[Alberg30] Re: Bedding Shroud Tangs

Mike Lehman sail_505 at hotmail.com
Wed Jun 6 10:31:59 PDT 2001


Wilhelm - I've done the job several times now. It's not hard, but takes time 
a patience. The most difficult part is taking them apart using care not to 
break the frames. Polishing the frames can be time consuming, depending of 
the level of finish you want, or if you care about that at all. It is a one 
man job for removal, but helps to have two people [one outside; one inside] 
for re-installation. By using 100% clear silcon sealant and not tightening 
the frames all the way down initially, but coming back several days later 
for final tightening, I completely eliminated the leaks. The only reason I 
did the job a second time on my boat [last year, after 22 years] was not 
because they leaked, but because the glass had become so crazed that I 
wanted to change it. A word of advice, is to not mix up the frames, I 
labeled them as they were remove starboard-aft-inside, etc.


----Original Message Follows----
From: "Wilhelm Ydel" <bydel at bellsouth.net>
Reply-To: public-list at alberg30.org
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Re: Bedding Shroud Tangs
Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 08:11:55 -0400

I need to replace my windows and am somewhat reticent to get started.(they
all leak and the glass is no longer clear)  I have read the two articles in
the manual.
Is this a two man job,one on the outside and one on the inside??  Any other
thoughts would be appreciated.

Bill Ydel
SallyB #441

----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian and Elaine Timmins" <timmins at optonline.net>
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 4:20 AM
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Re: Bedding Shroud Tangs


 > I redid my windows 5 years ago. I used 100% marine grade Silicone (I'm 
not
 > sure what the difference is anymore, except I remember it doesn't have 
the
 > same smell). No problems so far.
 > Brian
 > ----- Original Message -----
 > From: "Mike Lehman" <sail_505 at hotmail.com>
 > To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
 > Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2001 11:57 AM
 > Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Re: Bedding Shroud Tangs
 >
 >
 > > For windows - I found that clear 100% silcone works best. I did a 
re-bed
 > job
 > > 22 years ago and it held fine until last year when I re-did them again
 > with
 > > the same stuff.
 > >
 > >
 > > ----Original Message Follows----
 > > From: "Carl Clarkstone" <oracle_29 at hotmail.com>
 > > Reply-To: public-list at alberg30.org
 > > To: public-list at alberg30.org
 > > Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Re: Bedding Shroud Tangs
 > > Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 07:44:41 -0700
 > >
 > > I expect many will dissagree, but after using sikaflex and 5200 to seal
my
 > > shroud tangs( both of which started leaking within a year) I used plain
 > old
 > > clear RTV, I used a fair amount to build up a nicely filleted bead
around
 > > the tang and this has been absolutely leak free for 7 yrs, I also had
 > > approximatly the same experience with the windows!
 > > It appears to me that sikaflex and 5200 just weren't elastic enough.
 > > Carl
 > >
 > >
 > > >From: George Dinwiddie <gdinwiddie at min.net>
 > > >Reply-To: public-list at alberg30.org
 > > >To: public-list at alberg30.org
 > > >Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Re: Bedding Shroud Tangs
 > > >Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 21:50:02 -0400
 > > >
 > > >Brian,
 > > >
 > > >Elastomeric is not as strong as 5200.  BTW, it's generally safe to
 > > >use 5200 for metal parts.  If you heat the part with a propane torch,
 > > >the 5200 will soften.  Bruce Ranking recommended it for the rudder
 > > >shoe.  Said it would never fall off, even if the bolts corroded
 > > >away, and at 400 degrees F the 5200 would turn to butter.
 > > >
 > > >How long have you had that 5200?  5200 and 4200 are cured by
 > > >moisture.  They come in a sealed cartridge with a little can
 > > >of dessicant in the butt end.  In spite of that, the tube of
 > > >4200 that I bought last fall for putting on my new taffrail
 > > >was no good this spring when I got around to doing the job.
 > > >It had hardened in the tube.
 > > >
 > > >  - George
 > > >
 > > > > Brian and Elaine Timmins wrote:
 > > > >
 > > > > To George and others recommending Rule Elastometric,
 > > > >     I just checked the sites offered up by George and the info 
there
 > > > > in. The description of Elastometric Bedding Compound sounds very
much
 > > > > like 5200 as far as it's tenacious bond strength is concerned. Is
 > > > > it similar to 5200 at least as far as this is concerned? I've
 > > > > generally stopped using 5200 for exactly that reason and I'm not
 > > > > looking forward to removing anything I've ever bedded with it. On
the
 > > > > other hand, when bedding shroud tangs is it better to use a product
 > > > > that adheres and flexes like this.
 > > > >    I can't find the elastometric compound around here (easily
anyway)
 > > > > and I'm looking at the first weather window to get this done. I
 > > > > already own a cartridge of 5200 and one of 101. If you had to 
choose
 > > > > between the two, which one would you use?
 > > > > Regards and thanks,    Brian
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