[Alberg30] Fixing bad decks

[Bruce Johnson]

Still looking for recommendations for someone to do recoring work on an A30.  Would try and do myself after reading all the great advice on this list serve, but it is all I can do to even get out on the boat, let alone budget time for major project. Alternatively, does anyone know of a web site where tradesman might advertise services for  this type in work in area?  

>>> timmins at optonline.net 08/08/01 04:03PM >>>
I used a 3/16 drill bit. Drill the holes through the top layer of glass
only. I did mine freehand but the best suggestion I've heard is to use
pegboard as a template for hole spacing.Once all the holes are drilled, then
you have to dry out the core. When I did mine, the boat was in a shed so I
just let it sit with minimal heat under the deck. Once your sure the core is
dry, then it's time to fill it. I've heard to use slightly thickened epoxy.
I used regular west system with no additives. My mind said it's thinner so
it'll run through the spaces easier. I've also met one pro who does the same
for the same reason. So, to follow the method I used , you will need Epoxy
resin and appropriate hardener, a supply of syringes for injecting the
epoxy, a box of brand new #10 sheet metal screws(about 1" & Phillips head is
my choice), rags and acetone for cleaning up, and a helper to mix epoxy
while your injecting it.
    Mix epoxy, fill syringe, start at one end of the hole pattern and inject
inject inject. When epoxy starts coming out of adjoining holes, put a screw
in that hole and keep on injecting. Try to keep the screws to minimum
penetration since later on you'll have to fill all those screw holes. Only
use NEW screws straight out of the NEW box. You need to have that light coat
of manufacturing oil on them to keep the epoxy from sticking to them. Make a
real effort to keep the epoxy from pooling on the deck (saves clean up work
later). Once you start the injection process, keep going until the deck is
full. That way there are no bonding issues to deal with and no worries about
amine blush in the core. Let the epoxy cure before you remove the screws.
Yes, they will come out easy. At this point your deck is solid with all
those little shallow holes in it. fill the holes and refinish the deck.
  I used this method even though my entire foredeck need recoring. Hindsight
says I should have pulled the top skin, re&re the core and reinstalled the
top skin. The drill and fill method did work and to this day, I don't have a
 problem where I did this. In fact, I'm considering buying a bigger boat
with a similar problem (it needs recoring on the deck also). It's not a
particularly hard problem to solve.
  Since you did ask How Many, I drilled 1400+ holes in my foredeck and
slightly down the sides.
   To everyone with solid decks, PLEASE rebed everything on your deck. If
yours is an A30, Pay particular attention to that stupid cowl vent on the
foredeck.
Good luck with your project. Ask more direct questions if you need to. West
System puts out a $3.00 book on repairs that is worth it's weight in
platinum coated gold.
Regards,    Brian     A30    #497
----- Original Message -----
From: "Furey, Bill (CORP)" <bill.furey at corporate.ge.com>
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 1:21 PM
Subject: RE: [Alberg30] Fixing bad decks


> Hi- When you drilled the holes, how did you do it?  How many, how deep
etc.
> for a square foot of deck?
> I have an Alberg 35 & need some support around the boarding area, & most
> probably other places> Thks,
> Bill Furey
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brian and Elaine Timmins [mailto:timmins at optonline.net] 
> Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2001 7:42 AM
> To: Post to Publiclist
> Subject: [Alberg30] Fixing bad decks
>
>
> I want to advise a friend on how to fix his rotted core decks (balsa I
> think). I did mine by drilling holes and injecting epoxy, but he doesn't
> want to do that. We discussed cutting off the top layer of glass, removing
> the rot, reinstalling a core, and reglassing the decks back down. I
remember
> a while back someone discussed using something other than wood for the new
> core. What is that product and what is it like to work with? Is it a
> supposed FOREVER fix (in other words, it won't rerot out)? What's the
price
> like in relation to marine ply? Any other info or advice?
>  By the way, his rotted deck is under a beautiful Teak deck which was
> probably the cause of the failure in the first place.
>
> 2nd Question:   Are there any Plastic (PE) fuel tanks that can be
installed
> under deck for use with Diesel engines. (Based on ABYC Standards / Meeting
> Coast Guard requirements)
>
> Thanks,
> Brian    A30 #497
>
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