[Public-list] 78 Amp alternator/Atomic 4

[Mike Lehman]

The best additive I have ever used is a product called "Sea Foam" which is 
sold at NAPA in Annapolis. I use it in my GMC truck (260K miles) and running 
strong!



              Mike Lehman
><((((º>¸.·´¯`·...¸><((((º>





----Original Message Follows----
From: "C.B. Currier" <cbcurrier at spinrx.com>
Reply-To: cbcurrier at spinrx.com,Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all 
<public-list at alberg30.org>
To: "Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all" <public-list at alberg30.org>
Subject: RE: [Public-list] 78 Amp alternator/Atomic 4
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2004 12:27:45 -0400 (EDT)

Mike,
I too am not sure of Dry and wet other than,
when doing the compression test:
   1) Do with engine cold
   2) take all spark plugs off
   3) apply tester in all 4 cylinders in succession
   4) crank with starter once or twice should be enough
Cylinders should be dry. Meaning no Fuel or water in cylinder.
If the cylinders are wet then no big deal other than wet material may
change reading of compression a bit.

BTW:
  (new electronic ignition, brand new rotor, new cap,rebuilt starter, new
   alternator, new fuel pump, new wires, new head gasket.)
Unfortunately according to all of these things the only problem left is
either:
Bad valves or bad rings.
If you get a low compression reading on any of the cylinders consider an
alternative to ripping off the head again before going after the valves.

Consider applying a quart of or variation thereof of deep creep (not
marvel Mystery oil) to your fuel. This should help loosen things up & kick
off the deposits you have in the engine. It works a hundred times better
than MMO an other lubircants and you can purchase it at Nappa Annapolis,
it is the only product of this type they sell. Then run the motor for a
while. Also pour some into the cylinders to soak for a few days before
running.

Also you can evaluate your oil to see if you are burning off oil or if you
are getting fuel into the oil (this will indicate ring problems).

Power depreciation can come from poor alignment between the motor and the
shaft check this as well with a feeler gauge. I believe a really nice
minimum all around was .015 less is more better.

--
C.B. Currier
with 7 Atomic 4s
n More to Come

Meinhold, Michael J said:
 > George - I have been puzzling over this, but I can't come up with a
 > meaning
 > for "Dry and Wet" with respect to compression testing.
 >
 > Mike
 >
 > -----Original Message-----
 > From: public-list-bounces at alberg30.org
 > [mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org]On Behalf Of George Dinwiddie
 > Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 3:13 PM
 > To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
 > Subject: Re: [Public-list] 78 Amp alternator/Atomic 4
 >
 >
 > On Tue, Sep 07, 2004 at 02:17:33PM -0400, Meinhold, Michael J wrote:
 >> Chris, thanks, but it's now electronic ignition, brand new rotor, new
 >> cap,
 >> rebuilt starter, new alternator, new fuel pump, new wires, new head
 > gasket.
 >> I re-timed the distributor at the dock.
 >>
 >> When I took off the head, there was a lot of carbon built up, and Don
 > Moyer
 >> says overcooling can create that problem. I didn't want to take the time
 > for
 >> a valve job, which would probably have entailed pulling the engine, but
 > they
 >> were kind of dirty, although were functioning.
 >
 > Have you tried a compression test?  I'd do that (dry and wet) before
 > assuming it's the valves.
 >
 >  - George
 > _______________________________________________
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