[Alberg30] holding tanks
Scott
a30sailor at home.com
Mon Jan 7 14:40:17 PST 2002
I did a small article some time back on a holding tank for hull # 487. It
has worked flawlessly- dont have the diagram that was originally included
but have posted the article here..........
Alberg 30 Workshop
By... Scott Maury #487
Topic: Holding Tank Installation
I know this subject has been around for many more years than I have been an
owner, but last winter I managed to install a holding tank for the head thus
complying with current Coast Guard regulations. Many questions of what
type, where to locate, size and shape were long thought of. The end result
is a 10-gallon polyethylene tank located directly behind the head in the
lower portion of the locker.
Before we get started, let's not forget that on #487 we have an interior
liner and perhaps on older boats things may be different.
ITEMS NEEDED
KRACOR holding tank port 5106 #KRA275310p note: This tank must be ordered
with fittings located in specific locations other than the original OEM
layout. We will discuss further.
1.5" Waste fitting for deck pump out.
Tank vent fitting.
Par "Y" Waste fitting.
Forspar 1.5" Vented loop.
1.5" sanitation hose length aprox 12'.
1/2" vent hose length 3'.
s/s hose clamps.
4 feet of 1.5" angle aluminum iron.
Misc. cleat stock wood 1"x 1".
Misc. s/s hardware.
1. Lets get the tank ordered. The number above is the tank needed. I
ordered this tank at fawcetts, here in Annapolis. They have notes on the
tank layout and I have included a diagram. I have inverted the tank and
requested the fitting layout as shown. Notice that I have ordered the tank
with an optional 1.5" outlet on the bottom. This is for a macerator pump,
which could fit under the tank and is optional. The diagram included is
from the original purchase order.
2. Get ready...Close seacocks or ball valves to head if boat is afloat.
Removal of the double door set to the head is a necessity. Remove head from
its perch by removing supply hose and exhaust hose and removing the four
mounting screws at the base. Next remove the locker panel with 2 vertical
doors and 1 lower horizontal door along with all personal items located in
the locker. Struggle to remove the old exhaust hose from the boat. This is
hard because it travels through two shelves to form a loop above the
waterline. Once every thing old is removed, we must remove the lower shelf.
Don't worry if you think you will lose this much-needed space, for loss is
minimal and the new tank top will act as your lower shelf.
3. With tank in hand, place tank with top about 5 inches below upper shelf
bottom. The left side must be kept butted to the left (main salon bulkhead).
Sketch out at rear right side on the liner knee that will be needed to be
cut out. This small cutout is necessary in order to allow the tank to set
more outboard to allow the locker panel to be replaced back on the cleats.
A small jig saw with a fine metal blade cuts this liner like butter. While
we have the saw working we must also enlarge our holes in the top shelve to
allow at least three 1.5' hoses to pass through. Set the tank in place and
check for plumpness. If your cutout is neat, the tank will rest in place
with the left side on the bulkhead behind the locker panel cleat. Scribe
lines that make the bottom plane and cut and install cleats to help carry
the load of the tank on the bulkhead and the liner portion not cut out. The
tank must be mounted back at least 1/4" of space from the locker panel
cleats to allow the angle aluminum stock to carry the load on the front
bottom and top. Cut the stock to width to span the distance between both
bulkheads, approx. 2'. Drill holes at ether side on both the aluminum
pieces and through the locker panel cleats. I used a countersunk bore on the
cleats so the mounting bolt heads would not interfere with the locker panel.
I also used sticky backed closed cell foam to line the aluminum stock to
avoid squeaks from tank mounting. Do not install tank until you have done
most of the pluming needed.
4. Install the deck waste fitting as so to align the hose to be followed
down the right side of the tank. Notice that with this tank we have approx.
2" of clearance to the right of the tank to run all of the hoses necessary.
Yes this is a tight fit, but with patience it can be done. Install the tank
vent on the hull side with the vent holes themselves facing aft. Install a
90 elbow on NPT outlet (F). Set tank into place with all of the fittings
tightened and positioned as in the diagram. Temporarily install the vented
loop and the "Y" valve as high as possible on the forward bulkhead. Notice
I have used a very small piece of hose to attach the valve and loop together
with the valve attached on the inboard side of the loop. Spec out all the
hose lengths and begin assembling the whole system. Soap helps to get hoses
on to fittings.
