[Alberg30] Correction
Dave Terrell
DTERRELL at message.nmc.edu
Tue Oct 28 12:49:47 PST 2003
If you have a boat with a liner, I am pretty sure Raritan will have
dura-cast make the tank anyway you want it - with a manhole or not,
welded fittings whereever you want them. I am also quite certain that
Raritan has otther tanks that will fit in the the non-liner boats. Their
e-mail address is www.raritanengineering.com They have an on-line
catalogue you can print off.
The tank monitors are really useful. I purchased a simple one from
Sealand this year - it just tells you when the level is about three
inches from the top - about $60.00 - simple to install. When the light
goes on, I head to the pumpout station. The problem of when to pump has
gone away. There are much fancier units made by Sealand and others that
tell you about the wastge level as it goes up and that monitor mutiple
tanks as well.
If it were my boat, I would start from scratch - chuck all the old
stuff and install the new system yourself. You know it is done right and
you are the responsbile party - if something malfunctions, you know who
to call. I did it - my boat did not come with head or holding tank - and
it was not difficult. One useful hint: a heat gun is the boat plumbers
friend. It helps you with getting the hose to go around tight corners.
It is my understanding that Sealand's hose is the best for contolling
odor - Practical Sailor rated it first - but it is not cheap by any
measure - about $8.00/foot.
>>> quest433 at msn.com 10/27/03 06:55PM >>>
Mike's right about not wanting to use the water tank...it's guaranteed
to permeate odor because it's made out of the wrong materials. My
understanding is it needs to be made from polyethylene.
Now I want to state my problem for your inputs:
I can't get rid the smell and I got a polyethylene tank. The
consensus of everyone who's sailed with us this summer is that it's
disgusting. I know now that I've got the wrong hose and will replace it
this winter when the smells manageable. But I also believe that there is
a second source emanating the dreadful aroma. For whatever reason the
tank has 3 or 4 plugged holes (nominally 1" white nylon pipe fittings
with teflon tape, or maybe pvc or a white something--these are in one of
the vertical sides and are often have liquid bearing against them). The
tank also has a screwed-in man hole with the white o-ring and a clear
acrylic cover or something like that. In looking at the new tanks that
I've seen all fittings are welded in these days. But I also noticed at
the boat show that they sell level indicators for holding tanks that
screw into the standard man hole. And the Kragor catalogs shows tanks
with man holes as standard. I'd like to order a new tank with no man
holes and only welded in fittings and use the best hose...is this right
track? Or do I just replace the hose and hope that enough?
Jim Mennucci
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Lehman
To: Alberg 30 public list
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2003 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Correction
I would never use a permanent tank for waste. What if the tank became
permeated with odor? How would you change it? As a rule I never have
waste in the tank while the boat is not in use. When the boat is put
away after the weekend, I pump the tank, fill it with a fresh clean
water rinse, and then pump the rinse water. Mine has no odor after 6
years of use. I also make sure to flush the lines with fresh water to
prevent waste from permeating the hoses.
A couple of lesson here....
Buy the best hoses you can. The double-wall rubber sanitation hose
(about $10 per foot) is the best. Use PVC elbows where you have to, but
keep connections to an absolute minimum. Do not use ALL PVC because of
failure due to freezing (I replace the fresh water lines to my pier
every year because they crack longitudinally even though they were
drained). Avoid having an "low spots" in the hose installation where
waste can lay.
The odor from the tank does NOT come from the waste! It comes from
anaerobic bacteria in the system. A well ventilated tank will create an
aerobic environment that will prevent the bacteria from growing
(another good reason to keep the tank emptied). Use two vents, one to
each side of the boat to promote free-flow of air through the tank.
Done and maintained properly a holding tank will provide years of
odor-free service.
----- Original Message -----
From: Roger L. Kingsland
To: Alberg30
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2003 3:14 PM
Subject: [Alberg30] Correction
RE message below sent a few minutes ago, please substitute effluent
for
affluent. Or, just change to read as follows:
Lastly, imagine a 35 gallon holding tank! I could chauffer the
affluent and
their effluent around
the Chesapeake Bay all season, stopping only for the occasional
Perrier
delivery (they do deliver, don't they?).
