[alberg30] brightwork

[FINNUS505 at aol.com]

From: FINNUS505 at aol.com

Hey Sanders,
Varnish-a topic near and dear to my heart!!!!!!!!!

I've used sikkens-put on three coats onto wooded down teak toerails and hand 
rails.  It looks pretty, but does 'muddy' the grain abit.  On my application, 
I had to redo some areas mid-season.  I think it was because there was some 
old teak oil left in the wood in those areas, and that interefered with 
adhesion of the sikkens.  I was not thrilled with the sikkens.  to get a good 
job, you have to get down to clean wood, just as if you were going to 
varnish, and then you have to put on three coats, which they say you do not 
have to sand inbetween coats, but roughing up with 3M scotch brite will not 
hurt.
I feel if the prep work is so similar, you might as well varnish already. 4-6 
healthy coats of Z Spar Captains Varnish lasts the season.  At seasons end, 
light sand, and put on two new coats, and the varnish work is done for a year 
if the boat is covered for the winter.  Like the sikkens, if you get a full 
thickness ding, a light sanding of the ding, and a couple of coats of varnish 
there will preserve the wood.  And the varnish is definitely more beautiful.  
Rather than muddy the grain, varnish highlights it. It's not that much more 
work, the expense, 15-20 dollars a quart, depending on where you go, is about 
the same, and the results are worth it.
Are you a varnisher?  If not, I'll be glad to share my techniques with you. I 
go for a pragmatic longevity of the coat and realistic ease of application, 
as opposed to the plate glass, pro look.
Hope this helps,
Lee
Stargazer #255

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