[alberg30] (unknown)

[finnus505 at aol.com]

Hi Alan,
Many of the fiber/resin sheaves used originaly for the main halyards on our 
Alberg 30's have worn enough that the subsequint play is wide enough to let 
the wire halyard jump the sheave, usualy at a tme when the tension on the 
haalyard is varying alot, like when you are reefing, or trying to get the 
main down.  Can be dangerous.

You said it is the aft sheave that allows the halyard to jump and jam; 
Replacing the big, single sheave with two smaller one's, one forward and one 
aft, was an attempt to fix this problem.  There is an article with diagrams 
in the sMaintainance manual. If the new holes are drilled perfectly square, 
and the clearnce between the sheave and the aluminum guides in the mast is 
abzolutely correct, this solution should work.

My rig was the original 1967 big sheave, running ingetween two aluminum 
retaining plates. The bolt that held the tangs for the upper shrouds had a SS 
tube on it, (i cant remember its exact name right now.retaining tube, or 
something similar.  Its purpose was to act as a friction reducer for the 
sheave, as well as a spacer to keep the tangs for the upper shrouds 
consistent.
I hate when a halyard jams, so looking at the condition of this worn sheave, 
the heavily oxidised and pitted retaining plates on either side of the 
sheave, and the fact that the /retaining tube/ was solidly frozen to the bolt 
within, I decided to change the whole rig.  parts from an annapolis rigger 
would cost about 400, with the retaining plates and new sheave annodized.
A friend of mine on the internet had a Tarton 27, which was built with the 
exact same mainhaalyard sheave arrangement. This friend lead me to  Joe, who 
work s at the services dept, which is the repair section for Tartan Yachts in 
Ohio. told me he would make a new sheave out of an industrial polymer used in 
commercial cranes, a new SS bolt, a new retaining tube, and new aluminum 
retaining plates for the sheave, delivered to NY, for a little over a hundred 
dollars.   We agreed that anodizing the retaining plates is less than 
necessary, as the friction with the sheave and th halyard rubs a good deal of 
it off anyway.  I mailed him all the origianl parts to help him make his 
templates, and just in cas there were any unusaul diversions from what he 
normaly saw, and  said go, and in a couple of week the stuff was delivered, 
all as promised.  I had asked Joe to make the retaining plates twice as thick 
as the old ones, and so the slots where they sit had ot be widned a bit, but 
workind very carefuly and slowly with a 4" 10000rpm grinder, the job came out 
beautiful.  No spaces for the halyard to jump the sheave.   The SS bolt, and 
the retaining tube fit as if Joe had been in NY and did the final hand 
fitting himself.  I also changed to a rope halyard.  My original SS halyard 
had lots of meathooks, and I never liked the idea that because of the 
location of the wire to rop splice, the shackle could never rach the deck, or 
the waater to lift something in an emergency.  I beleive I used 1/2 inch sta 
set double braid, and spliced the shackle for the main sail in place.  With 
the polished aluminun retaining plates, I have not seen chafe as a problem.  
Could you get by with a more expensive, 3/8 line, to really prevent chaffe?  
Probably.  If I see chave kreeping up, I will try it.  In the meantime,when 
putting the boat away, I belay the shackle end of the mainhalyard to a canvas 
sling right in the center of the boom, to keep the halyard right in the 
center of the sheave fitting, and avoid any chaffe, and I belay the forward 
end of the halyard to the stemhead fitting, for the same reason.

I don't have Joe's number here, but if you call Tartan Yachts, in Ohio, and 
ask for the Service dept, I/m sure they will lead you to him.

Hope this helps.
Hey, in your travels, have you come across a source for the pawls on the old, 
original south coast winches our boats have?  When I bought my boat the tops 
of the winches spun in both directions.  I figured it was salt spray, and old 
grease keeping the pawls from bounccing back.  But when I opened the winches, 
I found no pawls on the two genny winches, or the main sheet winch!!!    The 
mast winches needed cleaning, but had all the parts.
I figure some poor bloke kicked the box over the side when was cleaning the 
pawls and springs. He was able to find enough of the pawls to fill the bottom 
runs, and so use the winches as snubbing winches.  There were two Barient 
#22's in the cockpit too, obviously added later, and with them, I guess he 
felt he had no great need for the 'antiques.'  Still, if I could find the 
pawls and springs, it woulld make me happy.  It it's on the boat, it should 
work!

Good luck, alan,
Lee
Stargazer #255

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Make your old place like like new ...Win A Handyman!
http://click.egroups.com/1/6306/10/_/476031/_/962800418/
------------------------------------------------------------------------


 962800414.0