[Public-list] Lost Rudder: Gudgeons and Pintels

[Mike Lehman]

Linc,

I just re-did the deck of my 19' power boat this summer with Coosa board. 
With help from George, Larry Morris and Phil Beigel we were able to create a 
whole new deck and all of the stringers and below deck support beams. It 
turned out great. Coosa was easy to work with, it is impervious to water 
absorption; when covered with glass it is very strong and it is about 40% 
lighter than wood. Good choice for a new rudder, let me know if you need any 
advice working with this stuff.



Mike Lehman
 ><((((º>¸.·´¯`·...¸><((((º>




----Original Message Follows----
From: Lincoln Finkenberg <finkenbergl at yahoo.com>
Reply-To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all <public-list at alberg30.org>
To: public-list at alberg30.org
Subject: [Public-list] Lost Rudder: Gudgeons and Pintels
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2004 07:59:56 -0800 (PST)


Would anyone have the dimensions of each of the pintels and gudgeons on the 
rudder or in the alternative - a good idea of their size.  I understand they 
are similar to the pacific seacraft 25 and the j24.  A fabricator has 
existing casts and asks that I give him a better idea of the dimensions so 
he can try to find a decent match.  In the end they'll probably be silicon 
bronze (I'm scared to ask how much).

If folks are interested in getting some of these gidgets for their parts 
inventory - I'm happy to coordinate.  Note that these would not be exact 
replicas.

As to the rudder core - I'll probably go with the coosa - which is stocked 
and retailed in Annapolis.  Bottom line from the numerous conversations with 
folks in this field is PVC has better stress strength and you can go with a 
slightly lower density than urethane.  Urethane they recommend a minimum of 
12 PSI - I believe coosa is a urethane.  Why urethane over PVC - I've no 
idea - other than I was able to find someone who stocked coosa.  The sheets 
are very difficult to find.  I've also heard from members and folks in the 
field that its better to encase the rudder core in carbon versus glass. I 
guess that goes again to sheer strength - but what about impact strength?

I've heard conflicting info as to the core when it comes to wood - some have 
said acume plywood (including a specialty lumber yard here in Westchester) 
others have said solid wood.  I think in the end you may as well go with 
foam as the cost differential is not prohibitive - coosa is about $200 per 
4x8 sheet.  The type of high-end marine grade multi plywood you'd use 
wouldn't save you much.  Solid oak might.

In the end - I want the boat to sail straight and have a rudder that will 
last a good 15 years - any other consideratoins I could really care less 
about.

Sailing straight of course is always a challenge.  But it gets more 
difficult with a messed up rudder.  What is involved in terms of the shape 
of the thing.  I plan on gluing the two 1" thick sheets of foam (with the 
rudder stock) and then faring it with a belt sander.  As I recall the port 
and starboard sides of the rudder was pretty flat - I didn't recall seeing 
any concave shape - as you see with some rudders - which makes sense given 
the full keel.  My hope is to get a series of thickness measurements of the 
rudder - unless someone can confirm it is one thickness throughout.  In any 
event I'll at some point need to get veyr acquainted with someone's existing 
rudder.

Thanks,
Linc


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