[alberg30] Rudder and Backing up

[Jack Vanderloo]

Ahoy John,

The secret to manoeuvring my A-30 out of any slip is the midships breast
line and my ability to temporarily lash my helm in any position.  First
the tiller - I have installed a simple tiller clamping device near the
base of the top of my tiller.  Second, I have rigged a short 5/8" line
on SS hooks athwartships between two eye straps on the outside of the
opposite sides of the aft cockpit lockers - 6-8" inches forward of the
bulkhead that carries the traveller and down about 2" from the locker
seat level.  This allows me to quickly lash the helm in any position.

The midships cleat and breast line is critical.  I adjust my other
mooring lines so that my midships breast line is taken up as short as is
absolutely possible.  Two large fenders 2-3' fore and aft of that
breastline ensure the boat will not go anywhere - even with all other
lines cast off.  When slipping my dock, I  lash my helm in the direction
I want to go, put the engine in slow astern and cast off all lines
except my bow line.  Off the boat, I then cast off the bow line - the
boat is controllable via the shrouds.  A short tug on the boat against
the reverse pressure of the screw, while directing the stern in the
desired direction, allows me to cast off the breastline.  I hop aboard
and unlash the helm and am off.

I singlehand 95% of the time and this works extremely well.  In heavy
cross winds that tend to blow the bow off the dock before I can cast off
the breastline, I have another neat arrangement that sounds difficult to
explain but is fairly simple.

I have run a 20 foot, or so, 5/16" line along the vertical face of my
dock between two pad eyes.  Running along it is a cheap block that
remains on that 20' line "track".  From that block a short 2 1/2 to 3'
long 1/4" line runs to a 2" section of black 2" diameter PVC pipe.  In
that section, I've drilled a small hole to accommodate the knotted end
of that 2 1/2 to 3' line from the block.  Opposite the hole, I've cut
the 2" section of 2" PVC pipe longitudinally, allowing me to snap it
around my forward-most stanchion at its base.  This arrangement keeps my
bow parallel to (or "tied-to") the dock, even as as I start to move
astern.  When the bow passes the outboard end of the track, the block
slams against the pad eye and jerks the PVC pipe and line off the
stanchion.  By that time, I am well underway to swinging into the
fairway at my club.

A mentioned, it's easier to rig than to explain.  Would that this "third
hand" were there when docking, but unfortunately it only works when
slipping one's mooring!

Cast off the lashed helm, adjust helm and throttle and
"Bob's-your-uncle."

Let me know if it works for you.

Cheers

Jack Vanderloo
ALDABI
KC 641

John Bailey wrote:

>  A couple of questions.  First, I have a new boat slip I have more
> boats around.  My other slip was on the outside of the marina and I
> never had any trouble maneuvering because I had so much room.  Now I
> have to be careful.  My question is how do you back an Alberg 30.  I
> don't seem to have any control as to which way it goes.  I just go
> whichever way the boat goes until I can put it in forward.  Going in
> circles is a little embarrassing.  Is there a secret to this. Second
> question, which I hope is not connected to the first, is about the
> rudder post or the cap that fits the rudder to the tiller arm.  There
> is a lot of play.  I've shimmed it up and that seems to work a bit.
> There are two holes in the cap that face forward.  It occurred to me
> today that they look like holes that might have set screws to tighten
> the fitting over the rudder post.  There are no screws in the holes -
> there never has been.  Could this be part of my problem.  If so, I
> would think this could be a dangerous situation. John Bailey"Zevulun"
> #33
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