[Alberg30] Deck Repairs

Brian and Elaine Timmins timmins at optonline.net
Mon Feb 4 13:44:42 PST 2002 

When I did my foredeck, The boat was indoors, but not heated. I would start
up either one or two Origo Alcohol heaters in the V berth area every time I
went to the boat (if it was over 40`, I was there after work, or all day). I
drilled the holes in December and did the epoxy injection by the end of May.
The core was giving me relatively dry samples before I started the
injection. Five or six years later, it's still fine.
Brian   #497
P.S. I like the margerine idea, but can't vouch for it personally.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Berube5" <Berube5 at cox.net>
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 3:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs


> Bill,
>
> A word of caution- Pearson used balsa in the construction of their decks.
> From personal experience I can tell you that the "drill and dry" method is
> not a rapid repair- time wise.
>
> Balsa holds moisture tenaciously. I have drilled a pattern of holes into
the
> core in the manner that others have suggested. My boat has been stored
> indoors and heated for over a year. After NINE months of "drying out" I
> could still pull up wet drill cores of balsa after drilling new test
holes.
>
> I used the heat lamp approach- to little effect. You also need to be
careful
> not to overheat the fiberglass- Don Casey says that if it is too hot to
> touch- it is too hot. Obviously, if the boat is outdoors it will not dry
out
> if the decks are frozen.
>
> I don't want to discourage you- but it is important be realistic and
> patient. A job like this should not be rushed. An epoxy repair will not
work
> if the core is still wet.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Dana Berube
> 1960 Pearson Triton (balsa core deck)
>
> On 02/04/2002 13:40, "Furey, Bill (CORP)" <bill.furey at corporate.ge.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Bria & Gord: Thanks-the drying process may be tricky-the boat
> > is uncovered(reason for the problem in the first place)I guess
> > wait for a dry weather pattern, drill holes, & rig lamps?
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Gord Laco [mailto:gord at transatmarine.com]
> > Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 8:32 AM
> > To: public-list at alberg30.org
> > Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
> >
> >
> > I've done the same job - I dip the screws in margerine to keep the epoxy
> > from holding them.
> >
> > Gord
> > KC426 Surprise
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Brian and Elaine Timmins <timmins at optonline.net>
> > To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
> > Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2002 5:07 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
> >
> >
> >> Bill,
> >>    Drilling into the deck where it is delaminated or the core is rotted
is
> >> easy. The top layer of fiberglass is only 1/8 - 3/16" or so. You'll
know
> > for
> >> sure after one or two holes. When the drill bit penetrates the skin,
> > you'll
> >> feel the difference because then it's drilling air (or rotted core
which
> >> feels like air). The hard part is stopping before you go further. If
> > you're
> >> used to using a drill, it's easy. If you're not, you will be quickly.
For
> >> any holes that make it through the lower skin, I recommend using
polyester
> >> putty (Bondo or Body fill stuff) to close the hole. It works better
than
> >> most tapes.
> >>    I suggest using a 3/16" bit. When you finally get to inject the
epoxy,
> >> start at the lowest point and keep injecting until it starts to come
out
> > of
> >> other holes. When that happens, put a #10 sheet metal screw (only use
> > brand
> >> new screws) into the hole where the epoxy is coming out, and keep
> > injecting
> >> into that same hole if possible. It's better to fill the voids from the
> >> bottom up. If you use brand new screws to close the holes as they get
> > full,
> >> the oil from manufacturing will prevent the epoxy from bonding to them.
If
> >> you use old screws, or heavily handled screws, they may become part of
the
> >> deck forever.
> >>    Good luck, it's easier than it sounds.
> >> Brian    #497
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Furey, Bill (CORP)" <bill.furey at corporate.ge.com>
> >> To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
> >> Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2002 11:23 AM
> >> Subject: RE: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
> >>
> >>
> >>> Hi Greg: I have an Alberg 35 with some wet areas. two questions:
> >>> 1. how deep for the holes & can you tell readily that you have'nt
> > drilled
> >>> too far?
> >>> 2. How can I get &how much, what brand etc for a moisture meter.
> >>> thks.
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: greg [mailto:greg at vandenbergphoto.com]
> >>> Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 6:03 PM
> >>> To: public-list at alberg30.org
> >>> Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> I may regret sticking my nose in here. Having been involved in the
> > repair
> >> of
> >>> such
> >>> things on our 1968 A30 #312. We have replaced our cockpit soul and
> >> repaired
> >>> side
> >>> deck de lamination in areas of the non skid with good result. It is
not
> > as
> >>> scary
> >>> as it looks... just time consuming. We did not cut away the wet
> >> de-laminated
> >>> areas  of the deck  ( not true of the cockpit sole) but drilled 1/4
inch
> >>> holes on
> >>> a 1 inch grid over the wet areas and then with lamps dried the areas
> > till
> >>> the
> >>> moisture meter showed an acceptable content. We then injected as much
> >> epoxy
> >>> resin
> >>> as the delaminated area would except and filled and smoothed the area
> > with
> >>> thickened epoxy. Over which we applied a new non skid surface with
> >> mron(sp)
> >>> and
> >>> Awlgrip's silica. We did this on the entire deck  and cockpit. It
looked
> >>> great
> >>> when complete. Drying was not a fast process it took days and the
> > project
> >>> took
> >>> alot of time away from sailing.
> >>>
> >>> Kindest Regards- Greg
> >>>
> >>> PS: I'm in west Michigan if you want to talk. 616 454 5225
> >>> PPS: Same for the cockpit sole.
> >>>
> >>> "Paloma L. Hawry" wrote:
> >>>
> >>>>
> >>>> We need to let the owner know soon if we are willing to purchase the
> >> boat
> >>>> and tackle this work.  Our expectation is that we are looking at deck
> >>>> repairs anywhere between $2000 and $7000 range - assuming we do some
> > of
> >>> the
> >>>> work ourselves. (We are handy and willing to do much of the prep and
> >>>> painting/finish work, but haven't got the experience or sufficient
> > time
> >>> for
> >>>> the structural work).  As we are on a very tight budget, we can't
> > afford
> >>>> major surprises beyond that range.
> >>>>
> >>>
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