[alberg30] Please remove

Dave Olson Dave_Olson at Starkey.com
Mon Feb 28 12:55:15 PST 2000 

From: "Dave Olson" <Dave_Olson at Starkey.com>



alberg30 at onelist.com wrote:

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> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> There are 4 messages in this issue.
>
> Topics in today's digest:
>
>       1. main wiring harness
>            From: "alberg30" <alberg30 at interactive.net>
>       2. Re: main wiring harness
>            From: Bob Johns <bobjns at nais.com>
>       3. Mansfield TDX
>            From: "Horton, Ross G." <rhorton at pwcgov.org>
>       4. Re: main wiring harness
>            From: Rap1208 at aol.com
>
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 1
>    Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 08:29:01 -0600
>    From: "alberg30" <alberg30 at interactive.net>
> Subject: main wiring harness
>
> To the group:
>
> I was considering replacing some of the wiring from the instrument panel in the cockpit to the master electrical panel aboard #499. This would include engine wiring, the running lights switch, starter wires, etc.
>
> Is there a commercial wiring harness that can be bought and installed? Or do I just replace the wires, creating my own wiring harness. I thought if there was one already made up, it would save time on the installation and make things really organized. Otherwise, I can run the wires myself.
>
> Also, how about replacing the instrument panel with a wood panel? My panel in the cockpit is made of metal, of some sort, and certainly doesn't seal watertight, nor look well. It looks like its been beat to hell. Options for replacing this?
>
> Thanks in advance:
>
> Joe #499
> "One Less Traveled"
>
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 2
>    Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 10:15:29 -0500
>    From: Bob Johns <bobjns at nais.com>
> Subject: Re: main wiring harness
>
> >Also, how about replacing the instrument panel with  a wood panel? My
> >panel in the cockpit is made of metal, of some sort, and  certainly
> >doesn't seal water tight, nor look well. It looks like its been beat to
> >hell. Options for replacing this?   Thanks in advance:   Joe #499 "One
> >Less Traveled"
>
> Joe,
>
> I did a complete rewiring job on Wind Call #397 five years ago. The cockpit
> instrument panel was replaced with a lexan panel. I spray painted the new
> panel on the backside with a flat black paint. The result is a painted
> panel that looks glossy (in spite of using the flat paint) but since the
> paint is inside it doesn't get scratched and it is protected from the
> weather. Much better than wood IMHO.
>
> I got rid of the old mechanical instruments and went electrical on
> everything. I added an expanded scale voltmeter and fuel gauge. I retained
> the separate starter switch even though the new ignition switch has a
> starter circuit (turn the key past the ignition 'on' position to crank the
> engine). The reason I didn't use the starter circuit in the  ignition
> circuit is that I have heard of cases where the key switch stuck in the
> 'start' position and the starter did not disengage with the result that the
> starter burned out.
>
> The panel  has a large tachometer in the middle of the panel and is
> surrounded by the Temperature, oil pressure, fuel gauges and expanded scale
> voltmeter. The fit was tight with the instruments just about touching each
> other, and I had  to trim the fiberglass where the panel mounts just a
> little.
>
> The running  light switch on Wind Call has two 'on' positions. The first
> position turns on the just the running lights but not the steaming light or
> the instrument panel lights. The second position turns on all of them. I
> assume that your switch is connected the same way, but if not, I would
> suggest that you wire the new one this way.
>
> I rewired the whole boat, added a 100 amp alternator, new main electrical
> panel and an ampere-hour meter, which can read voltage to 0.01 volts and
> current to 0.1 amperes. The lighting wiring carries separate returns for
> each lamp. ((Nothing dims when you turn on extra lights!)
>
> If I can give  you any more information, let me know.
>
> Regards,
>         Bob Johns, Wind Call #397
>
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 3
>    Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 13:15:23 -0500
>    From: "Horton, Ross G." <rhorton at pwcgov.org>
> Subject: Mansfield TDX
>
> Guy-
>         I'm not the one who started the thread on the Mansfield TDX
> sanitation system but I have one in my boat which is in need of some
> attention.  At present, it is serving only as a small holding tank.  If
> no-one else wants the Owners Manual I would love to have it or a copy of it.
> I'll be happy to pay for copying and postage.  I attempted to send this
> offline, by e-mail directly to you, but could not get it delivered to the
> address in the header.
>         My snail mail address is
> Ross Horton
> 14493 Sentry Road
> Nokesville, Virginia 20181
>
>         Thanks for the help.
>
> Ross G. Horton
> Delphi #40
>
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 4
>    Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 22:42:06 EST
>    From: Rap1208 at aol.com
> Subject: Re: main wiring harness
>
> Joe, when I bought my boat, the instrument panel glass was cracked.  the
> first winter I puled it out, and took it home,  I dismanteled it, (not too
> hard,) and removed the broken glass.  I replaced it with plastic,  which has
> surrived so far.  The panel did look tired.  I painted it a neat gold color,
> while the instruments were out.  I carefully went over the black part with a
> sharpie pen, and wide marker, and made the black dark again.  I also replaced
> the burned out voltage regulater.  Bought a cheap unit at the auto parts
> store, took it apart, trimed the face to size and installed it in the panel.
> I also used a little caulk on reasembly. When I put the whole thing back
> together it looked so much better.
> Also, on this subject, the 1st summer I made a "U" shaped of teak that went
> around the panel on front, back and top.  It's about 1" thick, and protects
> the switches, and choak knob.  No one has kicked the knob off after that.
> Always something to do on a boat.
>
> Russ  251
>
> _______________________________________________________________________________
> _______________________________________________________________________________


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