[Alberg30] Fixing bad decks

[George Dinwiddie]

Brian,

I'm probably the person you remember.  I've been using Klegecell,
which is a plastic foam sheet, but there are many other brands:
Divynicell, Airex, Airlite, ....  I used Klegecell because it
was available mail-order from Fiberglass Coatings Inc 
(http://www.fgci.com/).  I can get glass and foam core cheaper 
there than locally.

The Klegecell I used is PL75, a relatively stiff foam.  A 3/8"
sheet (48" x 96" nominal size) cost $73.80 in 1998.  The web
site lists it for the same price, today.  I have them cut it 
in thirds for shipping; otherwise the shipping costs are 
exhorbitant due to the oversize.

Where the balsa is dry, I leave it, but where it's damp, I
replace it with the rot-proof foam.

I lay up new glass on top, layering 1.5 oz. glass mat, 6.0 oz.
glass cloth, and 1.5 oz. glass mat again.  This seems to 
create a strong enough deck, in my experience.  Frequently, I 
add another layer or two of glass mat to reach the appropriate
height.  I fair the surface with a mixture of resin and
glass beads, sanding it smooth.  For non-skid, I mix non-skid
compound in the paint.

 - George


> Brian and Elaine Timmins wrote:
> 
> I want to advise a friend on how to fix his rotted core decks (balsa I
> think). I did mine by drilling holes and injecting epoxy, but he
> doesn't want to do that. We discussed cutting off the top layer of
> glass, removing the rot, reinstalling a core, and reglassing the decks
> back down. I remember a while back someone discussed using something
> other than wood for the new core. What is that product and what is it
> like to work with? Is it a supposed FOREVER fix (in other words, it
> won't rerot out)? What's the price like in relation to marine ply? Any
> other info or advice?
>  By the way, his rotted deck is under a beautiful Teak deck which was
> probably the cause of the failure in the first place.
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