[Alberg30] knee hull

greg vandenberg greg at vandenbergphoto.com
Tue May 20 09:21:15 PDT 2003


Alfrado.... I have been following at times the knee thread and am
wondering if the reason the gap was there was to allow water to escape in
such a leak prone area... a good thing. The plywood was in good condition
so the the design was pretty good. The material that is attaching the knee
looks like woven roving which is superior to mat. If you seal it up tight
and water inters at the chainplate and it will again over time, the wood
will rot and fail with out any warning. I am not so quick to think Whitby
made many design mistakes. They did have a bear bones approach but not bad
design.


Kindest Regards- Greg




Alfredo wrote:

> Hello everyone,
>  I've added some pictures of the work done Sunday on the forward knees.
>
> Thanks to Brian's guidance and encouragement I was able to complete
> this phase of the project in about 30mins. The next step will be to
> rebuild the knees with teak and lots of fiberglass mat. I hope to be
> done with this project by Saturday if all goes well.
>
> If you look at the pictures, you'll notice that there's a gap between
> the toe rail and the inside cabin roof. I was thinking of building this
> area up probably with teak and fiberglass to give the knees a solid
> area to brace against. I'm not a structural engineer by any means so,
> if anyone has any suggestions I'll gladly listen.
>
> Thanks to all,
> Alfredo
> PS. if you only see six pictures, view the slide show, there should be
> 9 total. :-)
>
> http://community.webshots.com/album/73203746XxNVrY
>
> --- Brian and Elaine Timmins <timmins at optonline.net> wrote:
> > In case anyone's interested, Alfredo removed both forward knees
> > yesterday.
> > Neither one was bearing on the deck and both were about 6" long (a
> > guess not
> > a measurement).  Both were made from 3/4 plywood which appeared in
> > fine
> > condition, but were not actually attached to anything except by the
> > fiberglass mat that wrapped around them and secured them to the hull.
> > I am
> > amazed that the plywood is in such good condition considering the
> > leak prone
> > location, directly under the openning for the forward tang.
> > Brian
> >
> > > <<< What wood is good to use to replace the knee? Plywood??? or
> > does it
> > need
> > > to be solid? Teak???? or can it be something from Home Depot?>>>
> > >
> > >
> > > Brian, if I were replacing one, I would NOT use wood. Even if
> > encapsulated,
> > > there is moisture in the wood and over time this can cause
> > problems.  I
> > > would take a piece of hard epoxy board (you can
>
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