[Alberg30] Toe Rail/Hull/Deck Joint Bolts

[Gordon LACO]

Hi Bill,

I got fairly good at running down leaks in my old wooden boat - here is how
I dealt with leaks in scarfed joints...

Drill a hole as large as you can bear the sight of at 90 degrees to the
scarf, to the scarf.  Try not to go to much into the other piece of wood.
Fill the hole with epoxy - a syringe is great - keep putting it in until it
does not seem to be draining away any more.

Take the wooden plug that you have already made to fit the hole and tap it
in with a hammer.   That will create a fair deal of hydraulic pressure to
really force the epoxy into the tiny parts of the open joint where capillary
action has been sucking water in to drip on you.   Sand off the top of the
plug and the epoxy that has oozed out from the joint after it cures.

In places where I thought that there would be more working of the joint I
did the same procedure but used 3M 5200 instead of epoxy on the theory that
flexibility might be more effective than hold.  Both work.

Cheers - Gord
#426 Surprise

on 6/9/03 10:30 PM, Bill Newman at newman423 at sympatico.ca wrote:

> My Alberg is of 1967 vintage, #233 with a teak toe rail sitting on edge with
> plugged bolt holes every 15 inches or so.  During a long period of rain one of
> the bolts develops a drip.  At this particular bolt position a new piece of
> teak has been scarfed in by the previous owner to repair a damaged top section
> of this area of the toe rail.  The piece is only about 1 1/4 inches deep into
> the old rail and about 12 inches long.  Unfortunately, it happens to cover the
> offending leaking bolt hole.
> 
> Does anyone have any creative ideas of how to fix this short of removing the
> scarfed piece, which by the way, is superbly fitted? Also in this vintage, are
> the bolts that hold the toe rail, the only mechanical bond binding the hull
> and deck together?
> 
> Any information or suggestions will be appreciated.
> 
> Bill Newman
> Marion Rose III
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