[Alberg30] Deck Repairs

Mike Lehman sail_505 at hotmail.com
Fri Feb 1 04:52:50 PST 2002


Buy it! Whitby built a good boat and just like any boat there will always be 
a repair list. Do the repairs over time.


----Original Message Follows----
From: "Paloma L. Hawry" <phawry at actoras.com>
Reply-To: public-list at alberg30.org
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Subject: RE: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 17:48:40 -0600

I appreciate all the responses to our quandry.  It is a major decision for
us since we will invest mightily - heart soul and money in whatever boat we
find.

We have had a very thorough survey performed with a moisture meter and have
drawings of where the suspect areas are. The surveyor's moisture meter
showed the damage to be essentially the length of both side decks, virtually
at every stanchion, no foredeck damage, a a small area on the cabin top.
(Mast step was rebuilt adequately and left open for inspection - no apparent
moisture damage in that area).  Our surveyor is locally known as "Dr. Doom"
so while we appreciate his thoroughness, we are left wondering how extensive
or serious the problem really is given that we know we are looking at a 1965
boat which is bound to have problems.  There are no noticeable soft spots.
He passed the hull and other structural aspects as alright.  The boat has
been in the water each year (fresh water) but has hardly been sailed so it
has not had the structural stress of racing and cruising, just the stress of
slow neglect.  Rigging, sails, are sound, electronics minimal, AC wiring non
compliant but for us unnecessary.   Has an old Atomic 4, but my husband is
very comfortable with engine work, and we have already priced what a rebuild
would cost.  Our budget accounts for the need to replace and upgrade many
items, but it is the deck problem that has us in a quandry...

Thus far my research and your responses have shown three distinct approaches
to repairing the decks:
1) drill holes on a 1" a grid in the damaged areas, dry thoroughtly, then
fill with epoxy and sand/refinish
2) cutout and retain top skin (remove all rotted core attached), remove
damaged core, sand down to lower skin, replace with new core material (foam
or plywood) refill with resin to the correct level, replace and fair-in the
old skin, and repaint surface as needed
3) Cut-out area, remove damaged core, replace with foam or wood and rebuild
glass deck.

Of these, it would seem to me that the second choice might make the most
sense as long as the original skin was in fairly good shape.  This would
largely preserve the original contours and molded non-skid and reduce the
fairing and surface areas requiring rebuild to look good.   Any thoughts in
comparing these approaches?  And again, does anyone know of a way to find an
individual tradesperson who might help us with the repairs?

I'll stop cluttering up the cyberwaves now...

Thanks All




Paloma L. Hawry, Partner
Actoras Consulting Group
1821 Walden Office Square Suite 400
Schaumburg, IL 60173
Office:  (847) 622-8812
Cell: (847) 274-3086
Fax: (847)631-0869


-----Original Message-----
From:	public-list-admin at alberg30.org [mailto:public-list-admin at alberg30.org]
On Behalf Of greg
Sent:	Thursday, January 31, 2002 5:03 PM
To:	public-list at alberg30.org
Subject:	Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs

I may regret sticking my nose in here. Having been involved in the repair of
such
things on our 1968 A30 #312. We have replaced our cockpit soul and repaired
side
deck de lamination in areas of the non skid with good result. It is not as
scary
as it looks... just time consuming. We did not cut away the wet de-laminated
areas  of the deck  ( not true of the cockpit sole) but drilled 1/4 inch
holes on
a 1 inch grid over the wet areas and then with lamps dried the areas till
the
moisture meter showed an acceptable content. We then injected as much epoxy
resin
as the delaminated area would except and filled and smoothed the area with
thickened epoxy. Over which we applied a new non skid surface with mron(sp)
and
Awlgrip's silica. We did this on the entire deck  and cockpit. It looked
great
when complete. Drying was not a fast process it took days and the project
took
alot of time away from sailing.

Kindest Regards- Greg

PS: I'm in west Michigan if you want to talk. 616 454 5225
PPS: Same for the cockpit sole.

"Paloma L. Hawry" wrote:

 >
 > We need to let the owner know soon if we are willing to purchase the boat
 > and tackle this work.  Our expectation is that we are looking at deck
 > repairs anywhere between $2000 and $7000 range - assuming we do some of
the
 > work ourselves. (We are handy and willing to do much of the prep and
 > painting/finish work, but haven't got the experience or sufficient time
for
 > the structural work).  As we are on a very tight budget, we can't afford
 > major surprises beyond that range.
 >

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