[alberg30] Digest Number 353
Bill Newman
bnewman at netcom.ca
Tue Aug 17 07:21:09 PDT 1999
Re: Alberg 30???
This sounds like a Continental Folk Boat also built at Whitby Boat Works. It has a profile in and out off the water
identical to an Alberg 30 but, I believe, has an outboard rudder.
Bill Newman
Marion Rose III
alberg30 at onelist.com wrote:
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> There are 16 messages in this issue.
>
> Topics in today's digest:
>
> 1. Re: Rudder and Backing up
> From: Jack Vanderloo <jvdloo at cyberus.ca>
> 2. Re: Rudder and Backing up
> From: George Dinwiddie <gdinwiddie at min.net>
> 3. Non-skid deck refinishing
> From: Richard Hurt <rhurt at metro.net>
> 4. Re: Non-skid deck refinishing
> From: "Michael Stephano" <mundo at visi.net>
> 5. Re: Rudder and Backing up
> From: FINNUS505 at aol.com
> 6. Alberg 30 named Zevulun at Yachtworld.com
> From: FINNUS505 at aol.com
> 7. Re: Non-skid deck refinishing
> From: greg vandenberg <fashionguy at mailhost.kal.ameritech.net>
> 8. Re: Non-skid deck refinishing
> From: "mgrosh" <mgrosh at shore.intercom.net>
> 9. Re: Non-skid deck refinishing
> From: greg vandenberg <fashionguy at mailhost.kal.ameritech.net>
> 10. alberg 25 ???
> From: clouross at globetrotter.net
> 11. Seafurl: roller furlering
> From: alberg30 at interactive.net (Joe Tokarz)
> 12. sea furl: roller furling
> From: alberg30 at interactive.net (Joe Tokarz)
> 13. RE: Non-skid deck refinishing
> From: Rick Leach <RLeach at mbayaq.org>
> 14. Re: Rudder and Backing up
> From: Tom Sutherland <tomsu at uky.campuscw.net>
> 15. Re: alberg 25 ???
> From: Scott Wallace <tristan at one.net>
> 16. Re: alberg 25 ???
> From: RABBIT649 at aol.com
>
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 09:21:18 -0400
> From: Jack Vanderloo <jvdloo at cyberus.ca>
> Subject: Re: Rudder and Backing up
>
> Ahoy John,
>
> The secret to manoeuvring my A-30 out of any slip is the midships breast
> line and my ability to temporarily lash my helm in any position. First
> the tiller - I have installed a simple tiller clamping device near the
> base of the top of my tiller. Second, I have rigged a short 5/8" line
> on SS hooks athwartships between two eye straps on the outside of the
> opposite sides of the aft cockpit lockers - 6-8" inches forward of the
> bulkhead that carries the traveller and down about 2" from the locker
> seat level. This allows me to quickly lash the helm in any position.
>
> The midships cleat and breast line is critical. I adjust my other
> mooring lines so that my midships breast line is taken up as short as is
> absolutely possible. Two large fenders 2-3' fore and aft of that
> breastline ensure the boat will not go anywhere - even with all other
> lines cast off. When slipping my dock, I lash my helm in the direction
> I want to go, put the engine in slow astern and cast off all lines
> except my bow line. Off the boat, I then cast off the bow line - the
> boat is controllable via the shrouds. A short tug on the boat against
> the reverse pressure of the screw, while directing the stern in the
> desired direction, allows me to cast off the breastline. I hop aboard
> and unlash the helm and am off.
>
> I singlehand 95% of the time and this works extremely well. In heavy
> cross winds that tend to blow the bow off the dock before I can cast off
> the breastline, I have another neat arrangement that sounds difficult to
> explain but is fairly simple.
