[Alberg30] Fixing bad decks

Neal Jackson NJackson at npr.org
Thu Aug 9 06:48:34 PDT 2001


I just spent over $10K to have a yard do the entire deck of PEREGRINE, and
it now looks spectacular and feels as solid as can be (more solid than, say,
a new Beneteau)!  

Not all of the core was replaced; only the portions that were rotted or
waterlogged.  A synthetic core was used, though I don't know what it was.
We started with a surveyor who used a marine moisture sensor to determine
where the core was waterlogged.  Then the yard (I did not do any of the
work) just cut away by hand where there was rot or excessive dampness.  The
job took all winter (off and on).

If you have any questions about specifics I suggest that you call Charlie
Scott at Scott Marine at Kent Narrows (410-827-8150).  Charlie is an
exceedingly good workman with high standards of appearance.  He doesn't have
much backup so he can take a while to get large projects completed.  But he
was only two months late in redelivering PEREGRINE, which given the
uncertainties of a project like deck core replacement and the magnitude of
the overall work (including extensive interior and exterior paint (Awlgrip
and deck grip finishing) and varnish work and electrical work) I did not
consider to be wildly off the mark.

As to the price, we ultimately spent as much on refurbishing as I did when
we bought the boat in 1993.  But we love her classical looks and feel, and
she is still a very seaworthy craft (never a hull blister in eight years of
hull observation).  So I consider spending that amount once in thirty years
(she's a 1971) not to be totally crazy.  Other than sails, she is damn near
in new boat condition.

So I for one would encourage you to fix it.  If it's just the rear deck and
cockpit, it can be a warm-up for the BIG ONE! 

Neal Jackson
PEREGRINE
No. 486

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Johnson [mailto:johnson at gyfb.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 5:32 PM
To: public-list at alberg30.org
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Fixing bad decks


I am at Harrington Harbor North now out of water. Cockpit and back (poop)
deck need recoring. I know cost will be high in comparison to boat market
value but I love boat and it is in mint condition except for the coring
problem
(sort of like "other than that Mrs. Lincoln how did you like the play" ).  I
would like to use the coring materials recommended on this list serve so as
not to have to do it again. All suggestions and recommendations are
appreciated. Thank You! 
   

>>> timmins at optonline.net 08/08/01 05:01PM >>>
Bruce,
  Where are you (or your boat more importantly) located. There are some
pro's up here on Long Island that will undertake this type of work. The
price might be prohibitive though.
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Johnson" <johnson at gyfb.com>
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 4:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Fixing bad decks


> Still looking for recommendations for someone to do recoring work on an
A30.  Would try and do myself after reading all the great advice on this
list serve, but it is all I can do to even get out on the boat, let alone
budget time for major project. Alternatively, does anyone know of a web site
where tradesman might advertise services for  this type in work in area?
>
> >>> timmins at optonline.net 08/08/01 04:03PM >>>
> I used a 3/16 drill bit. Drill the holes through the top layer of glass
> only. I did mine freehand but the best suggestion I've heard is to use
> pegboard as a template for hole spacing.Once all the holes are drilled,
then
> you have to dry out the core. When I did mine, the boat was in a shed so I
> just let it sit with minimal heat under the deck. Once your sure the core
is
> dry, then it's time to fill it. I've heard to use slightly thickened
epoxy.
> I used regular west system with no additives. My mind said it's thinner so
> it'll run through the spaces easier. I've also met one pro who does the
same
> for the same reason. So, to follow the method I used , you will need Epoxy
> resin and appropriate hardener, a supply of syringes for injecting the
> epoxy, a box of brand new #10 sheet metal screws(about 1" & Phillips head
is
> my choice), rags and acetone for cleaning up, and a helper to mix epoxy
> while your injecting it.
>     Mix epoxy, fill syringe, start at one end of the hole pattern and
inject
> inject inject. When epoxy starts coming out of adjoining holes, put a
screw
> in that hole and keep on injecting. Try to keep the screws to minimum
> penetration since later on you'll have to fill all those screw holes. Only
> use NEW screws straight out of the NEW box. You need to have that light
coat
> of manufacturing oil on them to keep the epoxy from sticking to them. Make
a
> real effort to keep the epoxy from pooling on the deck (saves clean up
work
> later). Once you start the injection process, keep going until the deck is
> full. That way there are no bonding issues to deal with and no worries
about
> amine blush in the core. Let the epoxy cure before you remove the screws.
> Yes, they will come out easy. At this point your deck is solid with all
> those little shallow holes in it. fill the holes and refinish the deck.
>   I used this method even though my entire foredeck need recoring.
Hindsight
> says I should have pulled the top skin, re&re the core and reinstalled the
> top skin. The drill and fill method did work and to this day, I don't have
a
>  problem where I did this. In fact, I'm considering buying a bigger boat
> with a similar problem (it needs recoring on the deck also). It's not a
> particularly hard problem to solve.
>   Since you did ask How Many, I drilled 1400+ holes in my foredeck and
> slightly down the sides.
>    To everyone with solid decks, PLEASE rebed everything on your deck. If
> yours is an A30, Pay particular attention to that stupid cowl vent on the
> foredeck.
> Good luck with your project. Ask more direct questions if you need to.
West
> System puts out a $3.00 book on repairs that is worth it's weight in
> platinum coated gold.
> Regards,    Brian     A30    #497
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Furey, Bill (CORP)" <bill.furey at corporate.ge.com>
> To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 1:21 PM
> Subject: RE: [Alberg30] Fixing bad decks
>
>
> > Hi- When you drilled the holes, how did you do it?  How many, how deep
> etc.
> > for a square foot of deck?
> > I have an Alberg 35 & need some support around the boarding area, & most
> > probably other places> Thks,
> > Bill Furey
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Brian and Elaine Timmins [mailto:timmins at optonline.net] 
> > Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2001 7:42 AM
> > To: Post to Publiclist
> > Subject: [Alberg30] Fixing bad decks
> >
> >
> > I want to advise a friend on how to fix his rotted core decks (balsa I
> > think). I did mine by drilling holes and injecting epoxy, but he doesn't
> > want to do that. We discussed cutting off the top layer of glass,
removing
> > the rot, reinstalling a core, and reglassing the decks back down. I
> remember
> > a while back someone discussed using something other than wood for the
new
> > core. What is that product and what is it like to work with? Is it a
> > supposed FOREVER fix (in other words, it won't rerot out)? What's the
> price
> > like in relation to marine ply? Any other info or advice?
> >  By the way, his rotted deck is under a beautiful Teak deck which was
> > probably the cause of the failure in the first place.
> >
> > 2nd Question:   Are there any Plastic (PE) fuel tanks that can be
> installed
> > under deck for use with Diesel engines. (Based on ABYC Standards /
Meeting
> > Coast Guard requirements)
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Brian    A30 #497
> >
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