[Alberg30] Deck Repairs

Fri Feb 1 11:43:34 PST 2002

> Buy it! Whitby built a good boat and just like any boat there will
always be
> a repair list. Do the repairs over time.
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: "Paloma L. Hawry" <phawry at actoras.com>
> Reply-To: public-list at alberg30.org
> To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
> Subject: RE: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
> Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2002 17:48:40 -0600
>
> I appreciate all the responses to our quandry.  It is a major
decision for
> us since we will invest mightily - heart soul and money in whatever
boat we
> find.
>
> We have had a very thorough survey performed with a moisture meter
and have
> drawings of where the suspect areas are. The surveyor's moisture
meter
> showed the damage to be essentially the length of both side decks,
virtually
> at every stanchion, no foredeck damage, a a small area on the cabin
top.
> (Mast step was rebuilt adequately and left open for inspection - no
apparent
> moisture damage in that area).  Our surveyor is locally known as
"Dr. Doom"
> so while we appreciate his thoroughness, we are left wondering how
extensive
> or serious the problem really is given that we know we are looking
at a 1965
> boat which is bound to have problems.  There are no noticeable soft
spots.
> He passed the hull and other structural aspects as alright.  The
boat has
> been in the water each year (fresh water) but has hardly been sailed
so it
> has not had the structural stress of racing and cruising, just the
stress of
> slow neglect.  Rigging, sails, are sound, electronics minimal, AC
wiring non
> compliant but for us unnecessary.   Has an old Atomic 4, but my
husband is
> very comfortable with engine work, and we have already priced what a
rebuild
> would cost.  Our budget accounts for the need to replace and upgrade
many
> items, but it is the deck problem that has us in a quandry...
>
> Thus far my research and your responses have shown three distinct
approaches
> to repairing the decks:
> 1) drill holes on a 1" a grid in the damaged areas, dry thoroughtly,
then
> fill with epoxy and sand/refinish
> 2) cutout and retain top skin (remove all rotted core attached),
remove
> damaged core, sand down to lower skin, replace with new core
material (foam
> or plywood) refill with resin to the correct level, replace and
fair-in the
> old skin, and repaint surface as needed
> 3) Cut-out area, remove damaged core, replace with foam or wood and
rebuild
> glass deck.
>
> Of these, it would seem to me that the second choice might make the
most
> sense as long as the original skin was in fairly good shape.  This
would
> largely preserve the original contours and molded non-skid and
reduce the
> fairing and surface areas requiring rebuild to look good.   Any
thoughts in
> comparing these approaches?  And again, does anyone know of a way to
find an
> individual tradesperson who might help us with the repairs?
>
> I'll stop cluttering up the cyberwaves now...
>
> Thanks All
>
>
>
>
> Paloma L. Hawry, Partner
> Actoras Consulting Group
> 1821 Walden Office Square Suite 400
> Schaumburg, IL 60173
> Office:  (847) 622-8812
> Cell: (847) 274-3086
> Fax: (847)631-0869
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:	public-list-admin at alberg30.org [mailto:public-list-
admin at alberg30.org]
> On Behalf Of greg
> Sent:	Thursday, January 31, 2002 5:03 PM
> To:	public-list at alberg30.org
> Subject:	Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
>
> I may regret sticking my nose in here. Having been involved in the
repair of
> such
> things on our 1968 A30 #312. We have replaced our cockpit soul and
repaired
> side
> deck de lamination in areas of the non skid with good result. It is
not as
> scary
> as it looks... just time consuming. We did not cut away the wet de-
laminated
> areas  of the deck  ( not true of the cockpit sole) but drilled 1/4
inch
> holes on
> a 1 inch grid over the wet areas and then with lamps dried the areas
till
> the
> moisture meter showed an acceptable content. We then injected as
much epoxy
> resin
> as the delaminated area would except and filled and smoothed the
area with
> thickened epoxy. Over which we applied a new non skid surface with
mron(sp)
> and
> Awlgrip's silica. We did this on the entire deck  and cockpit. It
looked
> great
> when complete. Drying was not a fast process it took days and the
project
> took
> alot of time away from sailing.
>
> Kindest Regards- Greg
>
> PS: I'm in west Michigan if you want to talk. 616 454 5225
> PPS: Same for the cockpit sole.
>
> "Paloma L. Hawry" wrote:
>
>  >
>  > We need to let the owner know soon if we are willing to purchase
the boat
>  > and tackle this work.  Our expectation is that we are looking at
deck
>  > repairs anywhere between $2000 and $7000 range - assuming we do
some of
> the
>  > work ourselves. (We are handy and willing to do much of the prep
and
>  > painting/finish work, but haven't got the experience or
sufficient time
> for
>  > the structural work).  As we are on a very tight budget, we can't
afford
>  > major surprises beyond that range.
>  >
>
>
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Remember, an Alberg 35 was not built by Whitby.

John Bailey
"Zevulun" #33

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