After all was said and done, I just could not but back the original leaky
Bydon Boy head. I installed a new ITT PAR manual head. I have worked on
many boats over the years and have come to the conclusion that this is the
best low cost manual head. It is very easy to pump. It has been a full
year and I have not experienced any problems. Good luck and if you have
more questions look me up.
SM
-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-admin at alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-admin at alberg30.org]On Behalf Of CHRIS HARDY
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 1:59 PM
To: public-list at alberg30.org
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] holding tanks
Please use a reasonable font size for messages these messages are
unreadable even with glasses and binoculars....:-)
Dave Terrell wrote:
I suspected as much. I thought the fit would be too tight if you intake
and outtake were to be on the top. this is my preference. Thanks for the
response.
>>> sail_505 at hotmail.com 01/04/02 08:15AM >>>
I seem to remember trying the 5022 initially, but after making a
full-sized
cardboard tempalate of the tank, discarded it because it was too big.
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Andy Rankin" <andy at rankinweb.com>
Reply-To: public-list at alberg30.org
To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
Subject: RE: [Alberg30] holding tanks
Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 18:19:29 -0500
Last summer I started working on putting together a group purchase in
the Annapolis area for holding tanks. I was trying to get Kracor 5057s
through Fawcett's in Annapolis because that's what Mike Lehman had done
a few years back. I called and spoke to someone at Fawcett's - they had
some recollection of the last group purchase but said that they no
longer sell Kracor stuff. He told me that he might be able to work
something out and would call me back - unfortunately he never called me
back and I haven't followed up since.
I'm going to get back on that with the hopes of getting everything
figured out in time to be up and running with a new tank before the warm
weather comes back. I guess I'll start by calling back to Fawcett's.
Checking my past emails I see that Mike Lehman definitely used the 5057
model and got a group rate of $105.60 back in March of '97. I'm not
sure how many were in the group though. I think Mike has pictures of
his tank installation. Also, there are issues with whether or not you
have an older or newer boat.
The archives of this list from early last September should have a lot of
posts on this topic.
If you're in the Annapolis area let me know and I'll keep you posted on
my group purchase progress.
Good luck,
Andy Rankin
LinGin #244
-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-admin at alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-admin at alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Dave Terrell
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 3:28 PM
To: public-list at alberg30.org
Subject: [Alberg30] holding tanks
I am new Alberg 30 and am in search of a holding tank for my boat. I
have reviewed the materials from last year on this topic and would like
to share my experience so far on this matter.
1. The information in the Alberg 30 Maintenance Manual appears to be
confused when compared with the current Kracor catalogue.
The catalogue says that mold 5057 holds 15.5 gallons or 58.8 liters.
Mold 5022 holds 17 gallons or 64.4 liters
It looks like the manual writers wanted to say that 5022 will fit in the
Alberg 30. They just got the capacity wrong.
I make a template (not a full scale mock up) for both and it appears
that both will fit.
2. Kracor as advertized is expensive for a one of a kind basis. Their
price was in the $380.00 range.
3. Sealand tanks are available for through Northeast Marine Sanitation.
They have the equivalent of the Kracor 5057 (15 gallons) for $235.00. If
you want the outlet on the top the price goes up to $281.43 and with
shipping to about $294.00
4. Ronco does not seem to make a tank that will fit in the port side of
the boat. They do make a bow tank B102 HD which will go in the bow but
might require some modification of the bulkhead to make it fit.
Delivered with the fittings where you like for about $100. The capacity
is 13 gallons.
5. Raritan makes the equivalent of the Kracor 5057 (15 gallons). The
walls are 3/8 like Sealand so it might hold a little less. Raritan rates
it at 14 gallons. The model number is 14d208014. the price with the
fittings where I want them is $176.00 I have to purchase the elbows,
etc. They also sell the equivalent of the Ronco B102 for the bow of the
boat for $172.00.
6. If you purchase the Raritan tank through defender you can save
another 15 % and te
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