[Alberg30] Winter project questions

Dave Terrell DTERRELL at message.nmc.edu
Mon Nov 10 10:42:19 PST 2003


I have a Garhauer as well as am very pleased. If you tell them, they
will drill the track to match your boat exactly. I had a boat that came
with a teak piece designed to take the  traveller. There is no question
that Harken is an(the) industry leader and makes an excellent product.
Nonethelss, I like  Garhauer because that their products are strong,
well built, and commparitively inexpensive.  In addition they provide
very good and excellent customer service. Practical Sailor often awards
them "best buy" ranking when they do product reviews. I think their most
common objection is that  Garhauer products can be heavy because they
are made of stainless steel.

>>> alberg30sail497 at yahoo.com 11/10/03 10:37AM >>>
 
On a recent traveler upgrade on FreeSpirit the Garhauer Marine's
MT-3
track was straight. But it easily conformed to its place as it was
crewed in.


--- Pete <petejill at sprynet.com> wrote:
> When I replaced the traveler on my '66I had Schaefer bend it to the
> curve of
> the deck.  It made the installation much easier.
> 
> Pete H.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Blevins" <billblevins at mac.com>
> To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
> Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2003 7:18 AM
> Subject: [Alberg30] Winter project questions
> 
> 
> > When upgrading the traveller from a 1966 original, do you buy a
> traveller
> track that can be bent slightly to the curve of the aft end of the
> cockpit
> or do you somehow shim underneath the track to keep it flat?
> >
> > Yesterday I removed the rudder shoe from the keel. The pin looked
> great.
> It seems that the movement at the bottom of the rudder was wear on
> the
> rudder fitting and not the pin or shoe. I'm leaning towards just
> leaving it
> now that I'm sure it won't fall off. (it actually looks like quite a
> bit of
> work to remove the rudder - digging through a nice finish to find
the
> bolts
> and all.
> >
> > We didn't notice any vibrations when sailing or motoring this year
> so I
> might just tackle my other projects instead of dealing with removing
> the
> whole rudder at this time. The rest of the rudder and tiller
> connection
> seems to be in good order. Thoughts?
> >
> > (I just reread a Sept 1985 rudder article and I think I just
> convinced
> myself to "don't fix what's not broken".)
> >
> > Final question. How do you know when through hull fittings need to
> be
> replaced? From the inside they all appear to be sound. Maybe a
little
> green
> here or there. From the outside they are painted over. The exhaust
> hose
> through hull looks the worst but it's above the water line. It
> actualy
> appears to be the newest.
> >
> > One note of praise for the structure of the A30. Nothing on my
boat
> seems
> to have been mounted on deck with a backing plate. I am amazed at
the
> condition of the deck in areas where there should have been
> tremendous
> forces and things bolted to it with only a couple of small washers
> and nuts
> below deck. The paint and gelcoat - some areas looks original -
isn't
> even
> crazed!
> >
> > Bill Blevins
> > Sabrina #158
> >  +---------------------------------------------------------------+
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> >  +---------------------------------------------------------------+
> >
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> 
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