Sorry about the mix up. I would like to blame it on spell check
Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger L. Kingsland" <rkingsland101 at ksba.com>
To: "Alberg 30 public list" <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2003 1:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] More on Tanks
> I think the pipe problem could be solved by hard plumbing with
rigid PVC
> pipe. There is enough slope below bunk level to get positive
drainage and
> the inside of the pipe is smooth (besides, I have a neighbor who
is a
> plumber). That begs the question, why isn't hard plumbing used
more? Any
> thoughts, any one?
>
> Assuming that problem can be solved, then the question is what is
the
> difference between a water tank and holding tank and would it be
possible
to
> convert. For example, would a pressure test (if so, how much,
how long)
> help determine adaptability of a tank?
>
> Lastly, imagine a 35 gallon holding tank! I could chauffer
affluent
around
> the Chesapeake Bay all season, stopping only for the occasional
Perrier
> delivery (they do deliver, don't they?).
>
> Roger Kingsland
>
>
> Roger L. Kingsland, AIA
> Managing Partner
> Kingsland Scott Bauer Associates (KSBA)
> N40° 27' 49" W79° 57' 59"
> 3441 Butler Street
> Pittsburgh, PA 15201
> www.ksba.com
>
> 1(412) 252-1500 X101 - Office & Voice Mail
> 1(412) 779-5101 - Mobile (no voice mail)
> 1(412) 252-1510 - Fax
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gordon LACO" <mainstay at csolve.net>
> To: "Alberg 30 public list" <public-list at alberg30.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2003 12:50 PM
> Subject: Re: [Alberg30] More on Tanks
>
>
> > I agree... hoses are often the source of bad smells in
otherwise well
done
> > installations. I also agree with the earlier writer about
inflatable
> > tanks... the consequences of trouble are too great to make it a
good
risk
> to
> > my mind; the plug I gave to Vetus tanks notwithstanding.
> >
> > Gord
> > #426 Surprise
> >
> >
> > on 10/22/03 12:34 PM, Hiesener, Michael at
hiesenerm at stripes.osd.mil
> wrote:
> >
> > > Roger,
> > >
> > > I do not believe you would want to convert a water tank to a
waste
> holding
> > > tank. A water tank is not designed to be used as a holding
tank. You
> will
> > > want to purchase a new tank.
> > >
> > > The area under the port side v berth works well... the
drawback is
that
> you
> > > lose that area for storage. One of the problems of using
the area
> where
> > > the forward water tank currently resides is that you would
end up with
a
> > > long hose run from the head to the holding tank...You do not
want
waste
> > > sitting in the hose. Using the area under the port v berth
allows you
> to
> > > have a short run of hose from the head to the tank.
> > >
> > > We recently did this on a early model boat without a liner.
Feel free
> to
> > > contact me with any questions.
> > >
> > > Best Regards,
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > Terrapin #254
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Roger L. Kingsland [mailto:rkingsland101 at ksba.com]
> > > Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2003 12:19 PM
> > > To: Alberg30
> > > Subject: [Alberg30] More on Tanks
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks to all for feedback on flex tanks. Sounds too risky
particularly
> > > when dealing with holding tanks. Which gets me to the next
question.
> Any
> > > thoughts on the feasibility of converting the forward water
tank to a
> > > holding tank?
> > >
> > >
> > > Roger L. Kingsland, AIA
> > > Managing Partner
> > > Kingsland Scott Bauer Associates (KSBA)
> > > N40° 27' 49" W79° 57' 59"
> > > 3441 Butler Street
> > > Pittsburgh, PA 15201
> > > www.ksba.com
> > >
> > > 1(412) 252-1500 X101 - Office & Voice Mail
> > > 1(412) 779-5101 - Mobile (no voice mail)
> > > 1(412) 252-1510 - Fax
> > >
> > >
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