[alberg30] charging

Dan Sternglass dans at stmktg.com
Mon Aug 2 07:46:24 PDT 1999


From: Dan Sternglass <dans at stmktg.com>

Rap1208 at aol.com wrote:
> 
> From: Rap1208 at aol.com
> 
> Tossing this out to see if anyones else has had the problem.  My system
> stoped charging.  I replaced the voltage regulator ($45 from Direct Electric,
> South River rd, Harrison Twp, Mich) but system is still not charging.  Could
> replacing the ampmeter correct that?  Help.  Russ Pfeifer  Ca Va

Just had to have the Prestolite alternator on my Atomic-4 rebuilt, got
it back in last wek. Cost about $100, including new bearings, brushes,
and a new (rebuilt rotor). The old rotor had an intermittent short.

Ammeters (no "p") don't usually fail open. In any case, you can check
the output right at the alternator with a voltmeter, at no load it will
be about 14 volts. See below, you can also see if the "field" winding is
getting power.

An "auto electric" shop that rebuilds alternators can test the
alternator and regulator together and under load, and make repairs.
There are many possible failure modes of alternators and regulators, I
won't elaborate them. If you have a voltmeter, you can see if the field
is being energized (alternator fuse or regulator failure), o/w its
almost certainly the alternator. On the A-4, its easy to remove. Don't
know what soret of engine you have... Depending on what's available, a
rebuilt alternator might be quicker, but it was a lot cheaper for me to
get the unit reparied, even though I had to wait for parts.

I also installed a tiny panel-mount LCD digital voltmeter (about $30.00)
next to the electrical panel, so I can get some sense of the charge
state of the batteries. I have a good source for those if you are
interested. Draws only 3 mA.

--Dan Sternglass
dans at stmktg.com

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