[Alberg30] Re: teak on stern - Off Topic

[Alan P. Kefauver]

I have several Dozuki saws and others as well. I also am a fan of Japanese chisels (Blue Steel).Lee Valley is a goodplace, but check out
http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~alf/en/en.html
The Electronic Neanderthal Woodworking site

*********** REPLY SEPARATOR  ***********

On 2/7/2001 at 5:24 PM John Birch wrote:

>Alan,
>
>I agree, I feel it doesn't take that much longer to get accurate
>measurements with good tools and to use hand tools for all but the
>original cut which should be targeted to be as close as is possible after
>accounting for finishing work. One of my favourite tools is a Japanese
>Dozuki hand saw which cuts on the pull and has teeth only kerfed in one
>direction. Narrow blade, it is prefect for fine cabinetry. Bought it from
>Lee Valley Tools. And s.s. flexible notched rulers which eliminate
>parallax errors - same source.
>
>Cheers,
>
>John
>
>  ----- Original Message ----- 
>  From: Alan P. Kefauver 
>  To: public-list at alberg30.org 
>  Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 4:01 PM
>  Subject: Re: [Alberg30] teak on stern
>
>
>  A belt sander is the one tool I would never let near my boat. Try an
>orbital sander like the DeWalt 6".
>  As a serious wood worker, I think handheld beltsanders and power planers
>should be banned from the earth. I have repaired more damage for other
>people caused by those two tools than nearly any other cause.
>  Just a word to the wise.
>
>  ps; I fit the wood parts to my boat with hand planes.
>  *********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>
>  On 2/7/2001 at 3:37 PM Gord Laco wrote:
>
>      I agree - a fine boatbuilder once told me "Make it too big & sand it
>down.  That's what God gave us belt sanders for."
>    He really said that.  
>    Gord KC426 Surprise
>      ----- Original Message ----- 
>      From: Alan P. Kefauver 
>      To: public-list at alberg30.org 
>      Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 3:23 PM
>      Subject: Re: [Alberg30] teak on stern
>
>
>      Cut it oversize. mount it. jigsaw it to close tolerance. sand to
>final tolerance. use a router with a roundover bit to contour the edges.
>remove it and bed it with 4200 and reinstall.
>      *********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>
>      On 2/7/2001 at 11:37 AM Lorelei23 at aol.com wrote: 
>        Dear Bill. 
>
>        The piece of teak I have is shaped like a milled piece of lumber. 
>It's 2" x 
>        16".  The former owner gave me the wood as he was planning to
>replace the 
>        stern piece himself; he just never got around to it.  He actually
>had a 
>        cardboard pattern tacked to the wood, but the guy who is
>refinishing all my 
>        deck wood is hestitant to have it cut by that pattern  because it
>has many 
>        odd markings on it, i.e. up arrows, down arrows, etc.  We don't
>want to cut 
>        the wood and find that it doesn't fit.   
>
>        Some of the other information I have received from other owners
>includes: 
>
>        Dwalker at cemcocpa.com (Dan Walker) :  the stern piece is actually
>three 
>        layers, one on top of the other mitered and fit together.  I  saw
>a "younger" 
>        boat and its stern piece had spacers between the deck and the top
>piece which 
>        was cheaper and allowed for water drainage off the stern.  This
>would be 
>        cheaper but not as nice to look at. 
>
>        I have no idea that this will be helpful information, but it's all
>I have.   
>        Any thoughts you might have on replacement would be appreciated. 
>I wish I 
>        had the old teak the former owner took off the boat so I would not
>be at such 
>        a disadvantage in replacing it.   
>
>        Sincerely,    Lorelei
>
>
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