[alberg30] Toe rail replacement

[Alan P. Kefauver]

From: "Alan P. Kefauver" <apk2 at home.com>

I am a woodworker with a full shop. I have just finished building all new hatches, locker tops, (top loader ice box too) and companion way boards for Andante. I used birch marine ply for the centers and then framed the edges with solid teak, Before putting on the edging I laminated teak veneer on the ply. The edges are screwed and glued and then the holes are bunged. The wood is sealed with diluted Waterlox Marine and then four full coats with a light sanding in between. The companion way hatch is laminated 1/8" ply bent over a form, then vennered and framed. This all took about 18 hours of shop time and about $300 in materials.

I figure it will take about 18 board feet or more of teak ($400) and about 30 hours of work to do the toe rails.  To do this you will need a sliding compound mitre saw, a jointer, maybe a planer, a stationary belt sander and a bandsaw. Teak dulls sawblades about as fast as anything too. Wear long pants, long sleeve shirts, and a -good- dust mask or respirator. Teak dust is toxic to the lungs and often irritates the skin. If you do it by hand, (hand plane, xcut saw, chisels), I can't imagine the amount of labor required. Even though I can do this, I am seriously considering having someone else do it. If you get a price from someone maybe we can get a group buy up?

Friend of mine made his seat locker tops on a Pearson from Scan Teak Dining Room Table tops he bought at yard sales and flea markets. 4'X8' Teak veneered ply is about $260 a sheet. Used Scan 3'X5" tables can be had for $20-$50 a piece, and if old enough the legs are solid teak!
Cheers 
Alan 
Andante #152
*********** REPLY SEPARATOR  ***********

On 9/14/1999 at 12:13 AM RABBIT649 at aol.com wrote:

>From: RABBIT649 at aol.com
>
>Dear Tom / Lee,
>     I was just looking at Ashwagh's toerail and realizing that I can't avoid 
>that job much longer. 
>    And it is scary. It's cut to match the deck camber, it's bent in 3 
>dimensions to match the sheer line and the plan view curvature of the hull (I 
>don't know the terminology for that), it flares out as it approaches the bow 
>(ie, changes its angle in relation to the deck), it increases in height as 
>you go forward and it's scarfed, mitered and notched. You could waste a lot 
>of time and teak or go very crazy getting those joints right if you don't 
>know what you're doing and I certainly don't. 
>    There are a couple of reference works I have somewhere that describe a 
>technique (I'll look), but I'd love to learn this hands on from somebody. 
>Does anyone know of an "Ancillary Joinerwork for Fiberglass Boats" course?
>    Let's keep this thread going a while. Everybody's going to have this 
>problem sooner or later.
>paul.
>Ashwagh #23
>
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