[Alberg30] Tensioning Dual Stays

Roger L. Kingsland rkingsland101 at ksba.com
Tue Sep 30 06:09:06 PDT 2003


Calvin;

Are you contemplating something like the following I posted on 8/8/03?

"Also, I am considering adding an inner forestay for my hank on working jib
and #1 (both in good shape).  It might cost less than modifying the sails
for roller feruling (my #2, is the only sail set up for feruling) and give
me additional flexibility in changing headsails for wind conditions.  Since
the roller feruling #2 is the "middle" sail, I could hank on the next sail
in advance (up or down in size depending on wind trend) and change sails
later without having to go to the foredeck. Of course, the #2 would have to
be feruled on every tack/jibe.  My guess is the new forestay would have to
run parallel the existing about 6"-10" aft.  Any thoughts on how feasible
this would be?  Has anyone tried it?"

I also sent the following to the navel architect that surveyed my boat but
have not heard back.

Mike;

Looking over my sail inventory I discovered I have an almost new, Hild 150
and a very heavy working jib in good condition.  Both are hank on and Mahina
has been converted to Harken roller ferruling.  I have a 130 set up for
roller ferruling; it is by North and made of "Norlam"  which I understand is
some type of Mylar.  It is in OK shape except the UV protection is shot and
it is very grey with mildew.

I thought of adding a second head stay parallel to and about 8" inside of
the roller head stay.  That way I could have the middle sail on a roller and
have the light and heavy sails available on the new head stay.  I would
either roll up the 130 to tack or disconnect the new head stay until needed.
With the "middle" sail on the furreler, I would have plenty of time to put
the right sail on the new stay as the wind increases or decreases.

I could also design the new head stay to attach to a second new chain plate
above the bulkhead separating the chain locker from the forward cabin.  It
looks to be about 1/3 of the way back to the mast.  This way I could move
the center of effort closer to the mast in high wind (say working jib or
storm jib with triple reef main).  Although, with the mast already so far
forward, it may have little advantage.

I have attached a picture of the bow.  Looks like new stay will not fit at
aft end of stainless bow base plate so (I plan to remove the deck mounted
anchor and install rollers).  I thought of glassing in a mini bulkhead to
hold a thru deck chain plate at the forward end of the chain locker (perhaps
4" to 6" aft of the bow plate).  Also attached are plan, section and
elevation drawings.

Do you think this is feasible?  It will probably cost less than modifying 2
sails for the roller but I might be missing something.  Also, is there any
issue with increasing the rigging loads (particularly the mast compression
[I do have the add on alum. gusset plates at the door header under the mast
step]) or will I simply tighten the roller or the new head stay but not
both?

So many questions, your feedback would be appreciated; no hurry though.

Roger
(412) 252-1500

If so, I would like to learn more about your solution since I am still
considering it for my A30.

Roger Kingsland


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brian and Elaine Timmins" <timmins at optonline.net>
To: "Alberg 30 public list" <public-list at alberg30.org>
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2003 11:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Tensioning Dual Stays


> Depends on how they're installed.
> Need more info (or pictures).
> Brian    ex#497
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Voyager Toronto" <voyagertoronto at hotmail.com>
> To: <public-list at alberg30.org>
> Sent: Monday, September 29, 2003 10:00 PM
> Subject: [Alberg30] Tensioning Dual Stays
>
>
> > What's the correct tuning when both a (Profurl) furling system AND a
> > separate forestay are installed?
> > Calvin
> > Voyager #30, Toronto
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
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