[Alberg30] Re: Bedding Shroud Tangs

Wed Jun 6 05:11:55 PDT 2001

I need to replace my windows and am somewhat reticent to get started.(they
all leak and the glass is no longer clear)  I have read the two articles in
the manual.
Is this a two man job,one on the outside and one on the inside??  Any other
thoughts would be appreciated.

Bill Ydel
SallyB #441

----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian and Elaine Timmins" <timmins at optonline.net>
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 4:20 AM
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Re: Bedding Shroud Tangs

> I redid my windows 5 years ago. I used 100% marine grade Silicone (I'm not
> sure what the difference is anymore, except I remember it doesn't have the
> same smell). No problems so far.
> Brian
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Lehman" <sail_505 at hotmail.com>
> To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2001 11:57 AM
> Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Re: Bedding Shroud Tangs
>
>
> > For windows - I found that clear 100% silcone works best. I did a re-bed
> job
> > 22 years ago and it held fine until last year when I re-did them again
> with
> > the same stuff.
> >
> >
> > ----Original Message Follows----
> > From: "Carl Clarkstone" <oracle_29 at hotmail.com>
> > Reply-To: public-list at alberg30.org
> > To: public-list at alberg30.org
> > Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Re: Bedding Shroud Tangs
> > Date: Tue, 05 Jun 2001 07:44:41 -0700
> >
> > I expect many will dissagree, but after using sikaflex and 5200 to seal
my
> > shroud tangs( both of which started leaking within a year) I used plain
> old
> > clear RTV, I used a fair amount to build up a nicely filleted bead
around
> > the tang and this has been absolutely leak free for 7 yrs, I also had
> > approximatly the same experience with the windows!
> > It appears to me that sikaflex and 5200 just weren't elastic enough.
> > Carl
> >
> >
> > >From: George Dinwiddie <gdinwiddie at min.net>
> > >Reply-To: public-list at alberg30.org
> > >To: public-list at alberg30.org
> > >Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Re: Bedding Shroud Tangs
> > >Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 21:50:02 -0400
> > >
> > >Brian,
> > >
> > >Elastomeric is not as strong as 5200.  BTW, it's generally safe to
> > >use 5200 for metal parts.  If you heat the part with a propane torch,
> > >the 5200 will soften.  Bruce Ranking recommended it for the rudder
> > >shoe.  Said it would never fall off, even if the bolts corroded
> > >away, and at 400 degrees F the 5200 would turn to butter.
> > >
> > >How long have you had that 5200?  5200 and 4200 are cured by
> > >moisture.  They come in a sealed cartridge with a little can
> > >of dessicant in the butt end.  In spite of that, the tube of
> > >4200 that I bought last fall for putting on my new taffrail
> > >was no good this spring when I got around to doing the job.
> > >It had hardened in the tube.
> > >
> > >  - George
> > >
> > > > Brian and Elaine Timmins wrote:
> > > >
> > > > To George and others recommending Rule Elastometric,
> > > >     I just checked the sites offered up by George and the info there
> > > > in. The description of Elastometric Bedding Compound sounds very
much
> > > > like 5200 as far as it's tenacious bond strength is concerned. Is
> > > > it similar to 5200 at least as far as this is concerned? I've
> > > > generally stopped using 5200 for exactly that reason and I'm not
> > > > looking forward to removing anything I've ever bedded with it. On
the
> > > > other hand, when bedding shroud tangs is it better to use a product
> > > > that adheres and flexes like this.
> > > >    I can't find the elastometric compound around here (easily
anyway)
> > > > and I'm looking at the first weather window to get this done. I
> > > > already own a cartridge of 5200 and one of 101. If you had to choose
> > > > between the two, which one would you use?
> > > > Regards and thanks,    Brian
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