[Alberg30] Deck Repairs

Mon Feb 4 16:45:55 PST 2002

I agree that this has been a very informative and helpful thread...The Pearson
list server has archives that have extensive first hand, "How to" and How it
came out" stories from many first hand experiences with Pearson boats - many of
the older ones suffered from horrible deck afflictions!

Scott Wallace

John Birch wrote:

> It is possible one of you had delamination (dry delamination due to many
> factors, most likely a dry lay-up - not enough resin)
> as opposed to punky core rot, which I agree, will not dryout from simply
> drilling holes - you really have to open it up and dig all the shot core out
> and all the water. Whitby made it worse because they often put balsa pieces
> in with gaps between which enhanced water flow. Kind of like laying blocks
> with spaces. I am fairly confident that for a time that was the way much of
> the industry behaved. Certainly the masonite decks were the better product
> and should be much less of a problem.
>
> However if you want real horror stories, our club had a 10 year old Hunter
> 37. I measured the boat and thought something was wrong with the meter - it
> showed wet all over. When the deck came up it was soaked from bow to stern -
> not one hatch or fitting had any caulking what so ever. AND it was plywood -
> black mushy plywood, what a drama.
>
> I agree with the Pearson 35  person, if it is really wet in there, drilling
> holes won't work - if it is slightly damp - perhaps. If it is just
> delamination - yes, but use a runny epoxy and becareful of an exothermic
> reaction with too much epoxy (aka excessive heat).
>
> This has been a great thread. Hope all are well.
>
> Cheers,
>
> John
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian and Elaine Timmins" <timmins at optonline.net>
> To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
> Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 4:44 PM
> Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
>
> > When I did my foredeck, The boat was indoors, but not heated. I would
> start
> > up either one or two Origo Alcohol heaters in the V berth area every time
> I
> > went to the boat (if it was over 40`, I was there after work, or all day).
> I
> > drilled the holes in December and did the epoxy injection by the end of
> May.
> > The core was giving me relatively dry samples before I started the
> > injection. Five or six years later, it's still fine.
> > Brian   #497
> > P.S. I like the margerine idea, but can't vouch for it personally.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Berube5" <Berube5 at cox.net>
> > To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
> > Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 3:21 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
> >
> >
> > > Bill,
> > >
> > > A word of caution- Pearson used balsa in the construction of their
> decks.
> > > From personal experience I can tell you that the "drill and dry" method
> is
> > > not a rapid repair- time wise.
> > >
> > > Balsa holds moisture tenaciously. I have drilled a pattern of holes into
> > the
> > > core in the manner that others have suggested. My boat has been stored
> > > indoors and heated for over a year. After NINE months of "drying out" I
> > > could still pull up wet drill cores of balsa after drilling new test
> > holes.
> > >
> > > I used the heat lamp approach- to little effect. You also need to be
> > careful
> > > not to overheat the fiberglass- Don Casey says that if it is too hot to
> > > touch- it is too hot. Obviously, if the boat is outdoors it will not dry
> > out
> > > if the decks are frozen.
> > >
> > > I don't want to discourage you- but it is important be realistic and
> > > patient. A job like this should not be rushed. An epoxy repair will not
> > work
> > > if the core is still wet.
> > >
> > > Good luck,
> > >
> > > Dana Berube
> > > 1960 Pearson Triton (balsa core deck)
> > >
> > > On 02/04/2002 13:40, "Furey, Bill (CORP)" <bill.furey at corporate.ge.com>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Bria & Gord: Thanks-the drying process may be tricky-the boat
> > > > is uncovered(reason for the problem in the first place)I guess
> > > > wait for a dry weather pattern, drill holes, & rig lamps?
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Gord Laco [mailto:gord at transatmarine.com]
> > > > Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 8:32 AM
> > > > To: public-list at alberg30.org
> > > > Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I've done the same job - I dip the screws in margerine to keep the
> epoxy
> > > > from holding them.
> > > >
> > > > Gord
> > > > KC426 Surprise
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: Brian and Elaine Timmins <timmins at optonline.net>
> > > > To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
> > > > Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2002 5:07 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >> Bill,
> > > >>    Drilling into the deck where it is delaminated or the core is
> rotted
> > is
> > > >> easy. The top layer of fiberglass is only 1/8 - 3/16" or so. You'll
> > know
> > > > for
> > > >> sure after one or two holes. When the drill bit penetrates the skin,
> > > > you'll
> > > >> feel the difference because then it's drilling air (or rotted core
> > which
> > > >> feels like air). The hard part is stopping before you go further. If
> > > > you're
> > > >> used to using a drill, it's easy. If you're not, you will be quickly.
> > For
> > > >> any holes that make it through the lower skin, I recommend using
> > polyester
> > > >> putty (Bondo or Body fill stuff) to close the hole. It works better
> > than
> > > >> most tapes.
> > > >>    I suggest using a 3/16" bit. When you finally get to inject the
> > epoxy,
> > > >> start at the lowest point and keep injecting until it starts to come
> > out
> > > > of
> > > >> other holes. When that happens, put a #10 sheet metal screw (only use
> > > > brand
> > > >> new screws) into the hole where the epoxy is coming out, and keep
> > > > injecting
> > > >> into that same hole if possible. It's better to fill the voids from
> the
> > > >> bottom up. If you use brand new screws to close the holes as they get
> > > > full,
> > > >> the oil from manufacturing will prevent the epoxy from bonding to
> them.
> > If
> > > >> you use old screws, or heavily handled screws, they may become part
> of
> > the
> > > >> deck forever.
> > > >>    Good luck, it's easier than it sounds.
> > > >> Brian    #497
> > > >> ----- Original Message -----
> > > >> From: "Furey, Bill (CORP)" <bill.furey at corporate.ge.com>
> > > >> To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
> > > >> Sent: Sunday, February 03, 2002 11:23 AM
> > > >> Subject: RE: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >>> Hi Greg: I have an Alberg 35 with some wet areas. two questions:
> > > >>> 1. how deep for the holes & can you tell readily that you have'nt
> > > > drilled
> > > >>> too far?
> > > >>> 2. How can I get &how much, what brand etc for a moisture meter.
> > > >>> thks.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> -----Original Message-----
> > > >>> From: greg [mailto:greg at vandenbergphoto.com]
> > > >>> Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 6:03 PM
> > > >>> To: public-list at alberg30.org
> > > >>> Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Repairs
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>> I may regret sticking my nose in here. Having been involved in the
> > > > repair
> > > >> of
> > > >>> such
> > > >>> things on our 1968 A30 #312. We have replaced our cockpit soul and
> > > >> repaired
> > > >>> side
> > > >>> deck de lamination in areas of the non skid with good result. It is
> > not
> > > > as
> > > >>> scary
> > > >>> as it looks... just time consuming. We did not cut away the wet
> > > >> de-laminated
> > > >>> areas  of the deck  ( not true of the cockpit sole) but drilled 1/4
> > inch
> > > >>> holes on
> > > >>> a 1 inch grid over the wet areas and then with lamps dried the areas
> > > > till
> > > >>> the
> > > >>> moisture meter showed an acceptable content. We then injected as
> much
> > > >> epoxy
> > > >>> resin
> > > >>> as the delaminated area would except and filled and smoothed the
> area
> > > > with
> > > >>> thickened epoxy. Over which we applied a new non skid surface with
> > > >> mron(sp)
> > > >>> and
> > > >>> Awlgrip's silica. We did this on the entire deck  and cockpit. It
> > looked
> > > >>> great
> > > >>> when complete. Drying was not a fast process it took days and the
> > > > project
> > > >>> took
> > > >>> alot of time away from sailing.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Kindest Regards- Greg
> > > >>>
> > > >>> PS: I'm in west Michigan if you want to talk. 616 454 5225
> > > >>> PPS: Same for the cockpit sole.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> "Paloma L. Hawry" wrote:
> > > >>>
> > > >>>>
> > > >>>> We need to let the owner know soon if we are willing to purchase
> the
> > > >> boat
> > > >>>> and tackle this work.  Our expectation is that we are looking at
> deck
> > > >>>> repairs anywhere between $2000 and $7000 range - assuming we do
> some
> > > > of
> > > >>> the
> > > >>>> work ourselves. (We are handy and willing to do much of the prep
> and
> > > >>>> painting/finish work, but haven't got the experience or sufficient
> > > > time
> > > >>> for
> > > >>>> the structural work).  As we are on a very tight budget, we can't
> > > > afford
> > > >>>> major surprises beyond that range.
> > > >>>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
>
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