>
> I have run a 20 foot, or so, 5/16" line along the vertical face of my
> dock between two pad eyes. Running along it is a cheap block that
> remains on that 20' line "track". From that block a short 2 1/2 to 3'
> long 1/4" line runs to a 2" section of black 2" diameter PVC pipe. In
> that section, I've drilled a small hole to accommodate the knotted end
> of that 2 1/2 to 3' line from the block. Opposite the hole, I've cut
> the 2" section of 2" PVC pipe longitudinally, allowing me to snap it
> around my forward-most stanchion at its base. This arrangement keeps my
> bow parallel to (or "tied-to") the dock, even as as I start to move
> astern. When the bow passes the outboard end of the track, the block
> slams against the pad eye and jerks the PVC pipe and line off the
> stanchion. By that time, I am well underway to swinging into the
> fairway at my club.
>
> A mentioned, it's easier to rig than to explain. Would that this "third
> hand" were there when docking, but unfortunately it only works when
> slipping one's mooring!
>
> Cast off the lashed helm, adjust helm and throttle and
> "Bob's-your-uncle."
>
> Let me know if it works for you.
>
> Cheers
>
> Jack Vanderloo
> ALDABI
> KC 641
>
> John Bailey wrote:
>
> > A couple of questions. First, I have a new boat slip I have more
> > boats around. My other slip was on the outside of the marina and I
> > never had any trouble maneuvering because I had so much room. Now I
> > have to be careful. My question is how do you back an Alberg 30. I
> > don't seem to have any control as to which way it goes. I just go
> > whichever way the boat goes until I can put it in forward. Going in
> > circles is a little embarrassing. Is there a secret to this. Second
> > question, which I hope is not connected to the first, is about the
> > rudder post or the cap that fits the rudder to the tiller arm. There
> > is a lot of play. I've shimmed it up and that seems to work a bit.
> > There are two holes in the cap that face forward. It occurred to me
> > today that they look like holes that might have set screws to tighten
> > the fitting over the rudder post. There are no screws in the holes -
> > there never has been. Could this be part of my problem. If so, I
> > would think this could be a dangerous situation. John Bailey"Zevulun"
> > #33
>
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 09:47:34 -0400 (EDT)
> From: George Dinwiddie <gdinwiddie at min.net>
> Subject: Re: Rudder and Backing up
>
> Backing a full-keel boat is always a challenge. When you're
> going forward, the prop-wash flows over the rudder and gives
> you a lot of control. In reverse, it flows over the keel.
> Think of this as a very large rudder that you can't move
> and you'll understand the problem.
>
> First of all, use the prop-walk to your advantage if you
> can. When you engage reverse gear, the prop-walk will push
> the stern to port and turn the boat to starboard. If you
> can arrange wanting to turn in this direction, it'll be
> much easier. Otherwise, you should at least anticipate
> this tendency.
>
> Second, don't be too timid with the power. I'm not saying
> you want to roar around in close quarters, but the boat
> does need to be moving in order to steer it. If you try
> to be too subtle, you'll be at the mercy of the wind and
> current.
>
> Third, use a burst of forward gear to help the rudder
> work. Once you get the boat moving in reverse, you can
> give a short blast of forward, not enough to halt the boat
> but enough to push water over the rudder, to give you a
> little more control.
>
> Jack's given you some good suggestions for getting out of
> the slip. Warping a boat around with lines or using a
> midships spring are two time-honored techniques.
>
> As for play in the tiller head, take a close look and see where
> the play is occuring. If the yoke is sloppy on the rudder head,
> then shimming, redrilling for a larger bolt, or other techniques
> may provide some more life to the fitting. This has been discussed
> here previously, and you may want to look through the message
> archives (http://www.onelist.com/viewarchive.cgi?listname=alberg30).
>
> If the head fitting is slipping on the rudder post, you need to
> do something to stop that. Our fitting and rudder post have a
> keyway. I've also seen boats that depended on a friction fit.
> If that's the case on your boat, you may want to add either a
> keyway or a bolt to keep the fitting from slipping.
>
> - George
>
> --
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> George Dinwiddie gdinwiddie at min.net
> The gods do not deduct from man's allotted span those hours spent in
> sailing. http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Alberg30/
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 06:59:24 -0700
> From: Richard Hurt <rhurt at metro.net>
> Subject: Non-skid deck refinishing
>
> Hello All,
>
> Finally have a chunk of time to continue general overhall of hull 531.
