[Alberg30] Woodwork

T. Kevin Blanc tkevinblanc at yahoo.com
Mon Oct 30 07:38:19 PST 2000


  +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
  | This is it!  Monday October 31 is the last day. Quick, right now! |
  | Go to http://www.myaffiliateprogram.com/u/sailnet/t.asp?id=1066   |
  | and use the e-coupon code APMK18 for your discount.               |
  +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
I made new spreaders out of very good quality white
oak heart wood. I bandsawed the old ones they were
Douglass fir and actually in fine shape 1/32 of an
inch below the surface) in half the long way to use as
a template.

It was a very easy job.

I think they make most tillers glue ups out of teak
and holly, don't they? 

 
--- Robert Kirk <kirk at neptune.gsfc.nasa.gov> wrote:
>  
>
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
>   | This is it!  Monday October 31 is the last day.
> Quick, right now! |
>   | Go to
>
http://www.myaffiliateprogram.com/u/sailnet/t.asp?id=1066
>   |
>   | and use the e-coupon code APMK18 for your
> discount.               |
>  
>
+-------------------------------------------------------------------+
> 
> >   Does anyone have any experience bleaching out
> the dark spots water causes
> >when it gets under varnish? I have read some
> references about bleaching; 1.
> >do you bleach just the spots, or is there a product
> for treating the whole
> >piece? 2. Is the result of even color, or ,
> basically, the dalmation effect
> >I now have? 3. Do you think the process weakens the
> wood? It's my (mahogony,
> >I think) tiller I want to tackle.
> >
> >Thanks in advance
> >Michael
> >Checkmate #220
> 
> You can bleach wood with oxalic acid pretty well,
> but to make the color 
> even, you need to do the whole thing. Bleaching
> usually does a good job. If 
> you don't want to refinish the whole thing you can
> sand the dark spots out 
> and touch up. A little stain to match the rest of
> the tiller might work, 
> but I'd do the whole tiller myself; it isn't that
> big a job.
> 
> My tiller is delaminating, too. I'll either reglue &
> refinish it this 
> winter or build a new one, which might be a nice
> project.
> 
> Mine is a nice double curved tiller which might be
> ash (?) on the outside 
> with a mahogany (?) core.  Does anyone know is there
> is an Alberg 
> "standard" tiller shape, or can I be fancy free in
> designing a new 
> one?  I'd probably make a new one shorter since I
> don't need all that 
> mechanical advantage, and bent up higher so the
> autotiller is more 
> level.   I've noticed a few replacement tillers for
> sale at Fawcetts which 
> might fit, but  I can make a better one myself.  Any
> ideas as to what a 
> good laminate be made from?  Ash, oak, mahogany,
> etc?
> 
> Also,  has anyone built a new set of spreaders?
> Might be another 
> woodworking project fore the Winter. I guess it
> would be pretty 
> straightforward. I'll drop my mast this season and
> see how good/bad the 
> spreaders are. May not even need anything. Every
> coupe of years I spread 
> some glop across the spreader tops and no problems
> yet (knock wood).
> 
> Bob Kirk
> Isobar #181
> 
> _______________________________________________
>  Public-list mailing list --
> Public-list at alberg30.org
> 
> http://www.alberg30.org/mailman/listinfo/public-list
>  To unsubscribe: email to
> Public-list-request at alberg30.org
>  Include command "unsubscribe <password>" in subject
> or body.
>  Use command "help" for more options.

_______________________________________________
 Public-list mailing list -- Public-list at alberg30.org
 http://www.alberg30.org/mailman/listinfo/public-list
 To unsubscribe: email to Public-list-request at alberg30.org
 Include command "unsubscribe <password>" in subject or body.
 Use command "help" for more options.

 972920299.0


More information about the Public-List mailing list