[alberg30] main wiring harness

[alberg30]

From: "alberg30" <alberg30 at interactive.net>

Bob and Russ:

Thanks for comments on the cockpit instrument panel. Your notes are helpful.
Bob, you mentioned that you rewired the panel; did you use a harness or did
make up the wires by yourself? On the back of the panel, did you install a
protective cover? What was it made of? I was thinking of fabricating one out
of light fiberglass, but maybe its not necessary.

I like the idea of painted Lexan, or even refinishing the panel as is. I
already have enough wood to take care of in various parts of the boat. My
main concern is to waterproof the panel slightly (Have you tried a gasket of
some sort?--or just caulking?), protect the throttle knob, and of course
spruce it up.  My reasoning, I'm going to be painting the deck and all my
wood is beautiful, may as well finish out the cockpit.

If no one has found a suitable wiring harness, I think I'll run my own
wires, through a pvc conduit attached under the cockpit near the gas tank
down in the vicinity a bus bar that liaisons with my main elect panel and
engine. Did you guys use tined wire for rewiring? I have previously used
stranded copper in some applications and not noticed any problems. But maybe
thats a time thing.--Just a matter of time.

Also  for Russ, my volt meter is also burned out. Do you recall the make and
model you used to replace yours?

Thanks for your comments:

Joe #499
"One Less Traveled"
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Johns <bobjns at nais.com>
To: <alberg30 at onelist.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: [alberg30] main wiring harness


> From: Bob Johns <bobjns at nais.com>
>
>
> >Also, how about replacing the instrument panel with  a wood panel? My
> >panel in the cockpit is made of metal, of some sort, and  certainly
> >doesn't seal water tight, nor look well. It looks like its been beat to
> >hell. Options for replacing this?   Thanks in advance:   Joe #499 "One
> >Less Traveled"
>
> Joe,
>
> I did a complete rewiring job on Wind Call #397 five years ago. The
cockpit
> instrument panel was replaced with a lexan panel. I spray painted the new
> panel on the backside with a flat black paint. The result is a painted
> panel that looks glossy (in spite of using the flat paint) but since the
> paint is inside it doesn't get scratched and it is protected from the
> weather. Much better than wood IMHO.
>
> I got rid of the old mechanical instruments and went electrical on
> everything. I added an expanded scale voltmeter and fuel gauge. I retained
> the separate starter switch even though the new ignition switch has a
> starter circuit (turn the key past the ignition 'on' position to crank the
> engine). The reason I didn't use the starter circuit in the  ignition
> circuit is that I have heard of cases where the key switch stuck in the
> 'start' position and the starter did not disengage with the result that
the
> starter burned out.
>
> The panel  has a large tachometer in the middle of the panel and is
> surrounded by the Temperature, oil pressure, fuel gauges and expanded
scale
> voltmeter. The fit was tight with the instruments just about touching each
> other, and I had  to trim the fiberglass where the panel mounts just a
> little.
>
> The running  light switch on Wind Call has two 'on' positions. The first
> position turns on the just the running lights but not the steaming light
or
> the instrument panel lights. The second position turns on all of them. I
> assume that your switch is connected the same way, but if not, I would
> suggest that you wire the new one this way.
>
> I rewired the whole boat, added a 100 amp alternator, new main electrical
> panel and an ampere-hour meter, which can read voltage to 0.01 volts and
> current to 0.1 amperes. The lighting wiring carries separate returns for
> each lamp. ((Nothing dims when you turn on extra lights!)
>
> If I can give  you any more information, let me know.
>
> Regards,
> Bob Johns, Wind Call #397
>
>
>
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