[Public-list] Toe Rail

Dan Pinson dan at pinson.us
Wed Aug 11 17:50:33 PDT 2004


Mine is solid Carnival (and, unfortunately, Sabrina). Thanks to all for 
your feedback. You probably saved me from another one of my ideas. This 
list is as therapeutic as it is informative.

..Dan


Bill Blevins wrote on 8/11/2004 7:39 AM:

> Mine is a 1966 and when the boat is heavy in the stern (or when it's 
> not blocked correctly), about a half-cup of water remains on deck at 
> each corner where the side toe rail meets the taffrail because it's 
> uphill to make it back to the rear scupper on the side by the cockpit. 
> The wood was a little "rotten" before I fixed it this summer. 
> http://makeashorterlink.com/?X16221609
>
> Bill Blevins
> "Sabrina" #158
>
> -- 
>
> Dan Pinson wrote:
>
>> This is interesting. Mine is an 'older' boat (1965) but I don't see
>> any drains other than the scuppers. Can you or someone post a pic of
>> that? Also, my taffrail is solid (laminated w/no gaps) rather than
>> what you describe.
>> Thanks,
>> Dan
>> George Dinwiddie wrote on 8/11/2004 7:19 AM:
>>
>> My concern is that you'll be creating new problems for yourself trying
>> to fix something that "only" lasted 40 years.
>>
>> The new boats actually seem to have more drainage problems than the
>> older ones, but all of them need some motion to drain all parts of the
>> deck. All the boats I've seen (or, at least, noticed) sit a little low
>> in the stern. Whether that's due to modifications in the design and
>> construction (using iron rather than lead ballast, for instance), or out
>> propensity to put stuff into the cockpit lockers and lazarette, I don't
>> know.
>>
>> The older boats have large areas on the taffrail to let the water out.
>> This lets them drain much faster than the new boats when underway, but
>> it also considerably weakens the structure of the taffrail. I've seen
>> them break under the weight of a foot.
>>
>> If you raise the toerail off the deck, you're going to have similar
>> problems with sturdiness.
>>
>> If you haven't pulled up and rebedded the toerail, there's no chance you
>> could have fixed any existing problem with the bedding. Caulking on the
>> outside of a joint is only a temporary stopgap measure--it won't fix
>> anything. I think that problem will go away for a couple decades if you
>> rebed well with a good caulk.
>>
>> If you're concerned about standing water, you could add extra drains
>> under the toerail. On the older boats, this is easy to do because the
>> drains consist of channels on the underside of the toerail.
>>
>> Honestly, I think this is a case for "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."
>>
>> - George
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 10, 2004 at 09:55:40PM -0700, Dan Pinson wrote:
>>
>>
>> George,
>> There are spots on deck - especially aft - that don't drain well when
>> the boat is moored. Not pools or water but a some 'spoonfuls' at the
>> base of the rails. Naturally, there is water on the deck under way.
>> So, it seems an uphill battle keeping the rails properly bedded to the
>> deck and one another at the joints when they're continually assailed
>> by water. By the joints in my taft rail, for example, I believe it's
>> not the first problem. On the other hand, my boat is almost 40 years
>> old. The rails surely haven't been replaced at all or too many times.
>> Mostly, I'm thinking if I take them up - can I improve them (by
>> getting them up of the deck).
>> ..Dan
>>
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