[Alberg30] Deck Coring

[C.B. Currier]

George,

What thickness do you use for the foam?

Also what is your method for doing the Noskid? Use paint or
stickers ???

C.B.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: public-list-admin at alberg30.org
> [mailto:public-list-admin at alberg30.org]On Behalf Of George Dinwiddie
> Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2002 10:52 AM
> To: public-list at alberg30.org
> Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Deck Coring
>
>
> I don't trust option 1 for the long term.  For one thing, it's
> very hard to get the core really dry, and epoxy doesn't bond
> very well to water.  I'm not sure how well it bonds to shreds
> of dirty rotten core, either.  Actually, I'm sure it will bond
> to that, but that may get in the way of good bonding to the
> glass.  And you still generally end up having to do major
> cosmetic work when you're done.
>
> I also don't know why you've already decided on epoxy resin?  Why?
>
> My choice was Klegecell for the core.  I don't have the part number
> handy, but it was the highest density foam core sold by Fiberglass
> Coatings, Inc.  I get the flat sheets and cut as needed.  I bedded
> the core in polyester resing thickened (mayonaise) with one of the
> W.E.S.T. products, cabosil, or glass beads.
>
> For the layup, I used a mat/cloth/mat schedule using (from memory,
> not guaranteed) 1.5 oz. mat and 8 oz. cloth.  I continued to add
> layers of mat on top until I reached the level I needed.  Of course,
> you won't be able to use this schedule if you use epoxy, as the
> binders in the mat is incompatible with epoxy resins.
>
> People often assume (I certainly used to.) that epoxy is better
> than polyester.  Not necessarily so.  It has advantages and
> disadvantages.
>
> In my experience, and in the advice of Tim Silvio (the best glass
> man I know), epoxy resins are trickier to work with.  You need to
> be precise in your measurements and you have to adjust by using
> different hardeners, not by adjusting the amount of hardener.
> Polyester, on the other hand, is pretty forgiving.  For the
> amateur, I think it's a clear winner for most projects.  Even
> for the pro, I'm not sure it's cost-effective to put patches
> of epoxy layup on a polyester boat.
>
> If you want some hands-on lessons, you can come over.  I've still
> got some small areas that need attention. ;-)  The areas I've done,
> lower deckhouse, lazarette and cockpit sole, are rock-solid.
>
>  - George
>
> > C.B. Currier said:
> >
> > One of my boats Daybreak #458 has evidently had severe deck
> core rotting to
> > the point where It should be repaired(extreme
> spongieness/flexing of deck).
> > I have been evaluating this for the past year and have not
> really come up
> > with a decisive direction to move in. It is a shame since the actual
> > majority of the deck looks good. I mean - the deck flexes on
> the foredeck
> > appreciably and in the stern. No flex on top of the cabin or
> along the rail
> > port & starboard.
> >
> > I know that the two options really open to me are as follows:
> >
> > 1. drill, rout, fill w/epoxy-microfibers compound all over the place
> >
> > 2. Cut off the deck secion by section, put new core (foam: which type ?)
> > epoxy in, glass over - apply noskid
> >
> > the Question:
> >     is #1 a good reliable cheap way of doing this repair,
> regardless of the
> > issue of leaving the old rotten remains of the core ? Has any
> one done this
> > job lets say in the past ten years and had poor results? How about good
> > results?
> >
> >     If I go with # 2 which foam and glass should I use, how thick? I am
> > already resolved to using MAAS epoxy so the other details are
> more important
> > to me.
>
> --
>  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>   George Dinwiddie                             gdinwiddie at alberg30.org
>   The gods do not deduct from man's allotted span those hours spent in
>   sailing.                                    http://www.Alberg30.org/
>  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
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