[Public-list] Woodstove (was "Interior Paint")

Tue Jan 11 11:45:08 PST 2005

Don,

I had a chance to read the Interiors article you referenced in the current
DIY publication that refers to 3M Thinsulate and noticed that it has an R
value of 3 per inch which is about the same as fiberglass bat insulation.
For those considering using blanket type insulation, I would suggest also
looking into fiberglass duct insulation that can be had from any commercial
insulation retailer.  Our HVAC engineers specify the
stuff to line the interior of air-conditioning ducts where condensation
might
be a problem.  It is black, 1" thick and, to prevent airborne fibers, one
side is sealed.  The big advantage is the stuff is it's only about $0.30 per
square foot; disadvantage is one needs to wear a mask during install.

One added advantage of this type of insulation that is mentioned in the
article is acoustic absorption which helps deaden the reverberation (echo)
in spaces with predominately hard surfaces.  We designed a church with
hardwood floors that was a little too lively acoustically and got great
results by stapling duct liner under the pews.  No one knows it is there
and the space is almost perfect for preaching (but still a little to lively
for music).  Boat interiors usually have hard surfaces and increasing
acoustic absorption helps achieve that cozy, cocoon feeling below.  I have
thought of putting duct liner behind wood slats (with gaps between) on my
overhead but have to make sure it is real thin.  I am six feet tall and
there is precious little headroom in the main cabin.

All the best,

Roger
"PERFECT intentions," A30 #148

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Don Campbell" <dk.campbell at sympatico.ca>
To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2005 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: [Public-list] Woodstove (was "Interior Paint")

> For those of you who were asking about insulation,/paint and stoves, DIY
(Boat)
> just came in yesterday and has articles relating to both subjects in their
issue
> 2004-4 (www.diy-boat.com).
>     I thought you would appreciate their suggestion that if you want
> insulation,  then use insulation and the best material is now Thinsulate
(TMreg
> by 3M) See the article on cabin refurbishing for all the details. It comes
in 90
> foot rolls at either 60" or 30"  widths and is hydrophobic and not mildew
> suseptible since it is polypropylene.
>     With regards to heaters, the suggestion is that there be a carbon
monoxide
> monitor in the boat, a reasonable necessity for safety when using
furnaces, and
> which is a good idea even for just the engine usage,  specially when using
the
> boat in cold temperatures. Undoubtedly some of the technology from
spacecraft
> should be considered when it comes to insulating and controlling humidity
in
> conditions of  disparate temperatures within and without a vessel that has
> respiration occuring within.
> Don   #528
>
> Gordon Laco wrote:
>
> > Hi there -
> >
> > We've got a Dickenson Stainless Steel stove that we are very happy with.
I
> > bought it as a treat for myself while we were shooting M&C because I
wanted
> > to sail in the late fall once I finally got home.  Little did I know
that
> > only a few months later I would be stocking the British Davey stoves...
> >
> > The Dickenson stove has a front loading door which is fitted with a
sliding
> > shutter..when it is fixed in the up position you can see the fire
through
> > the exposed grill.  We usually leave just a crack showing so that you
can
> > see the orange flickering - makes the wine taste so much better, skin
tones
> > look so rich etc etc. (ahem, enough of that)
> >
> > The Davey stoves have a top loading set-up and the damper is below the
> > firebox so you cannot see the fire.  On the other hand they have a
clever
> > design that involves the flue coming down half-way in the fire box.
What
> > that means is you can load the thing up with coal or charcoal - and the
fuel
> > can't burn until it works its way done to the level of the flue. I guess
> > that is the sort of thing that everybody knew when small stoves were
fitted
> > in boats all the time but everybody has forgotten today.
> >
> > In the Dickenson we burn charcoal briquettes (not the volatile
self-priming
> > kind!) five or six at a time.  The stove burns for about 90 minutes.  I
> > guess it might burn longer if we put a damper shutter in the flue but I
am
> > leary of potential fumes in the boat so we keep an open draught despite
the
> > way that makes the fuel burn faster.
> >
> > Being stainless steel the Dickenson heats up faster - being cast iron
the
> > Davey stays hot longer - the Dickenson has built in all round heat
shields -
> > the Davey is smaller - and so on.
> >
> > Cheers - Gord #426 Surprise
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > On Jan 10, 2005, at 2:32 PM, Gordon Laco wrote:
> > >>
> > >> We fight condensation aboard #426 by keeping the forehatch
perpetually
> > >> cracked open and of course in the spring and fall the woodstove is
> > >> terrific
> > >> as dry heat.
> > >
> > > Hello Gordon,
> > >
> > > I'm still boat-shopping at this point, but I wanted to ask you about
> > > your woodstove.  Having lived with them for years in up-north cabins,
I
> > > love them and look forward to having one aboard a boat, despite the
> > > added "hassle" vs. a diesel or other type (although you sure can store
> > > a lot of BTUs in a gallon of diesel!).
> > >
> > > Just wondering which brand/type you have, and how you like it as
> > > compared to other wood stoves.  I've seen the "Sardine" model
available
> > > for purchase.  I wonder if there are any with the little glass door so
> > > you can view the flames?  My own "land" woodstoves never had them, but
> > > I have friends who do have the glass door and it is nice!
> > >
> > > Do you ever burn the old-fashioned charcoal?  I never even knew about
> > > it until I started researching boat wood-stoves.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > --- Rachel
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
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> >
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