> Deck is completely stripped of hardward, portlights etc, and presently
> sanding filling and preping deck for refinishing.
>
> My plan is to spray two coats of epoxy primer, then spray smooth areas of
> the deck with LPU (Interthane plus), then roll non-skid areas. I am
> sanding the nonskid areas almost smooth. Would like to spread the nonskid
> material onto the first coat of LPU before it dries, then encapsulate it
> with the second coat. Awlgrip's and Interthanes nonskid additives both look
> too fine to give a very substantial nonskid surface.
>
> Would appreciate any input out there concerning type of nonskid to use and
> how to apply it. Some of my boat neighbors in the yard are recommending
> speading sand onto a thin coat of epoxy resin, then painting over with the
> LPU.
>
> Rick Hurt
> Corinna, #531
>
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 10:56:05 -0400
> From: "Michael Stephano" <mundo at visi.net>
> Subject: Re: Non-skid deck refinishing
>
> I am a big fan of interthane plus. I have used it for deck and cabin top
> applications on my last boat and plan to re do the decks on present boat.
> put the first coat on the non skid areas with nothing in it and mix the non
> skid into the following coats. The nonskid compound absorbs the paint and
> wears very nicely when done this way. The powder may seem fine but the
> nonskid qualities were very good. The first time I did this was 8 years ago
> and the only reason I did it over was I was redoing the cabin top. There was
> no wear spots even in the high traffic areas after 8 years. A hint that a
> pro gave me was If you have mixed paint left over from the first coats to
> put it in the freezer. This stops the curing process and may be used in a
> day or so without any problems. Good luck.
>
> Michael Stephano
> Hopkins & Bro. General Store and the
> Eastern Shore Steamboat Co. Restaurant
> http://members.visi.net/~mundo/
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Richard Hurt <rhurt at metro.net>
> To: <alberg30 at onelist.com>
> Sent: Monday, August 16, 1999 9:59 AM
> Subject: [alberg30] Non-skid deck refinishing
>
> > From: Richard Hurt <rhurt at metro.net>
> >
> > Hello All,
> >
> > Finally have a chunk of time to continue general overhall of hull 531.
> > Deck is completely stripped of hardward, portlights etc, and presently
> > sanding filling and preping deck for refinishing.
> >
> > My plan is to spray two coats of epoxy primer, then spray smooth areas of
> > the deck with LPU (Interthane plus), then roll non-skid areas. I am
> > sanding the nonskid areas almost smooth. Would like to spread the nonskid
> > material onto the first coat of LPU before it dries, then encapsulate it
> > with the second coat. Awlgrip's and Interthanes nonskid additives both
> look
> > too fine to give a very substantial nonskid surface.
> >
> > Would appreciate any input out there concerning type of nonskid to use and
> > how to apply it. Some of my boat neighbors in the yard are recommending
> > speading sand onto a thin coat of epoxy resin, then painting over with the
> > LPU.
> >
> > Rick Hurt
> > Corinna, #531
> >
> >
> > --------------------------- ONElist Sponsor ----------------------------
> >
> > ONElist: the best place to EXPLORE topics, SHARE ideas, and
> > CONNECT to people with the same interests.
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
>
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 11:22:35 EDT
> From: FINNUS505 at aol.com
> Subject: Re: Rudder and Backing up
>
> Hi John, Master and Commander of Zevulun,
>
> I was browsing boats for sale lists as I always do, and I came across an
> Alberg 30 named Zevulun in one of them. Must be yours, and a list that has
> not been updated. She looks beautiful, in realy nice shape. Best of luck
> with her.
> There are photos of her interior, and here is my question; it looks like the
> inside of the cabin trunk is wood from these photos. Is this the case? Was
> there an option at Whitby for a more wooden interior finish when they were
> built, or did a subsequent owner add this? It looks great in the photo.
