[Public-list] Shaft removal

[sousa, stephen (ENG)]

Peter,

I agree with Brian, I would also buy some Rust Buster and spray the bolts
and shaft where it enters the flange. If you have a split flange which bolts
together around the shaft, that would be much easier to remove. Also when
reinstalling make sure the 1/4 inch key is tight into the shaft otherwise it
could move out of the shaft. I had this happen with the Yanmar, a gas engine
shouldn't vibrate that much.

Stephen   

-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Brian and Elaine
Timmins
Sent: Friday, May 14, 2004 6:26 PM
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Subject: Re: [Public-list] Shaft removal


If you get really, really lucky, just the square headed "set screw" needs to
be removed. Probably you will need to remove all the bolts, back the flange
out a little, put a nut (or some other spacer) in the gap between the shaft
end and the motor side of the coupling, and use longer bolts to pull the
flanges together (at the same time as the spacer pushes the shaft off the
flange). You may need to do this with several different spacers until the
shaft will clear the end of the flange. WARNING, watch your knuckles. Don't
let the wrenches slip. Brian

>To remove the shaft is is necessary to undo >all the bolts and seperate 
>the
flanges or will >removing the square headed bolt alone allow >the shaft to
come out?
> Peter Amos
> Tait Tait #478
>

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