[Alberg30] Deck Repairs

Fri Feb 1 08:32:25 PST 2002

Do I understand  this is an Alberg 35?

I don't know what Pearson used as a deck coring (if it was plywood - run
away) - but if you were talking an Alberg 30 or 37 built in 1965 - the first
year of the 37's the deck core would be masonite and is virtually
indestructible - with all respects to my good friends on the list - I would
think twice about buying a boat with that much core problem unless the price
was extremely low for the up front purchase.

There are A-37's and A-30s of the masonite core deck variety (structurally
very good boats) which have been left more or less original and not up
graded, that can be had for a reasonable price and would offer a better up
grade potential.
I have seen sound A-37s go for as little as $26 -33K US - and I have seen
them go
for $55 - 65K US - one Canadian boat in excellent shape, very well equipped,
just went for + $90K (keep the
currency cracks down guy's ; ).

Having restored a MK 1 A-37, Sunstone, I can tell you that new rigging and
upgrading winches and sails etcetera can get fairly pricy - since there is
nothing in your comments to indicate contrary - I am guessing the deck is
not the only thing on the boat you are looking at that may need attention.
Get one diesel powered - ideally with the original Westerbeke 4-107 up
grade option - they are great engines The Perkins 4-108 is basically the
same engine. Or one recently repowered with a new diesel - this months
Practical Sailor has some good advice on diesel rankings.

You will likely need new standing rigging - go for it - don't scrimp (once
you
have lifted an A-37 mast you'll understand how important it is to not have
it come down the fast way). Personally I would use 316SS wire, and increase
the size by one diameter (316 is less strong than 304 by about 10%) - your
turnbuckles probably will need renewal so the cost is built in anyway. If
looking at furlers, we have been very happy with the Schaffer 2000, now 2100
and highly recommend it.

An A-37 will cost you on average about 70% more for parts than an A-30
except sails which are about 40% more.

These are suggestions, I believe the masonite decks of the Whitby Alberg
boats to be some of the best constructed decks of their generation and
vastly superior to balsa or plywood. If you search you will find one of
these boats - may I suggest the Alberg 37 International Owners Assoc web
site.

Whatever your choice, best of luck and fair winds

John

----- Original Message -----
From: "DanaB" <Berube5 at home.com>
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2002 7:57 AM
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs

> FWIIW- the Alberg  35 was built by Pearson Yachts.
>
> Dana Berube
> 1960 Pearson Triton #99
>
> On 02/01/2002 07:52, "Mike Lehman" <sail_505 at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Buy it! Whitby built a good boat and just like any boat there will
always be
> > a repair list. Do the repairs over time.
> >
> >
> > ----Original Message Follows----
> > From: "Paloma L. Hawry" <phawry at actoras.com>
> > Reply-To: public-list at alberg30.org
> > To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
> > Subject: RE: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
> > Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 17:48:40 -0600
> >
> > I appreciate all the responses to our quandry.  It is a major decision
for
> > us since we will invest mightily - heart soul and money in whatever boat
we
> > find.
> >
> > We have had a very thorough survey performed with a moisture meter and
have
> > drawings of where the suspect areas are. The surveyor's moisture meter
> > showed the damage to be essentially the length of both side decks,
virtually
> > at every stanchion, no foredeck damage, a a small area on the cabin top.
> > (Mast step was rebuilt adequately and left open for inspection - no
apparent
> > moisture damage in that area).  Our surveyor is locally known as "Dr.
Doom"
> > so while we appreciate his thoroughness, we are left wondering how
extensive
> > or serious the problem really is given that we know we are looking at a
1965
> > boat which is bound to have problems.  There are no noticeable soft
spots.
> > He passed the hull and other structural aspects as alright.  The boat
has
> > been in the water each year (fresh water) but has hardly been sailed so
it
> > has not had the structural stress of racing and cruising, just the
stress of
> > slow neglect.  Rigging, sails, are sound, electronics minimal, AC wiring
non
> > compliant but for us unnecessary.   Has an old Atomic 4, but my husband
is
> > very comfortable with engine work, and we have already priced what a
rebuild
> > would cost.  Our budget accounts for the need to replace and upgrade
many
> > items, but it is the deck problem that has us in a quandry...
> >
> > Thus far my research and your responses have shown three distinct
approaches
> > to repairing the decks:
> > 1) drill holes on a 1" a grid in the damaged areas, dry thoroughtly,
then
> > fill with epoxy and sand/refinish
> > 2) cutout and retain top skin (remove all rotted core attached), remove
> > damaged core, sand down to lower skin, replace with new core material
(foam
> > or plywood) refill with resin to the correct level, replace and fair-in
the
> > old skin, and repaint surface as needed
> > 3) Cut-out area, remove damaged core, replace with foam or wood and
rebuild
> > glass deck.
> >
> > Of these, it would seem to me that the second choice might make the most
> > sense as long as the original skin was in fairly good shape.  This would
> > largely preserve the original contours and molded non-skid and reduce
the
> > fairing and surface areas requiring rebuild to look good.   Any thoughts
in
> > comparing these approaches?  And again, does anyone know of a way to
find an
> > individual tradesperson who might help us with the repairs?
> >
> > I'll stop cluttering up the cyberwaves now...
> >
> > Thanks All
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Paloma L. Hawry, Partner
> > Actoras Consulting Group
> > 1821 Walden Office Square Suite 400
> > Schaumburg, IL 60173
> > Office:  (847) 622-8812
> > Cell: (847) 274-3086
> > Fax: (847)631-0869
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:    public-list-admin at alberg30.org
> [mailto:public-list-admin at alberg30.org]
> > On Behalf Of greg
> > Sent:    Thursday, January 31, 2002 5:03 PM
> > To:    public-list at alberg30.org
> > Subject:    Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
> >
> > I may regret sticking my nose in here. Having been involved in the
repair of
> > such
> > things on our 1968 A30 #312. We have replaced our cockpit soul and
repaired
> > side
> > deck de lamination in areas of the non skid with good result. It is not
as
> > scary
> > as it looks... just time consuming. We did not cut away the wet
de-laminated
> > areas  of the deck  ( not true of the cockpit sole) but drilled 1/4 inch
> > holes on
> > a 1 inch grid over the wet areas and then with lamps dried the areas
till
> > the
> > moisture meter showed an acceptable content. We then injected as much
epoxy
> > resin
> > as the delaminated area would except and filled and smoothed the area
with
> > thickened epoxy. Over which we applied a new non skid surface with
mron(sp)
> > and
> > Awlgrip's silica. We did this on the entire deck  and cockpit. It looked
> > great
> > when complete. Drying was not a fast process it took days and the
project
> > took
> > alot of time away from sailing.
> >
> > Kindest Regards- Greg
> >
> > PS: I'm in west Michigan if you want to talk. 616 454 5225
> > PPS: Same for the cockpit sole.
> >
> > "Paloma L. Hawry" wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> We need to let the owner know soon if we are willing to purchase the
boat
> >> and tackle this work.  Our expectation is that we are looking at deck
> >> repairs anywhere between $2000 and $7000 range - assuming we do some of
> > the
> >> work ourselves. (We are handy and willing to do much of the prep and
> >> painting/finish work, but haven't got the experience or sufficient time
> > for
> >> the structural work).  As we are on a very tight budget, we can't
afford
> >> major surprises beyond that range.
> >>

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