[Public-list] Chainplate covers?

[sousa, stephen (ENG)]

Don,

I praise you for your efforts and designs, the riser you mention are used on
Hinckley from the factory for the life line stanchions, look nice and
perform the same function. 

Although I would like to put risers under the stanchions and around
chainplates, I would hate to refinish the decks with Awlgrip for a second
time.  For other Albergers that are looking into cover plates, Schaeffer
lists them in their catalog and website at approx. $11.00 each U.S. There a
are a number of plates listed we need to find the one that fits our
chainplates which shouldn't be too difficult. See website
http://www.schaefermarine.com/hardware.asp under Standing Rigging & Mast
Hardware Chainplate Covers. 

Thanks,
Stephen

-----Original Message-----
From: Don Campbell [mailto:dk.campbell at sympatico.ca] 
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 2004 1:13 AM
To: sousa, stephen (ENG)
Cc: 'Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all'
Subject: Re: [Public-list] Chainplate covers?

Stephen;
    I had better start by saying that I cut the whole deck off the boat to
repair a wet core. I cut from the bow to taffrail on both port and starboard
and
then around the cockpit and cabin, removed all the top layer of fiberglass
and
diamond pattern and the Balsa core. The deck was then rebuilt with balsa and
a
solid fibreglass/epoxy top web and solid epoxy  where through deck bolts
were to
go.  This was to fix at least the one stantion that moved through an arc of
75
degrees transverse to the length of the boat. That is really another whole
stoy.

    To make a pattern for a riser, a piece of 1/2" plastic was cut so the
base
was about 4 1/2 " x 3 1/2" and the sides were bevelled at 45 degrees on a
table
saw. To make the female mould, plastacine ( the childrens' soft moulding
material) was then pressed onto the top and sides of the plastic form. The
form
was then removed. A mould release was applied to the plastacine and a
mixture of
West System (TM) and Cabosil(TM) was used to fill the mould. Once hard, the
plastacine was easily removed and reused for the next mould.  This process,
from
the making of the mould to letting the epoxy harden was repeated 6 more
times so
that  7 risers were made, one for each chainplate and the backstay.
    Once the deck was nearly finished, i.e. faired but not sealed, the
risers
were bonded in place using epoxy as the bonding material. Correct placement
was
done by drilling a small hole upwards  from below in the centre of the
chainplate slot (easily visable from below) and a second hole in the centre
of
the riser. A common nail was used to align the holes. Both the deck and the
bottom of the riser were coated with clear epoxy, the riser set on the deck
with
the nail in both holes  and the long edge was set parallel to the rail.
Plastic
sandbags were used for weight so that epoxy would not adhere to them. Once
the
joint had cured, the top surface was  sanded with a 4" belt sander to be
slightly more level than the deck. After 24 hours, the chainplate slot was
drilled and filed so that the chainplates would fit through  the deck and
riser.
The chainplate was set in place with 2 mounting bolts to the knees and the
turnbuckle tested to see that once pinned in place,  it did not hit the
riser,
otherwise more of the surface was sanded away.
    The deck and risers were then sealed with 2 coats of clear epoxy.
    The chainplates were then fastened into place with 3/8 bolts to the
knees
below. The stainless steel cover plates were set onto the chainplates and
the
edges of the slot were filed so that the plate lay flat on the riser. The
two
holes for 1/4 x 1/2 machine bolts were then drilled into the risers and
tapped,
first with a tapered tap and then bottoming tap,  so that the deck was not
pierced. The plate was removed, caulking was applied to the area of the
chain
plate, the cover plate replaced, epoxy added to the threads and   the bolts
were
tightened to snug as the caulking was forced into the joints. (I may need to
heat the bolts t get them out).
(Photos to George separately.)
    I should point out that I did not have any problems with bonding since I
was
using epoxy to epoxy bonds. If I were to fix a boat without redoing a deck,
I
would make the risers out of polyester resins and appropriate fillers,
remove
the chainplates, tape the slots on the bottom, tape off the deck area for
each
riser base and sand the raised parts around the chainplates and gelcoat off
down
to resin and glass. Then I would coat that with an even  layer of clear
polyester resin to obtain a bonding surface, add a second layer and  before
the
first layer fully cured add a third one to help get to the top of the
gelcoat
again. I would then align the risers and coat the bottom of them with resin
and
set them in place while the third layer was still wet. Timing is important
in
these steps so that no blush, moisture or dust gets into the bonding area.
Replace chainplates as above.
    I don't know how this would be as  a group purchase but you might save a
bit
on set-up time for the milling machine for  the  SS plates. It is not a very
expensive project when you only need a quart of polyester resin. It should
be
less than 60 dollars including stainless if you scrounge at the scrap yards.
I
found paddles from a conveyor system they used for moving grain into the
beer
making process. Scrap yards can be interesting!
    I painted the deck with Sikkens grey deck paint until I found something
I
liked better and have not done too much looking,  since I have liked the
result
and had no problems in 7 years.
Don

"sousa, stephen (ENG)" wrote:

> Don,
>
> If you could share the method used for the pattern it would be
appreciated.
> This may be one of those items that would fall into the group purchase
area.
> It would benefit all Alberg owners and could be very inexpensive it we
> purchase a large quantity. I would expect that all boats have the same
> installation for chainplates, so one pattern could be used on all boats?
>
> Thanks,
> Stephen
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: public-list-bounces at alberg30.org
> [mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Don Campbell
> Sent: Sunday, December 12, 2004 7:48 PM
> To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> Subject: Re: [Public-list] Chainplate covers?
>
> Randy
>     When I bought #528, I was taken to see a C & C deck which had a raised
> flat area around the chainplates with the SS plates of which you speak. I
> knew I needed to redo the deck on this boat so incorporated a raised flat
> area at the chainplates on my new deck. I then went to the scrap yard and
> found some 1/8th stainless plate that was food grade so probably 316
(which
> is probaly not what is best for a marine environement, 304 is stronger and
> more durable,  I gather, but strength is not that important here), cut it
to
> size- about 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" and then took it to a machine shop to have the
> slot cut.  I needed to file the edges a bit to get the chainplate angle
> correct in the slot but SS is relatively soft, so not difficult once in a
> vise. I have drilled 2 holes in the plates and drilled and tapped the
epoxy,
> raised flat areas to match so I just tighten the 2 - 1/4 x 1/2 ss machine
> bolts to seal the caulking. Total cost about $25 Canadian when I did it 8
> years ago -$20 of that  for the machinist. I need to redo that caulking
job
> this winter. The raised part of the deck decreased the torque and twist on
> the chainpates at the deck level too. If you want to know how I did the
> pattern for the raised flat area let me know.
> Don
>
> Randy Katz wrote:
>
> > Speaking of chainplates (nice photos of the reinforcement straps, BTW)
> > has anyone found a source for chainplate covers? They are the oval SS
> > plates 2-2.5 inches long, slot in the middle, that fit over the
> > chainplate straps where they stick out of the deck. They get caulked and
> > sit over the deck opening, with the chain plate strap coming up through
> > their middle, and serve to help seal that deck opening.
> > I've checked West Marine and a few other stores-- they seem hard to find
> > at all but ones the size we need I never did come across.
> > Anyone know where to get them?
> >
> > Many Thanks,
> > Randy Katz
> > #249
> > Seattle, WA.
> >
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>
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