[Public-list] My Rudder is Broke and Needs Fixin

[C.B. Currier]

Here is Bill Blevins Rendition of his rudder repair job with much
photographic documentation. Unfortunately Bill had to move quick for a new
job but his sailing photos are still online for now.

http://mysailingphotos.com/Members/Sabrina/Albums/Maintenance/RudderRepair/RudderDuring/

-- 
C.B. Currier
Infinity #57
Daybreak #458



sousa, stephen (ENG) said:
> Lincoln,
>
> The company that make rudder in Florida is listed below. I have seen one
> that he completed for a boat at our yard he does nice work. As mentioned
> by
> George and C.B Currier there are also other options. It may be worth a
> call
> and pick his brain with some questions.
>
> Foss Foam Products of FL Inc, 4480 126th Avenue North Clearwater, FL 33762
> (727) 571-3626. *****. ...
>
> Stephen
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: public-list-bounces at alberg30.org
> [mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org] On Behalf Of FINNUS505 at aol.com
> Sent: Monday, December 20, 2004 8:09 PM
> To: public-list at alberg30.org
> Subject: Re: [Public-list] My Rudder is Broke and Needs Fixin
>
> In a message dated 12/20/04 10:27:11 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> sousa_stephen at emc.com writes:
> Anyone want to chime in on rudder design - a topic that I can guarantee
> would be of practical use to one reader (although I'd have to attach the
> usual legal disclaimer).  I've tracked down a rudder shoe, gonna use the
> j24
> gudgeon/pintel thingers and gonna take that really strong type plywood and
> slap two peaces together "sealed" in epoxy.
>
> One mystery that seems to ping around in my brain (there are one or two
> others) is -- how the heck does the that bent poll that sticks out and
> below
> the hole in the boat get inbetween those two peaces of really strong type
> plywood i slap together?
>
> Casey has a diagram for one piece of metal, shaped more or less like a
> comb,
> which is welded all along the rudder post.
>
> Hey,
> The easiest way to make a new rudder is to have that guy in Florida do it
> for
> you. I never like to have anything built for the boat that I can do
> myself,
> though. Money is one big issue, but it is the principle of the thing too.
>
> Many production rudders are foam cored, skinned by layers of glass
> laminate.
>
> I don't have experience with this method of construction, so I cannot
> offer
> any advice. If I had to build a new rudder for my Alberg 30, I would go
> with
>
> layers of marine ply epoxied together, and faired to the necessary
> thickness
> at
> forward and trailing edges. Glass the plywood well when done, and you
> would
> have one strong rudder.
>
> I like the 'Comb' idea from the Casey book for marrying the rudder blade
> to
> the rudder stock. If you do not want to make a custom extrusion for the
> comb,
> then you can make your own comb with 1/4 inch, or 5/16 inch bronze
> threaded
> rod. We would drill the rudder stock to take the threaded rod. There is no
> room
> for nuts to protrude on the forward face of the stock, so we tap the stock
> so
> the rods will thread into it, and then peen over the ends of the rod,
> effectively riveting them to the stock.
>
> The rods extend the full length of the blade, into notches cut into the
> trailing edge of the blade that would allow nuts to be placed, as the
> ultimate
> guarentee of the structure staying together. The notches would be filled
> with
> thickened epoxy and faired before glassing.
>
> A concern would be that drilling holes in the stock to take the threaded
> rod
>
> might weaken it. I would have to see all the components apart to make that
> determination. If I felt it would be weaker, than I would make a new
> rudder
> stock
> of larger scantling material.
>
> The rudder is about 2 inches thick at it's forward end, maybe a bit more,
> actually, so we will be making the blade up of at least two pieces of 1"
> marine
> ply. The two pieces will be bonded with epoxy along the center line of the
> rudder blade. We route out grooves on the inboard faces of these two
> pieces,
> a
> half round groove on each inboard face, to take the threaded rod.
>
> We want the glue seam between the two pieces of plywood to be very good;
> avoid any voids, or areas of pooled glue. The best way to do this is with
> alot of
> clamps. Clamps holding two by fours across the blade, six inches apart
> from
> eachother, or closer, would assure even pressure, and a good glue seam.
> Also
>
> important, we want to make sure the blade is absolutely flat while
> clamping
> and
> gluing, so the final blade is not glued  in a warped shape.
>
>
> To counter the extreme torque forces that will be trying to seperate the
> glue
> line, I would use copper rivets, athwartships, through all the thickness'
> of
>
> plywood, above and below each threaded rod, along their entire lengths.
> Though
> the glue line would probably not give, the wood may splinter away from the
> glue in an extreme incident, and that must be avoided.
>
> The two pieces of 1" marine ply would make up the largest part of the
> rudder
>
> blade. Additional layers of marine ply could be added to bring the
> thickness
>
> up to the necessary dimensions. At least three or four layers of glass
> will
> be
> necessary to make sure the structure is waterproof and strong, and that
> will
>
> add significant thickness, too.
>
> That's how I would do it.
> It's fun thinking about these things. I'm no engineer though, so consult
> someone who knows something before you proceed. :)
> Lee
> Stargazer #255
> _______________________________________________
> Public-list mailing list
> Public-list at alberg30.org
> http://alberg30.org/mailman/listinfo/public-list
> _______________________________________________
> Public-list mailing list
> Public-list at alberg30.org
> http://alberg30.org/mailman/listinfo/public-list
>


 1103713157.0