[Alberg30] Paint Prep Advice
Gordon LACO
mainstay at csolve.net
Mon Sep 22 05:59:37 PDT 2003
Hi there -
A very light coat of thinned contrasting paint is the best way to find
hollows in the hull... I have used a home-made "long-board" tool to sand big
flat areas. The tool is a 4' length of flexible board (thing plywood) with
two handles attached and a long strip of sand paper glued to it.
And yes - "gunmetal" is British for high grade bronze. Even some Brits
don't know that anymore so Davey is thinking of just saying "Bronze" or
Silicone Bronze etc in the catalogue.
Gord
#426 Surprise
on 9/22/03 8:38 AM, Roger L. Kingsland at rkingsland101 at ksba.com wrote:
> Gord;
>
> Thanks for the advice on filler. I have already done the hull to deck
> joint, exposed glass areas and even the minor scratches with Marine Tex.
> (The hull to deck joint had no delamination at all and it is now a finished,
> right angle joint with no exposed edges. In addition to the 3/16" SS rivets
> 4" OC, the bolts I will use to hold down the new toe rail will reinforce the
> joint.) I just need the filler to fill in undulations no deeper than the
> depth of the gel coat.
>
> One problem is it is hard to see the undulations because the current, sanded
> finish is so dull. Is it advisable to paint one coat of primer (hopefully
> with some gloss to it) to discover the "fairing flaws" then remove the paint
> to fix the problems. Back in my construction days we used to do this with
> drywall.
>
> Also, your catalogue mentions "gunmetal," is that "English" for bronze?
>
> Thanks for all of your help.
>
> Roger
>
> Roger Kingsland
> rkingsland101 at ksba.com
> Chief Financial Officer (AKA, check writer)
> Mahina Manu, A30 #148
> N40° 29.288'
> W79° 54.228'
>
> Author's Disclaimer; This email was produced exclusively by the sender and,
> in the interest of expediency, without the benefit of editing by others.
> The sender, thank goodness, is a much better architect/sailor than
> speller/editor and, frankly, constantly laments an obvious flaw in "spell
> check," it does not know what the author is thinking. Please accept the
> sender's sincere apologies for any "typos" that may appear in this document.
> If present, they are certainly unintended and hopefully do not cloud the
> message, or spawn any unnecessary lawsuits.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gordon LACO" <mainstay at csolve.net>
> To: "Alberg 30 public list" <public-list at alberg30.org>
> Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 7:42 AM
> Subject: Re: [Alberg30] Paint Prep Advice
>
>
>> Hi there -
>>
>> I have developed some preferences for filler during my wooden boat days...
>> and carried some over to the Alberg.
>>
>> For major fairing and deep scratches I use West epoxy filled to a paste
> with
>> with their recommended white filler (once I used Coffee Mate and it worked
>> very well). Epoxy is hard to sand though so in the interests of speed I
>> used auto body filler.
>>
>> Stop screaming everybody....
>>
>> It does work well so long as you only use it for minor fairing and in
> places
>> where you do not require strength from it. The best thing about it is the
>> fact that since you do not have to sand so much to fair it, there is much
>> less chance that you will damage other areas or go through gel coat. IE
> it
>> is fine to fill scratches and such, but not so good at the hull to deck
>> where there may be some movement in the future.
>>
>> Gord
>> #426 Surprise
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> on 9/22/03 7:04 AM, Roger L. Kingsland at rkingsland101 at ksba.com wrote:
>>
>>> Albergers,
>>>
>>> I am in the final stages (at least I hope I am) of paint prep for #148
> and
>>> wonder if there is a material I can use as a "fairing compound" to fill
> in
>>> areas of undulations in the hull and deck. In some spots I have used the
> TLR
>>> ([Tool of Last Resort), my belt sander, and sanded past the gel coat)
>>>
>>> To date I have used some epoxy (mostly to fill the counter sunk holes
> for the
>>> 186 SS, 3/16 pop rivets I added to the hull/deck joint) and a bunch of
> Marine
>>> Tex. While strong, Marine Tex is hard to apply with a putty knife (I
> ended up
>>> filling scratches using a syringe and creating a ridge which can be
> sanded
>>> more easily than a feathered joint).
>>>
>>> Ideally I would like to find a material the consistency of drywall mud
> that
>>> would stick to Marine Tex and gel coat and hold up under paint. I have
> seen
>>> gel coat compound in my marina store but it looks like it is just for
> patching
>>> scratches.
>>>
>>> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>>
>>> Roger Kingsland
>>> Chief Financial Officer (AKA, check writer)
>>> Mahina Manu, A30 #148
>>> N40° 29.288'
>>> W79° 54.228'
>>>
>>> Author's Disclaimer; This email was produced exclusively by the sender
> and, in
>>> the interest of expediency, without the benefit of editing by others.
> The
>>> sender, thank goodness, is a much better architect/sailor than
> speller/editor
>>> and, frankly, constantly laments an obvious flaw in "spell check," it
> does not
>>> know what the author is thinking. Please accept the sender's sincere
>>> apologies for any "typos" that may appear in this document. If present,
> they
>>> are certainly unintended and hopefully do not cloud the message, or
> spawn any
>>> unnecessary lawsuits.
>>> +---------------------------------------------------------------+
>>> | This Old Boat by Don Casey |
>>> | http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0071579931/alberg30-20 |
>>> +---------------------------------------------------------------+
>>>
>>> Public-list mailing list -- Public-list at alberg30.org
>>> http://www.alberg30.org/mailman/listinfo/public-list
>>> To unsubscribe: email to Public-list-request at alberg30.org
>>> Include command "unsubscribe <password>" in subject or body.
>>> Use command "help" for more options.
>>>
>>
>>
>> +---------------------------------------------------------------+
>> | This Old Boat by Don Casey |
>> | http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0071579931/alberg30-20 |
>> +---------------------------------------------------------------+
>>
>> Public-list mailing list -- Public-list at alberg30.org
>> http://www.alberg30.org/mailman/listinfo/public-list
>> To unsubscribe: email to Public-list-request at alberg30.org
>> Include command "unsubscribe <password>" in subject or body.
>> Use command "help" for more options.
>>
>>
>
>
> +---------------------------------------------------------------+
> | This Old Boat by Don Casey |
> | http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0071579931/alberg30-20 |
> +---------------------------------------------------------------+
>
> Public-list mailing list -- Public-list at alberg30.org
> http://www.alberg30.org/mailman/listinfo/public-list
> To unsubscribe: email to Public-list-request at alberg30.org
> Include command "unsubscribe <password>" in subject or body.
> Use command "help" for more options.
>
+---------------------------------------------------------------+
| This Old Boat by Don Casey |
| http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0071579931/alberg30-20 |
+---------------------------------------------------------------+
Public-list mailing list -- Public-list at alberg30.org
http://www.alberg30.org/mailman/listinfo/public-list
To unsubscribe: email to Public-list-request at alberg30.org
Include command "unsubscribe <password>" in subject or body.
Use command "help" for more options.
1064235577.0
More information about the Public-List
mailing list