[Alberg30] A30 mast support beam

[Dan Morley]

Wow!, Mike,
    I intend to undertake this repair within 5 weeks, and the information you
have provided will be extremely helpful.  Many thanks for taking the time to
pass it on.
Dan Morley (#322)

Mike Lehman wrote:

> OK, I am caught up now and can spend some time talking about the beam repair
> to the A30.
>
> First let me reinforce what George has already stated: this repair was
> designed by Bruce Rankin who was a professor of engineering at the US Naval
> Academy. Bruce, more than anyone I have ever met, could tell you the sheer
> strength of just about any material just by looking at it. Bob Marshall,
> original owner of #215, also deserves a lot of credit, since he started this
> with some early reinforcement plates over 25 years ago. To the best of my
> knowledge, over 100 Albergs have had this repair and it has withstood the
> test of time on boats that are raced hard (i.e. 28 knots on the deck, gusts
> to 35, full main and #1 genoa).
>
> Having said that, I am not saying there isn't a better way...but I know this
> one works and is permanent. The job is about a 10 hour project.
>
> The mast does not have to be removed. The shrouds need to be loosened
> considerably. As you use a house jack to crank the beam back into place, you
> will need to check the shrouds because it is surprising how much they
> tighten as the beam is raised. It is not uncommon to find a beam that is
> 2"-2-1/2" deflected on boats that have been raced hard. Care should be taken
> to make sure you spread the load both top and bottom with several layers of
> 2x6's, otherwise you will crush the cabin sole (with or without the mast in
> place). It is advisable, although not necessary, to crank the beam back in
> stages...a couple of turns today, a couple of turns next weekend, etc.
> (depends on how strong you are).
>
> Once you are satisfied that the beam is positioned to the original spot
> (check it with the curve/spacing of the door), you can make a template from
> cardboard. This was not difficult. The after plate is 54"[?] (doing this
> from memory)and the forward plate was 51"[?]. The important part, of course,
> is the top curve and the angle on the ends. Trim the cardboard until you are
> pleased with the fit, then tape into place and simply trace the bottom
> curve. I made the templates about 1/8" narrower than the beam itself. The
> aluminum plates themselves will need 'touch up' with a belt sander, because
> nothing ever fits exactly the way it is supposed to, plus you will want to
> 'knock off' the sharp edges. From the reports I have gotten the plates
> provided from my template by Washington Aluminum seems to fit pretty well.
>
> Now that you have a template, it's time to find the aluminum for the job. I
> used 0.50" 6061 grade aluminum and found that it was nearly as expensive to
> buy the raw aluminum and cut it myself as it was to have it professionally
> cut using a water jet process by Washington Aluminum. I spend a whole
> afternoon on the phone looking for local sources and advice from machine
> shops and finally decided on Washington Aluminum, becuase they were local
> and had the experience and the price was reasonable.
>
> Using the belt sander, you can trim the plates until you are satisfied with
> the fit and you are now ready for permanent installation.
>
> All of the existing bolts can be removed from the beam (actually, you can do
> this early because it being supported by the jack). I decided that I did not
> want any additional holes in the beam, so planned to use the exisiting
> holes. Using several "C" clamps, clamp the first plate into place, and using
> a 1/4" x 6-1/2" drill bit, drill from the opposite side just enough to mark
> the plate. Remove the plate once all of the holes are marked, and drill the
> aluminum with 5/16" holes (I increased the bolt diameter because the
> original bolts were all bent). Drill the holes in the wood beam out to
> 5/16". Put the plate back in place using the bolts to hold it in position.
> Now clamp the opposite plate in place, and drill enough to mark it just like
> you did the first one. Once everything is drilled put it all together *dry*
> to make sure everything is going to fit.
>
> I used West System aluminum etch to wash the plates so I would have a good
> bond with the epoxy. Mix up thickened epoxy, paint the wood beam liberally,
> getting it into the cracks as much as possible, work rapidly to bolt
> everything together. Clean up your mess and go have a beer.
>
> In a week or so you can remove the jack. Using a marine caulking, caulk all
> the edges, and when dry you are ready for paint. Walla - a permanent repair
> - now pay attention to where the forward lowers attach, because the loads
> are still there you have just transferred them to another part of the boat.
>
> Hope this helps, good luck.
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: "Furey, Bill (CORP)" <bill.furey at corporate.ge.com>
> Reply-To: public-list at alberg30.org
> To: "'public-list at alberg30.org'" <public-list at alberg30.org>
> Subject: RE: [Alberg30] A30 mast support beam
> Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 12:34:34 -0500
>
> George: couple of dumb(or maybe not) questions- 1. Can you jack the beam
> up(carefully)
> with the mast in place-if so-some tips,pls.
> 2. Assuming one uses the Washington Inc aluminum plates(they have them for
> my boat,
> A-35($285 a pair)- when you jack up the beam & fasten on the plates, to the
> beam-
> why won't the beam sag again(this from a non-engineer with a slight dislexic
> problem-
> maybe they're one & the same)I understand you glass or seal the extremities
> & the overhead,
> but is this enough??-thks.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: George Dinwiddie [mailto:gdinwiddie at min.net]
> Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 11:52 AM
> To: public-list at alberg30.org
> Subject: Re: [Alberg30] A30 mast support beam
>
> Dan,
>
> Jan Grodzinski posted (on the member list) a company that digitized
> and cut the plates for him.  I've copied the company address to
> http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/disorganized/deckbeam/repair.html
>
>   - George
>
>  > Dan Morley said:
>  >
>  > I have been speaking with Kirk from Washington Aluminum, regarding
>  > aluminum plates to reinforce the mast support beam of my 1968 A30.  The
>  > shipping / customs procedures for shipping to Canada are expensive and
>  > awkward - not to mention the very unfavourable $ exchange!  My beam does
>  > not appear to have sagged at all, but is just starting to delaminate.
>  > Thus, I think I could use my exisitng beam as a template, and have the
>  > plates manufactured locally (but might this be a bad idea?).   I am
>  > wondering, however, if there is a chance someone out there already has
>  > templates for the repair plates?
>  > Thanks
>  > Dan Morley (#322)
>
> --
>   ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>    George Dinwiddie                             gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
>    The gods do not deduct from man's allotted span those hours spent in
>    sailing.                                    http://www.Alberg30.org/
>   ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
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