> The list is Yachtworld.com. I included it in another email to this list. If
> it is your Zevulun, then you probably want to get your boat removed from the
> for sale section!!
>
> Take care,
> Lee
>
> Stargazer #255
>
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 11:28:57 EDT
> From: FINNUS505 at aol.com
> Subject: Alberg 30 named Zevulun at Yachtworld.com
>
> <A
> HREF="http://search.yachtworld.com/search_yachts.cgi?new=Used&type=%28Sail%29&
> maker=Whitby&hull=FG&fuel=&engine_num=1&min_length=30&max_length=30&units=Feet
> &min_year=1962&max_year=1970&min_price=10000&max_price=20000&city=&state=®i
> on=&country=&date=&limit=30&company=">Click here: Yachts for Sale -- New and
> Used, Power and Sa...</A>
>
> This is the ad for an Alberg 30 named Zevulun.
>
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 12:28:05 -0400
> From: greg vandenberg <fashionguy at mailhost.kal.ameritech.net>
> Subject: Re: Non-skid deck refinishing
>
> Regarding your non skid Michael... We used with great success the method of
> foam rolling of Moron (sp) paint (2 part polyurathane) and spreading
> (sprinkling) Awlgrip's non skid over the surface to the point of excess. Then
> letting that dry ... then vacing off the excess and lastly incapsulating the
> surface in one or two more coats of paint. Awlgrip sells two grits and we used
> the goarser of the two. It was one of the most suscessful aspects of the whole
> repainting processes that we tackled on our own. I got a few more tips if you
> want them ... just give a shout.
>
> good luck - Greg
>
> \Michael Stephano wrote:
>
> > From: "Michael Stephano" <mundo at visi.net>
> >
> > I am a big fan of interthane plus. I have used it for deck and cabin top
> > applications on my last boat and plan to re do the decks on present boat.
> > put the first coat on the non skid areas with nothing in it and mix the non
> > skid into the following coats. The nonskid compound absorbs the paint and
> > wears very nicely when done this way. The powder may seem fine but the
> > nonskid qualities were very good. The first time I did this was 8 years ago
> > and the only reason I did it over was I was redoing the cabin top. There was
> > no wear spots even in the high traffic areas after 8 years. A hint that a
> > pro gave me was If you have mixed paint left over from the first coats to
> > put it in the freezer. This stops the curing process and may be used in a
> > day or so without any problems. Good luck.
> >
> > Michael Stephano
> > Hopkins & Bro. General Store and the
> > Eastern Shore Steamboat Co. Restaurant
> > http://members.visi.net/~mundo/
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Richard Hurt <rhurt at metro.net>
> > To: <alberg30 at onelist.com>
> > Sent: Monday, August 16, 1999 9:59 AM
> > Subject: [alberg30] Non-skid deck refinishing
> >
> > > From: Richard Hurt <rhurt at metro.net>
> > >
> > > Hello All,
> > >
> > > Finally have a chunk of time to continue general overhall of hull 531.
> > > Deck is completely stripped of hardward, portlights etc, and presently
> > > sanding filling and preping deck for refinishing.
> > >
> > > My plan is to spray two coats of epoxy primer, then spray smooth areas of
> > > the deck with LPU (Interthane plus), then roll non-skid areas. I am
> > > sanding the nonskid areas almost smooth. Would like to spread the nonskid
> > > material onto the first coat of LPU before it dries, then encapsulate it
> > > with the second coat. Awlgrip's and Interthanes nonskid additives both
> > look
> > > too fine to give a very substantial nonskid surface.
> > >
> > > Would appreciate any input out there concerning type of nonskid to use and
> > > how to apply it. Some of my boat neighbors in the yard are recommending
> > > speading sand onto a thin coat of epoxy resin, then painting over with the
> > > LPU.
> > >
> > > Rick Hurt
> > > Corinna, #531
> > >
> > >
> > > --------------------------- ONElist Sponsor ----------------------------
> > >
> > > ONElist: the best place to EXPLORE topics, SHARE ideas, and
> > > CONNECT to people with the same interests.
