Fw: [Public-list] Toe Rail

Dan Pinson dan at pinson.us
Wed Aug 18 08:12:02 PDT 2004


Roger,

Your project sounds much like what I was contemplating. A foundry in 
Port Townsend, WA used to make the L-shaped brackets although I don't 
see them in the current catalog. At the moment I need only replace my 
taffrail. Pulled it up last weekend. Think I will put down a non-solid 
bottom piece to allow better drainage. The rest of the toe rail is not 
bad, but I won't feel at ease until it's up and rebedded (not a job for 
the remaining summer).

Thanks for the info. Will be interested to see how yours turns out.

..Dan


Roger L. Kingsland wrote on 8/17/2004 6:31 AM:

>  
>
>>Dan,
>>
>>Because of the work, you might not be interested in replacing your toe
>>    
>>
>rail
>  
>
>>the way I am doing on #148 but here is how it works.  First, I fastened
>>    
>>
>the
>  
>
>>rub rail so the top aligned with the deck and filled in the unfinished
>>    
>>
>hull
>  
>
>>to deck joint with epoxy.  I also countersunk (countersank?) 3/16" SS
>>    
>>
>rivets
>  
>
>>at 4" centers and filled with epoxy.  The result is a finished edge with
>>    
>>
>the
>  
>
>>deck running flush to the top of the toe rail.  At the stern, I filled and
>>rounded the deck to transom joint and don't plan to install a taft rail.
>>
>>The toe rail will mount on "L" shaped SS brackets 24" on center that I
>>fabricated.  The base is 3/8" and the vertical is 1/4".
>>The teak toe rail will mount on the outside of the vertical, 3/8" above
>>    
>>
>the
>  
>
>>deck (for continuous drainage) with the outside flush with hull.  It will
>>    
>>
>be
>  
>
>>1" thick and match the angle of the hull (flaring out forward).  I also
>>    
>>
>plan to
>  
>
>>increase the height proportionately to the freeboard which will result in
>>    
>>
>a
>  
>
>>height amidships of about 3" and 5" at the bow.
>>
>>This has been and will be allot of work that I would not do were I not
>>    
>>
>also
>  
>
>>redoing the entire deck.  I am fortunate to have use of an industrial band
>>saw but 316 SS is hard and stubborn stuff.  Getting mill grade stuff to a
>>"see your face" level of finish has been quite a chore.
>>
>>Gary Baker replaced his toe rail with aluminum which also acts as the
>>    
>>
>genoa
>  
>
>>track.  Perhaps he can let you know how his project worked out.
>>
>>Roger Kingsland
>>Chief Boat Boy
>>PERFECT intentions, A30 #148
>>on the hard at N40° 33.945' W79° 51.260'
>>
>>    
>>
>
>  
>
>>----- Original Message ----- 
>>From: "Dan Pinson" <dan at pinson.us>
>>To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at alberg30.org>
>>Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 12:05 AM
>>Subject: [Public-list] Toe Rail
>>
>>
>>    
>>
>>>   [Ooops. My earlier post appended to another thread. Sorry about
>>>      
>>>
>that.]
>  
>
>>>   I  noticed  my taft rail delaminating. Investigation revealed some
>>>      
>>>
>dry
>  
>
>>>   rot  on  one end. While I can remedy this, I asked myself what would
>>>      
>>>
>I
>  
>
>>>   do  if  I  had  extensive  toe  rail damage. I've followed a couple
>>>      
>>>
>of
>  
>
>>>   threads lately on more localized damage.
>>>   My  first  choice would be a teak rail raised about 1.5" or so off
>>>      
>>>
>the
>  
>
>>>   deck.  If  my  perception  is  correct,  I'd  need  something  to
>>>      
>>>
>help
>  
>
>>>   seal/reinforce  the  deck-hull  seam  as  well as providing
>>>      
>>>
>attachment
>  
>
>>>   points for the rail.
>>>   While  all  aluminum  rails  are  not  esthetically pleasing, they
>>>      
>>>
>are
>  
>
>>>   practical. But then, the genoa track would need to be relocated.
>>>   Have any of you replaced the rail with anything but teak bolted to
>>>      
>>>
>the
>  
>
>>>   deck or thought about another replacement?
>>>   Regards,
>>>   Dan
>>>   #78
>>>_______________________________________________
>>>Public-list mailing list
>>>Public-list at alberg30.org
>>>http://alberg30.org/mailman/listinfo/public-list
>>>
>>>
>>>      
>>>
>
>
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>  
>

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