[Alberg30] toerails and bulkhead

[Gord Laco]

toerails and bulkheadHello,

My A30 also had leaking toe-rails.  I cured the problem by masking and caulking both inboard and outboard edges with Sika flex.  Because in my wooden boat days I did a similar job on 32 planks every second or third year, I didn't think this job too bad; and it worked.  I rely on a good build up of varnish to keep the plugs over the bolts water tight.

Re your bulkhead... I see no easy solution there.  In my wooden boat days I had a similar problem; here's what I did, and here's how it turned out.

First I eliminated the source of water.  Then after drying the bulkhead out with heat, I entombed the rotten wood in epoxy.  I then cut and fitted plywood doublers fore and aft to restore the bulhead's strength.  These doublers were about six inches wide and followed the contour of the underside of the deck and the hull.  The fitting was tough because of the shear clamp, shelf stringer etc a wooden boat has there.

Result?  about eight years later the rot began appearing beyond the edges of the doublers - not entombed after all.  Had to replace the whole bulkhead.  Is eight years a cure? I dunno, but it was all I could afford to do when the problem first arose.

Gord A30 KC426 Surprise
  
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Wrightson, Charles 
  To: 'public-list at alberg30.org' 
  Sent: Monday, June 11, 2001 2:54 PM
  Subject: [Alberg30] toerails and bulkhead


  I just bought an A-30 and have two problems. The toerail is in pretty bad shape and as a result there is substancial leaking into the saloon. I am thinking about a repair (rebedding it) or replacement. I am looking for someone who could do millwork (of a toerail) without letting the boatyard handle the whole project.If I chose to rebed it, does anyone have suggestions on making it watertight (Is it as easy as 5200 and tighter bolts?

  the second problem is the port bulkhead (between the salon and the head has some rot because of the leaking). It seems to comprise 6 to 8 inches from the outside edge inward. Is there a way to make an effective repair without replacing the whole wall, which involves dissassembling everything around it etc. 

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