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > >
> >
> > --------------------------- ONElist Sponsor ----------------------------
> >
> > Congrats to our GROW TO GIVE winners, ZENtertainment & ROTInews!
> > http://www.onelist.com
> > Check out ONElist's latest program, FRIENDS & FAMILY. See homepage.
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 15:50:22 -0400
> From: "mgrosh" <mgrosh at shore.intercom.net>
> Subject: Re: Non-skid deck refinishing
>
> Hi Rick
>
> I brushed my decks in '96 with interlux brightside poly.and they are still
> looking good. First coat was just where the original not-so-nonskid was (the
> diamond pattern) 6 fl.oz. #2398 noskid to 1 qt. paint. second coat was
> flattened (to reduce glare) 1/2 pt. #2317 flatteneng agent to 1 qt. paint.
> The decks are somewhat harder to clean, but a whole lot safer, and the
> nonskid particles are not really noticable,visually.
>
> Michael
> #220
>
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 16:13:25 -0400
> From: greg vandenberg <fashionguy at mailhost.kal.ameritech.net>
> Subject: Re: Non-skid deck refinishing
>
> Sorry all... (specially Michael) The advice was for Richard!!!!!
>
> greg vandenberg wrote:
> >
> > From: greg vandenberg <fashionguy at mailhost.kal.ameritech.net>
> >
> > Regarding your non skid Michael... We used with great success the method of
> > foam rolling of Moron (sp) paint (2 part polyurathane) and spreading
> > (sprinkling) Awlgrip's non skid over the surface to the point of excess. Then
> > letting that dry ... then vacing off the excess and lastly incapsulating the
> > surface in one or two more coats of paint. Awlgrip sells two grits and we used
> > the goarser of the two. It was one of the most suscessful aspects of the whole
> > repainting processes that we tackled on our own. I got a few more tips if you
> > want them ... just give a shout.
> >
> > good luck - Greg
> >
> > \Michael Stephano wrote:
> >
> > > From: "Michael Stephano" <mundo at visi.net>
> > >
> > > I am a big fan of interthane plus. I have used it for deck and cabin top
> > > applications on my last boat and plan to re do the decks on present boat.
> > > put the first coat on the non skid areas with nothing in it and mix the non
> > > skid into the following coats. The nonskid compound absorbs the paint and
> > > wears very nicely when done this way. The powder may seem fine but the
> > > nonskid qualities were very good. The first time I did this was 8 years ago
> > > and the only reason I did it over was I was redoing the cabin top. There was
> > > no wear spots even in the high traffic areas after 8 years. A hint that a
> > > pro gave me was If you have mixed paint left over from the first coats to
> > > put it in the freezer. This stops the curing process and may be used in a
> > > day or so without any problems. Good luck.
> > >
> > > Michael Stephano
> > > Hopkins & Bro. General Store and the
> > > Eastern Shore Steamboat Co. Restaurant
> > > http://members.visi.net/~mundo/
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Richard Hurt <rhurt at metro.net>
> > > To: <alberg30 at onelist.com>
> > > Sent: Monday, August 16, 1999 9:59 AM
> > > Subject: [alberg30] Non-skid deck refinishing
> > >
> > > > From: Richard Hurt <rhurt at metro.net>
> > > >
> > > > Hello All,
> > > >
> > > > Finally have a chunk of time to continue general overhall of hull 531.
> > > > Deck is completely stripped of hardward, portlights etc, and presently
> > > > sanding filling and preping deck for refinishing.
> > > >
> > > > My plan is to spray two coats of epoxy primer, then spray smooth areas of
> > > > the deck with LPU (Interthane plus), then roll non-skid areas. I am
> > > > sanding the nonskid areas almost smooth. Would like to spread the nonskid
> > > > material onto the first coat of LPU before it dries, then encapsulate it
> > > > with the second coat. Awlgrip's and Interthanes nonskid additives both
> > > look
> > > > too fine to give a very substantial nonskid surface.
