[alberg30] Cockpit Coamings

[Brian Zinser]

I too am in the process of stripping off old varnish and have finished my
hatches.  I will be doing the coaming when the boat is in the water (May
13).  when I did my hatches this winter, I used a two part wood bleach
product I purchased at Menards (a Home Depot type place here in the
Midwest).  This stuff really worked.  I brushed part one on with a foam
brush and followed with part 2.  Let dry for 24 hours and lightly sand off
any residue.  I have used both a bleach/water mixture and oxalic acid and I
recommend this stuff over both.  I will try to post the brand name tomorrow.

Brian Zinser
Manana #134

-----Original Message-----
From: jpgrathwol at aol.com [mailto:jpgrathwol at aol.com]
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2000 5:30 PM
To: a30 at egroups.com; alberg30 at egroups.com
Subject: [alberg30] Cockpit Coamings


Hello list.

I've been reading the list since December and finally have cause to ask the
group some questions.  As a new A30 owner I've learned a lot just by
reading.

I have recently stripped the years of varnish from the cockpit coamings
which
I intend to refinish in Cetol or Armada.  What I've found however is that
the
underside of the inboard side of each coaming has a gap of 1/4" to 3/8"
between the teak and the deck.  This gap is wider at the stern.  On the
outside there is a 1/4 round piece of trim which covers the gap if it even
exists on the outboard side.  Should this gap be caulked prior to
refinishing?  Should it be left open to allow trapped moisture to dry,
ultimately preventing more rot than caulking which would trap any moisture
that did get past the caulk?  If yes to caulk which caulk?

Second, any thoughts on bleaching teak?  I have read of a procedure using
oxalic acid.  A wooden boat guy at my boatyard used household bleach on his
mast after stripping it bare prior to re-varnishing.  I am looking for the
procedure that works the best and is least likely to result in my gumming it
up.

Thanks in advance.

John Grathwol
A30 #88
Dovekie

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