[Public-list] still agonizing over non slip
Don Campbell
dk.campbell at sympatico.ca
Tue Jun 1 21:37:55 PDT 2004
Hi Roger;
I have been through exactly the same decision process and even with the same treadmaster stuff. The only difference was that I had replaced the deck, so had cut off all the diamond pattern and rebuilt the deck from the bottom skin up. That left the surface smoother than what you probably have, but I stopped at 100 grit for that finish on 2 rolled layers of West system Epoxy with no additives. Once all was considered, I thought most options were too expensive, so I then went with Sikkens grey non-slip deck paint until I figured out what would be
best. They made white, grey and black deck paints at the time. We had the grey paint on the deck of a dingy, liked it for the colour but it wore through a pair of pants in a regatta every weekend. The application on the Alberg was 7 years ago and I have only added one coat of paint after 5 years. The grey is really nice because it does not reflect the sun or reflected light. So far, even with a rail in the water, no-one has lost their footing on it. And so far there is no black showing through either, which may be because there was no black there to begin
with. Sikkens makes Cetol so that may give you a clue where to find a supplier.
Don
"Roger L. Kingsland" wrote:
> Albergers;
>
> "PERFECT intentions" is coming dangerously close to being ready for a huge milestone, the paint job. I have taken a serious look at Treadmaster non-slip, glue down matting but, even though it seems you would cut your foot before slipping on the stuff, it is expensive and, I think, would look odd because it is so thick (1/8"). I keep going back to non-slip paint but am concerned that the paint on top of the non slip granules wears off to expose ugly black "spots."
>
> Of the variety of non slip paint discussed in the past, does anyone know of any that hold their (light) color after a few years of use?
>
> I have filled the original no slip gel coat with epoxy. One thing I thought of is routing out sections under the non slip matting (Treadmaster) "patches" to 1/16" depth which would place the continuous matting (below the raised triangles) flush with the deck. this way it would drain well and only the 1/16" high triangles would be above the plane of the deck.
>
> Any thoughts would be most appreciated.
>
> Roger Kingsland
> Chief Boat Boy
> "PERFECT intentions", A30 #148
> on the hard at N40° 33.945' W79° 51.260'
>
> Author's Disclaimer; This email was produced exclusively by the sender and, in the interest of expediency, without the benefit of editing by others. The sender, thank goodness, is a much better architect/sailor than speller/editor and, frankly, constantly laments an obvious flaw in "spell check," it does not know what the author is thinking. Please accept the sender's sincere apologies for any "typos" that may appear in this document. If present, they are certainly unintended and hopefully do not cloud the message, or spawn any unnecessary lawsuits.
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