> > > >
> > > > Would appreciate any input out there concerning type of nonskid to use and
> > > > how to apply it. Some of my boat neighbors in the yard are recommending
> > > > speading sand onto a thin coat of epoxy resin, then painting over with the
> > > > LPU.
> > > >
> > > > Rick Hurt
> > > > Corinna, #531
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --------------------------- ONElist Sponsor ----------------------------
> > > >
> > > > ONElist: the best place to EXPLORE topics, SHARE ideas, and
> > > > CONNECT to people with the same interests.
> > > >
> > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > >
> > >
> > > --------------------------- ONElist Sponsor ----------------------------
> > >
> > > Congrats to our GROW TO GIVE winners, ZENtertainment & ROTInews!
> > > http://www.onelist.com
> > > Check out ONElist's latest program, FRIENDS & FAMILY. See homepage.
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > --------------------------- ONElist Sponsor ----------------------------
> >
> > You can WIN $100 to Amazon.com by starting a new list at ONElist.
> > Drawing is held each week through August 20. For details, go to
> > http://www.onelist.com/info/onereachsplash3.html
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 10
> Date: 17 Aug 1999 01:13:03 -0000
> From: clouross at globetrotter.net
> Subject: alberg 25 ???
>
> Hi, last summer we bought a boat and didnt know what kind of ship it was...
> After a lot of reaserch, we find out that it looks exacly like an Alberg.
> The problem is that Alberg dosent seem to ever desing an Alberg of 25 foot long !
> The boat come from Kingston. It weight 3.25 tons.
> Draft is 4.2 foot. It look like an Alberg 30...
> We were sure about the fact that it was an Alberg, but some people told us there are no Alberg 25 in this universe.
> If anybody could help us please do it...
> Confusely JF & Nadia
>
> couross at globetrotter.net
>
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 21:06:14 -0500
> From: alberg30 at interactive.net (Joe Tokarz)
> Subject: Seafurl: roller furlering
>
> In a recent mailer from West Marine, I saw an ad for Sea Furl SL roller
> furling. This brand is advertised at $464.25 for a 30' foot boat at 3/16"
> to 7/32" headstay wire diameter, and max headstay length 40.5'. Reg price
> @$600.
>
> Has anyone used this brand before, or had experience with it. Will this fit
> on an A30? Seems a decent price for headsail furling.
>
> Would appreciate your comments, or reference to any printed reviews.
>
> Thanks
>
> Joe #499
> "One Less Traveled"
>
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 21:08:03 -0500
> From: alberg30 at interactive.net (Joe Tokarz)
> Subject: sea furl: roller furling
>
> Christ, I spelled roller furling wrong. Too much beer. Maybe I should stay
> away from complicated mechanical devices. Sorry.
>
> Joe #499
> "One Less Traveled"
>
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 19:15:46 -0700
> From: Rick Leach <RLeach at mbayaq.org>
> Subject: RE: Non-skid deck refinishing
>
> Rick,
>
> I had very good success with the non-skid on my dinghy by following a
> suggestion I read about (either Don Casey or Dan Spurr). Their advice was to
> use model railroad ballast as the non-skid agent. This material is
> available at any good hobby shop and consists of uniform sized grit that
> modellers use to make railroad beds. It is available in several grades, I
> suggest the fine grit. I experimented with medium, and it made the surface
> too aggressive, fine was just right. It also comes in a variety of colors.
> I used a gray that was very close to my paint color so that as the paint
> wore and the peaks of the grit showed through, the appearance didn't suffer.
> The process I followed began with a coat of paint (or resin in your case,
> perhaps) on the area to be skid-proofed. While this is still wet, sprinkle
> the area very liberally with the grit. Once the paint had kicked, I swept
> up the loose grit (to use again), then gave the area a light vacuuming
> before I put down the final coats of paint. Be aware that a grit covered
> area has an enormous amount of surface area, I was surprised by how much
> paint it took to encapsulate all of the adhering grit. The end result has
> been in rough service for a number months and it still looks fresh. I plan
> to use this technique when I re-do the non-skid on #121. I hope this helps,
> good luck!
