[Alberg30] deck core

[Gord Laco]

mmmm, you're calling my bluff by asking me to be specific!

Well, I'd say that the thing to do is match the thickness of what was
already there.  You'll have easier transitions to areas you don't have to
gouge out, and of course the purpose of the core material is to hold the
upper and lower skins of the deck apart to make it stiff.

Gord

----- Original Message -----
From: John P Reber <JohnReber at ChesapeakeIsle.org>
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2001 11:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] deck core


> At 11:29 AM 6/19/2001 -0400, you wrote:
> >John -
> >
> >You are going to get lots of opinions... here is mine.
> >
> >I'd go with the best quality marine plywood I could afford.  The benefits
of
> >the other choices involve lightness - but in each case (I feel) negative
> >characteristics involving "crushability" under fittings and water
absorbtion
> >come too.  The good plywood is strong, when soaked in resin is quite
water
> >proof, and in our boats you are unlikely to notice a sailing performance
> >loss because of the weight.  That is unless the Canada's Cup committee
sees
> >the light and decrees that the up-coming seried between Canada and the
U.S.
> >will be sailed in A30's   ;)
> >
> >Cheers, Gord KC426 Surprise
>
> OK, I like the idea of strong...
>
> If I used plywood, is there a layer of fiberglass cloth used under the
> plywood. When I talked to the supplier, I was told no under the Klegecell
> and yes under the balsa...
>
> Also would I use the same thickness of plywood as I would if used balsa or
> would I use a thinner sheet???
>
> As for the crushability, this old boat did recommended to cut in sections
> of plywood under fittings when using cel's or balsa
>
> thanks,
>
> ------------------
> John P Reber
> "FAIR WIND,  #490"
>
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