[Alberg30] Deck Repairs

[Gord Laco]

I've done the same job - I dip the screws in margerine to keep the epoxy
from holding them.

Gord
KC426 Surprise
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian and Elaine Timmins <timmins at optonline.net>
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2002 5:07 PM
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs


> Bill,
>    Drilling into the deck where it is delaminated or the core is rotted is
> easy. The top layer of fiberglass is only 1/8 - 3/16" or so. You'll know
for
> sure after one or two holes. When the drill bit penetrates the skin,
you'll
> feel the difference because then it's drilling air (or rotted core which
> feels like air). The hard part is stopping before you go further. If
you're
> used to using a drill, it's easy. If you're not, you will be quickly. For
> any holes that make it through the lower skin, I recommend using polyester
> putty (Bondo or Body fill stuff) to close the hole. It works better than
> most tapes.
>    I suggest using a 3/16" bit. When you finally get to inject the epoxy,
> start at the lowest point and keep injecting until it starts to come out
of
> other holes. When that happens, put a #10 sheet metal screw (only use
brand
> new screws) into the hole where the epoxy is coming out, and keep
injecting
> into that same hole if possible. It's better to fill the voids from the
> bottom up. If you use brand new screws to close the holes as they get
full,
> the oil from manufacturing will prevent the epoxy from bonding to them. If
> you use old screws, or heavily handled screws, they may become part of the
> deck forever.
>    Good luck, it's easier than it sounds.
> Brian    #497
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Furey, Bill (CORP)" <bill.furey at corporate.ge.com>
> To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
> Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2002 11:23 AM
> Subject: RE: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
>
>
> > Hi Greg: I have an Alberg 35 with some wet areas. two questions:
> > 1. how deep for the holes & can you tell readily that you have'nt
drilled
> > too far?
> > 2. How can I get &how much, what brand etc for a moisture meter.
> > thks.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: greg [mailto:greg at vandenbergphoto.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 6:03 PM
> > To: public-list at alberg30.org
> > Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
> >
> >
> > I may regret sticking my nose in here. Having been involved in the
repair
> of
> > such
> > things on our 1968 A30 #312. We have replaced our cockpit soul and
> repaired
> > side
> > deck de lamination in areas of the non skid with good result. It is not
as
> > scary
> > as it looks... just time consuming. We did not cut away the wet
> de-laminated
> > areas  of the deck  ( not true of the cockpit sole) but drilled 1/4 inch
> > holes on
> > a 1 inch grid over the wet areas and then with lamps dried the areas
till
> > the
> > moisture meter showed an acceptable content. We then injected as much
> epoxy
> > resin
> > as the delaminated area would except and filled and smoothed the area
with
> > thickened epoxy. Over which we applied a new non skid surface with
> mron(sp)
> > and
> > Awlgrip's silica. We did this on the entire deck  and cockpit. It looked
> > great
> > when complete. Drying was not a fast process it took days and the
project
> > took
> > alot of time away from sailing.
> >
> > Kindest Regards- Greg
> >
> > PS: I'm in west Michigan if you want to talk. 616 454 5225
> > PPS: Same for the cockpit sole.
> >
> > "Paloma L. Hawry" wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > We need to let the owner know soon if we are willing to purchase the
> boat
> > > and tackle this work.  Our expectation is that we are looking at deck
> > > repairs anywhere between $2000 and $7000 range - assuming we do some
of
> > the
> > > work ourselves. (We are handy and willing to do much of the prep and
> > > painting/finish work, but haven't got the experience or sufficient
time
> > for
> > > the structural work).  As we are on a very tight budget, we can't
afford
> > > major surprises beyond that range.
> > >
> >
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