>
> Rick Leach
> Sugar Magnolia, #121
>
> > ----------
> > From: Richard Hurt[SMTP:rhurt at metro.net]
> > Reply To: alberg30 at onelist.com
> > Sent: Monday, August 16, 1999 6:59 AM
> > To: alberg30 at onelist.com
> > Subject: [alberg30] Non-skid deck refinishing
> >
> > From: Richard Hurt <rhurt at metro.net>
> >
> > Hello All,
> >
> > Finally have a chunk of time to continue general overhall of hull 531.
> > Deck is completely stripped of hardward, portlights etc, and presently
> > sanding filling and preping deck for refinishing.
> >
> > My plan is to spray two coats of epoxy primer, then spray smooth areas of
> > the deck with LPU (Interthane plus), then roll non-skid areas. I am
> > sanding the nonskid areas almost smooth. Would like to spread the nonskid
> > material onto the first coat of LPU before it dries, then encapsulate it
> > with the second coat. Awlgrip's and Interthanes nonskid additives both
> > look
> > too fine to give a very substantial nonskid surface.
> >
> > Would appreciate any input out there concerning type of nonskid to use and
> > how to apply it. Some of my boat neighbors in the yard are recommending
> > speading sand onto a thin coat of epoxy resin, then painting over with the
> > LPU.
> >
> > Rick Hurt
> > Corinna, #531
> >
> >
> > --------------------------- ONElist Sponsor ----------------------------
> >
> > ONElist: the best place to EXPLORE topics, SHARE ideas, and
> > CONNECT to people with the same interests.
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
>
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 14
> Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 22:21:51 +0100
> From: Tom Sutherland <tomsu at uky.campuscw.net>
> Subject: Re: Rudder and Backing up
>
> John ...
> I don't know if it is just me or if others on the list experience
> the same thing but your post always come to me in one long message
> running from left to right and in order to read what you have sent I
> must keep scrolling sideways ... it makes trying to make sense of what
> has been sent very challenging.
> I will admit I am no computer guru but am just wondering if anyone
> else has experienced this with John's posts. Any suggestions what can be
> done on my end to be remedy this ?
>
> Tom S
>
> PS ... My computer is an "iMac" by Apple.
>
> John Bailey wrote:
>
> > Part 1.1 Type: Plain Text (text/plain)
> > Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 15
> Date: Mon, 16 Aug 1999 22:41:09 +0000
> From: Scott Wallace <tristan at one.net>
> Subject: Re: alberg 25 ???
>
> Carl Alberg designed a diesel powered 25' the Cape Dory 25D...He did not design the gas powered Cape Dory 25...
>
> He also designed the Pearson Ariel and a few others that fall into this size range. Check out:
>
> http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Alberg30/designs.htm
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Scott Wallace, Spindrift, Pearson Electra 22' 6" LOD designed by Carl Alberg, built by Pearson of Bristol, R.I. 1963,
> displacement 3000#, draft full keel 3'
>
> clouross at globetrotter.net wrote:
>
> > From: clouross at globetrotter.net
> >
> > Hi, last summer we bought a boat and didnt know what kind of ship it was...
> >
> > After a lot of reaserch, we find out that it looks exacly like an Alberg.
> >
> > The problem is that Alberg dosent seem to ever desing an Alberg of 25 foot long !
> >
> > The boat come from Kingston. It weight 3.25 tons.
> >
> > Draft is 4.2 foot. It look like an Alberg 30...
> >
> > We were sure about the fact that it was an Alberg, but some people told us there are no Alberg 25 in this universe.
> >
> > If anybody could help us please do it...
> >
> > Confusely JF & Nadia
> >
> > couross at globetrotter.net
> >
> > --------------------------- ONElist Sponsor ----------------------------
> >
> > Show your ONElist SPIRIT!
> > http://www.onelist.com/store/tshirts.html
> > With a new ONElist SHIRT available through our website.
