[Alberg30] Re: Plastic Boat Sheds
Gary Barker
eyewander at prexar.com
Thu Dec 4 10:11:54 PST 2003
Henry,
I kept Sowelu under a canopy for a year. It worked out well. Try this
site. http://www.canopymasters.com/index.html I closed in the ends
and had it set up next to my barn. Never sailed away one me. It is
set up with electrical conduit that you can get at home depot. A 36x12
seemed to work well.
Just a thought,
Regards,
Gary Barker
On Thursday, Dec 4, 2003, at 12:37 US/Eastern, Henry Hilliard wrote:
> Don,
>
> Thank you for the comprehensive advice concerning plastic boat sheds,
> clearly you have the experience to back it up. If I have any further
> questions after I absorb the attached I"ll contact you directly.
>
> much obliged,
>
> Henry Hilliard
> "Celeste" #394
>
> ---
>
>
>
> From:
> Don Campbell
> <dk.campbell at sympatico.ca> [add to address book] [protect or block
> sender]
> Subject:
> Re: [Alberg30] plastic boat
> sheds & Don Cambell's comments
> To:
> island_light at lycos.com, Alberg
> 30 public list <public-list at alberg30.org>
> Reply To:
> dk.campbell at sympatico.ca,
> Alberg 30 public list<public-list at alberg30.org>
>
>
> Henry;
> There are two things necessary with
> the greenhouse. The first
> is to have it really secure to the
> earth. I have 3 on the farm that
> are really greenhouses and have lost one
> when one end opened in
> a gale and lifted 48 - 36" pegs out of
> the ground. Just a few sandbags
> won't do if you need to close the ends.
> If you are on pavement,
> get out the Hilti and use extra long
> nails. It may be easier and
> cheaper but cooler to add 12 or 16 feet
> to each end of the length
> so rain won't blow in and not bother
> closing the ends. The only
> thing you need worry about then is the
> lift off the plastic similar
> to lift off a sail with wind. I have
> used this set up for rain shelters
> on my wheat research and it worked well
> with all ground stakes 36"
> into soil. It is possible to use
> hurricane ties to eyes in
> the soil to help hold the frame.
> The second thing that needs to be
> done is really good attachment
> of the plastic to the walls of the
> frame. If you are using horticultural
> plastic, 6 mil is quite stiff and
> normally UV stable. I would have
> thought 4 mil sufficient for a temporary
> structure. Don't count
> on reusing the plastic, even the 6 mil
> material. You can reuse the
> structure if it is left intact, but the
> plastic will not
> move if you relocate the frame. You can
> see how much they want for
> the normal poly lock system they sell.
> It is ususally expensive
> so you might want to use 2 x 4 and then
> first strap the poly over
> the 2 x 4 and then restrap it on the top
> edge with a second strap.They
> will show you how to use srapping to
> attach plastic. they have done
> it themselves before poly lock was
> invented. Avoid sags in the
> plastic like the plague. Also keep the
> number of perlines to 3
> if possible.You will find that every
> drip of condensation will fall
> from the lowest point of the sag or
> where the plastic hits a perline.
> Once it starts, the surface tension is
> broken and yu get a small
> rivulet that will flow for seconds.
> Any loose attachment of the plastic
> sheet will allow for flapping
> in the wind and wear over the frame so
> holes will form. Most greenhouses
> are double poly and a fan blows air into
> the envelope to maintain
> pressure on the films so flapping is
> minimized..
> Plastic needs to be applied on a
> really calm day, usually first
> thing in the am or last thing at night.
> A quick attach system really
> helps and uneven or local pulling of the
> plastic will stretch it
> and cause bunching and sags where you
> don't want them. I like to
> have 4 or 5 people for a sheet of
> plastic that is 100' x 28'. Pull
> it down the centre top and let it fall
> free to both sides. Don't
> try to lift the sheet over from one
> side. It will stretch out of shape.
> As for ventilation, the louvers you
> suggest will do fine for
> air flow for condensation reduction but
> not elimination, and pressure
> equalization, but for painting, use a
> fan. This means that the air
> inlet (Doors) at one end need to be of
> sufficient cross-sectional
> area to allow enough air in to keep the
> fan at its optimum air volume.
> You will will want to change the air
> once every 3 or 4
> minutes at least. With plants in the
> greenhouse, we change air about
> every 1-2 minutes since temperature will
> rise 10 degrees for every
> 100 feet of length with sun on the house
> in 2 minutes. That is where
> no ends may work well - no restriction,
> and no fan needed. You need
> to look at the height the fan needs to
> be in the end to clear the
> painting area of fumes. My decks on
> boats in the shed are
> about 8 - 10 feet off the floor,
> depending on whether it is on the
> trailer or on a cradle. There is laminar
> flow in a greenhouse so
> put the fan at painting level. A 2
> speed fan motor is nice for warm days and extra air flow.
> Don't paint if there is a possibility of
> condensation forming on new paint. Good fortune.
> Don
>
> Henry Hilliard wrote:
>
>> I read Don Cambell's comments on plastic tenting (Vol 169, Issue
> 14) with interest as I am in the process
> of building a "greenhouse"
> boat shed and I plan on using a 6 mil
> material from a greenhouse
> supplier. Others in my area (Maine) have
> used this material with
> success yet cautioned me to install
> adequate venting - in their
> cases old house shutters up high at the
> ends to assure a flow of air.
>>
>> I intend to prep the deck and top sides over the winter and paint
> in the spring. Any advice or info from
> you Don others would be much appreciated.
>>
>> Henry Hilliard
>> "Celeste" #394
>
>
>
>
>
>
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