[Alberg30] Deck Repairs

[Scott Wallace]

Paloma,

RELAX!!! Don't let the moisture meter of Dr. Doom turn your good efforts into
paranoia!  Most boats even ten years old have areas that have proven to not be
impenetrable from water!  Ya know, the boat sits in water, heels in water and
gets lots of rain and snow in Northern climes.  I found out a Alberg Electra from
1963  I sold to a couple had some evidence of soaked core in the cabin top,
something I never suspected nor would have imagined.  They were obviously
concerned, but all things are relative.  I sailed Spindrift in 30 knot winds with
6 foot waves on Lake Erie when a Swede 55 was the ONLY other boat in site.  Did
the moisture problem mean the coach roof would rip off and sink the boat?  Of
course not!  The top still had structural integrity due to the monocque effect of
the thick fiberglass skin with compound curves and areas of intact core.  The
real question you need to ask is:

"How important of an issue is this leak business?"

"Would I rather sail or fix the boat?"

"When is the problem fixed 'good enough'?"

If you have any skills at all, don't think you will find a sucker to fix your
boat to your standards for a relatively reasonable price, fix it your selve.  It
is reasonably simple, it will save you THOUSANDS of DOLLARS and you will have the
satisfaction, when you round the horn, that your boat is solid enough since YOU
both fixed it yourself.
I never have other people work on my boat, I fix her myself.

The feedback you have been given on this list is solid.  I would either drill
many holes, develop a grid pattern that reveals the worst areas, then you fix the
worse first.  Also your idea of removing the outer skin, rotted core and replace
old skin with epoxy, then blend and fair is solid, too, and maybe more
comprehensive that the multiple holes....

I am getting ready to buy either a Philip L. Rhodes Seafarer Ranger,a beautiful
boat 25' LOD, or a great little 24' LOD Allied Seawind fullkeel boat.  Both are
guarenteed to have tons of deck and cockpit rot under the fiberglass skin.  Both
boats will require way more work than your Alberg 35, yet I am not daunted.  The
Rhodes even needs it's wooden mast taken apart, cleaned, spliced and rebuilt.
Not only is it great fun sailing these classic plastics, but it's not a bad
exercise in visioning and actually doing the renewal work.  It is a great
combination of powerful INTUITION and SENSING...

Good Luck,

Scott Wallace, BLUENOSE 24, HELL-DIVER

Paloma L. Hawry wrote:

> I know this is an Alber30 site, but we are considering purchase of an Alberg
> 35, and would like some help in making a final decision.  She has been
> fairly neglected, is available for a very low price and has many good
> features.  The hull is sound, but the survey disclosed fairly extensive
> "wet" areas on the side decks where the stanchions have been allowed to leak
> for some time.  We are willing and able to do many repairs, but would like
> to find someone to help us estimate the work, and assist us with the actual
> effort to repair the deck properly (for a reasonable price).  Ideally we
> would like to find an individual who could work on her in a Chicago area
> boatyard, we would consider sailing her to a Wisconsin or Michigan port
> within a 4-5 hours drive from Chicago.
>
> We need to let the owner know soon if we are willing to purchase the boat
> and tackle this work.  Our expectation is that we are looking at deck
> repairs anywhere between $2000 and $7000 range - assuming we do some of the
> work ourselves. (We are handy and willing to do much of the prep and
> painting/finish work, but haven't got the experience or sufficient time for
> the structural work).  As we are on a very tight budget, we can't afford
> major surprises beyond that range.
>
> We have always loved Albergs and have fallen in love with this particular
> boat and its layout (dinette)  my husband and sons are all over 6'3" and we
> need the somewhat larger boat.
>
> Alternatively, if anyone is aware of another Alberg 35 on Lake Michigan that
> is for sale, let us know.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:   public-list-admin at alberg30.org [mailto:public-list-admin at alberg30.org]
> On Behalf Of Jay Davenport
> Sent:   Thursday, January 31, 2002 2:19 PM
> To:     public-list at alberg30.org
> Subject:        Re: [Alberg30] holding tanks
>
> Dave,
> I installed the Kracor tank in my boat,hull #526. It
> fit rather well, but I don't know if I had 3" clear on
> the top. I used 90 degree elbows that screwed into the
> top fittings, and they cleared the lid OK.
> Jay Davenport
> Revolution, #526
> --- Dave Terrell
> <DTERRELL.GWSTAFF.GWNMC at message.nmc.edu> wrote:
> > I am getting really serious about ordering a holding
> > tank for my alberg 30. Here is my question. If one
> > uses the kracor 5057 or its equivalent and makes the
> > 12.5 x 22 plane the top of the tank, when the tank
> > is installed under the port v-berth, how much
> > clearance is there between the top of the tank and
> > the wood piece that covers the holding tank
> > compartment? I need about 3 inches and , based on
> > the photos on the website, it looks like there is
> > enough room, but I would like to hear from someone
> > who has installed one so I will know for sure.
> > Making a mistake would be very expensive.I have hull
> > 432.
> >
> > Looking forward to getting some  updated
> > information. Thanks in advance.
> >
> >
> >
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