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 16
> Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 00:20:52 EDT
> From: RABBIT649 at aol.com
> Subject: Re: alberg 25 ???
>
> Dear JF and Nadia,
> I shopped extensively for a Cape Dory 10 years ago, although I never bought
> one. My understanding is that Alberg "designed" all of them in the sense that
> they scaled his hull specs up and down the line with minor modifications.
> I do know that the "D" in the so-called "25D" model was not a reference to
> the diesel engine, but to the cabin arrangement of having a bunk under the
> port side of the cockpit, which gave the plan view of the cabin a "d"
> configuration.
> The Pearson Electra shares its hull with the Pearson Ensign (a one-design
> racer/daysailer still popular from Jersey to Conn and in LI Sound) with a
> "main salon" cabin instead of a large non-bailing day sailing cockpit and a
> forward cuddy.
> The Sprite is a 22.5 ft cabin sloop similar to the Electra which predates it
> and is famous for Atlantic crossings and other feats of derring-do. Both were
> available with inboard or outboard
> The Triton is 28.5 ft with a dog leg cabin like the A30, A35 and A37. The
> Triton and A35 were built by Pearson. The 30 and 37 by Whitby
> I once saw a very pretty boat called a Pearson Commander, an Alberg design
> which was like a large Ensign: 28 ft with a big self bailing cockpit and a
> cuddy. The one I saw had an outboard well behind a big teak rudder.
> And the Ariel is 25.5 ft and would likely be available a lot cheaper than a
> Cape Dory, being 15 to 20 yrs older, but very solidly built with an internal
> lead ballast by Pearson (the Whitbys all had iron) and worth getting in
> shape. There were two versions, one with slightly more headroom in the rear
> cabin and it was available with gas inboard or an outboard well. My money is
> on your boat being an Ariel. Virtually a carbon copy of the 30 but smaller. A
> lot of fun to sail. I almost bought one.
> I remember when researching my Alberg 30 in the BUC book, there was mention
> of a few other under 30, over 25 boats which went by the name 'Alberg', but
> not built by Whitby or Pearson. Maybe Bristol? I don't remember. And there is
> an "Alberg 22", supposedly different than the Sprite or the Ensign/Electra,
> but I had not heard of that until I read it on this list. I don't remember
> who posted it, but he seemed to have a deep knowledge of things Alberg.
> Perhaps he will weigh in again. But very few of any of these were made.
> This is the extent of what I can remember off the top of my head.
> Paul Cicchetti
> Ashwagh #23
>
> In a message dated 8/16/99 10:37:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time, tristan at one.net
> writes:
>
> > From: Scott Wallace <tristan at one.net>
> >
> > Carl Alberg designed a diesel powered 25' the Cape Dory 25D...He did not
> > design the gas powered Cape Dory 25...
> >
> > He also designed the Pearson Ariel and a few others that fall into this
> size
> > range. Check out:
> >
> > http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Alberg30/designs.htm
> >
> > Good Luck,
> >
> > Scott Wallace, Spindrift, Pearson Electra 22' 6" LOD designed by Carl
> Alberg,
> > built by Pearson of Bristol, R.I. 1963,
> > displacement 3000#, draft full keel 3'
> >
> >
> >
> > clouross at globetrotter.net wrote:
> >
> > > From: clouross at globetrotter.net
> > >
> > > Hi, last summer we bought a boat and didnt know what kind of ship it
> was...
> >
> > >
> > > After a lot of reaserch, we find out that it looks exacly like an Alberg.
> > >
> > > The problem is that Alberg dosent seem to ever desing an Alberg of 25
> foot
> > long !
> > >
> > > The boat come from Kingston. It weight 3.25 tons.
> > >
> > > Draft is 4.2 foot. It look like an Alberg 30...
> > >
> > > We were sure about the fact that it was an Alberg, but some people told
> us
> > there are no Alberg 25 in this universe.
> > >
> > > If anybody could help us please do it...
> > >
> > > Confusely JF & Nadia
> > >
> > > couross at globetrotter.net
>
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________________________________________
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