[Alberg30] Toe rail

Mike Lehman sail_505 at hotmail.com
Wed Mar 19 11:00:07 PST 2003


Lincoln,

I have done this job on an older version [standup toerail] Alberg. I scarfed 
in a piece to replace a damaged section near the bow. The job was difficult, 
for me anyway. I think you need to remove the damaged section first so you 
can use it to get a profile for the new piece. There are many compound 
angles which makes it tough. It is narrower at the top than at the bottom; 
it leans outward so the bottom needs to be cut at an angle; then you boat 
curve thing going. You can get it close [a little oversized] then final fit 
when it is installed. The bolts run through the toe rail and through the 
deck-hull joint. The joint is glued with a waterproof glue [epoxy or 
resorcinol (sp?)] and the screws at angles for extra strength. Check how the 
sections of toe rails are joined and try to duplicate that joint. I would 
not try to replace the whole rail, becuase lack of carpentry skills [mine]. 
A table saw and lots of patience is needed.



Mike Lehman
"Gilleleje" #505





----Original Message Follows----
From: "Finkenberg, Lincoln S." <lsFinkenberg at bryancave.com>
Reply-To: Alberg 30 public list <public-list at alberg30.org>
To: "'public-list at alberg30.org'" <public-list at alberg30.org>
CC: "'lfinkenberg at nyc.rr.com'" <lfinkenberg at nyc.rr.com>
Subject: [Alberg30] Toe rail
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 11:38:27 -0600


	I need to replace the section of the toe rail where the bow chock
was.  Do I try to replace just the damaged portion or do I remove the entire
length back to the first joint I come across?  I won't put the bow chock
back on the toe rail - so maybe because it will not be under stress from
mooring lines and the like its not a big deal to replace just the damaged
portion?

	In removing just the damaged portion - if that route is not a
serious mistake - do I simply determine if that section is bolted down and
if so remove the bolts and then cut on either side of the portion I wish to
remove - cutting in such a fashion as to allow for a decent joint when I
install the new section of the toe rail?  What's the best type of joint for
the job. Is the joint doweled and epoxied?  Any must haves in terms of tools
and supplies that the average part time do it yourselfer probably does not
have?

	Is there a way to get a decent mold of the shape of the toe rail
that I need to replace so that when I'm working away from the boat I can get
the replacement pretty close - I'd rather not pull the old piece off prior
to molding the new piece.  Do I just measure and do the geometry or should I
really remove the section first and use that as a mold? I'd like to keep the
old piece on just in case things get ugly.

	The current toe rail is shaped such that the inside of the rail is a
bit rounded - narrower on the top then the bottom.  How the heck can I get
that sort of shape - or at least close?

	Your insights are appreciated,

	Linc, Gypsy #138, Oyster Bay

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