[Public-list] 78 Amp alternator/Atomic 4

[C.B. Currier]

Seafoam is the "Spray" or aerosol version of Deep Creep (the Liquid)

Why they have 2 different names is beyond me. wd-40 comes in liquid or
aerosol with no name change.
None the less Great stuff.
-- 
C.B. Currier


Mike Lehman said:
> The best additive I have ever used is a product called "Sea Foam" which is
> sold at NAPA in Annapolis. I use it in my GMC truck (260K miles) and
> running
> strong!
>
>
>
>               Mike Lehman
>><((((º>¸.·´¯`·...¸><((((º>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: "C.B. Currier" <cbcurrier at spinrx.com>
> Reply-To: cbcurrier at spinrx.com,Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
> <public-list at alberg30.org>
> To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at alberg30.org>
> Subject: RE: [Public-list] 78 Amp alternator/Atomic 4
> Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2004 12:27:45 -0400 (EDT)
>
> Mike,
> I too am not sure of Dry and wet other than,
> when doing the compression test:
>    1) Do with engine cold
>    2) take all spark plugs off
>    3) apply tester in all 4 cylinders in succession
>    4) crank with starter once or twice should be enough
> Cylinders should be dry. Meaning no Fuel or water in cylinder.
> If the cylinders are wet then no big deal other than wet material may
> change reading of compression a bit.
>
> BTW:
>   (new electronic ignition, brand new rotor, new cap,rebuilt starter, new
>    alternator, new fuel pump, new wires, new head gasket.)
> Unfortunately according to all of these things the only problem left is
> either:
> Bad valves or bad rings.
> If you get a low compression reading on any of the cylinders consider an
> alternative to ripping off the head again before going after the valves.
>
> Consider applying a quart of or variation thereof of deep creep (not
> marvel Mystery oil) to your fuel. This should help loosen things up & kick
> off the deposits you have in the engine. It works a hundred times better
> than MMO an other lubircants and you can purchase it at Nappa Annapolis,
> it is the only product of this type they sell. Then run the motor for a
> while. Also pour some into the cylinders to soak for a few days before
> running.
>
> Also you can evaluate your oil to see if you are burning off oil or if you
> are getting fuel into the oil (this will indicate ring problems).
>
> Power depreciation can come from poor alignment between the motor and the
> shaft check this as well with a feeler gauge. I believe a really nice
> minimum all around was .015 less is more better.
>
> --
> C.B. Currier
> with 7 Atomic 4s
> n More to Come
>
> Meinhold, Michael J said:
>  > George - I have been puzzling over this, but I can't come up with a
>  > meaning
>  > for "Dry and Wet" with respect to compression testing.
>  >
>  > Mike
>  >
>  > -----Original Message-----
>  > From: public-list-bounces at alberg30.org
>  > [mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org]On Behalf Of George Dinwiddie
>  > Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 3:13 PM
>  > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
>  > Subject: Re: [Public-list] 78 Amp alternator/Atomic 4
>  >
>  >
>  > On Tue, Sep 07, 2004 at 02:17:33PM -0400, Meinhold, Michael J wrote:
>  >> Chris, thanks, but it's now electronic ignition, brand new rotor, new
>  >> cap,
>  >> rebuilt starter, new alternator, new fuel pump, new wires, new head
>  > gasket.
>  >> I re-timed the distributor at the dock.
>  >>
>  >> When I took off the head, there was a lot of carbon built up, and Don
>  > Moyer
>  >> says overcooling can create that problem. I didn't want to take the
> time
>  > for
>  >> a valve job, which would probably have entailed pulling the engine,
> but
>  > they
>  >> were kind of dirty, although were functioning.
>  >
>  > Have you tried a compression test?  I'd do that (dry and wet) before
>  > assuming it's the valves.
>  >
>  >  - George
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