[Public-list] Rudder Repair - New Method - Advice Welcome

[C.B. Currier]

I don't see why you would not use epoxy to repair fiberglass or wood
issues. On a little website at http://www.redrockstore.com/resin.htm I
found the following quote about epoxy vs vinylester resins.

"Quality epoxy resins stick to other materials with 2,000-p.s.i. vs. only
500-p.s.i. for vinylester resins and less for polyesters."

If you are going to repair the rudder definitely, definitely use epoxy.

As for the rest of the job, the boat is a tleast 30 years old. Repair the
failure to original spec. You cant loose by this route.

-- 
C.B. Currier
Infinity #57
Daybreak #458


Austin Meyermann said:
> Thank you for the congrats. We love the boat and she just needs a little
> bit of work.
>
> The sleeve would be 8.5" long and slid up over the stock. The vanes would
> run the length of the sleeve and then extend 6" out on either side of the
> rudder (sleeve and vanes would be bronze). I would then through bolt
> (offset) four times.
>
> The rudder is wood coated in fiberglass.
>
> The pins sheared at the point of connection with the stock. Supposedly
> they were bronze but I don't know.
>
> Mike Connelly mentioned that he would not trust an exopy resin due to the
> torque (with regard to adhereing the sleeve to the stock). I don't know
> enought to agree or disagree, but the torque would be displaced over the
> total area of the epoxy bond. If epoxy total covered the area between the
> stock and the sleeve, I would think there wouldn't be an issue.
>
> Your thoughts?
>
>
> Austin
>
> nwiddie <gdinwiddie at alberg30.org> wrote:
> First of all, congratulations on your new boat.
>
> As for the gudgeon, the originals were generally sand-cast bronze. If
> you look at http://www.alberg30.org/maintenance/Steering/Gudgeons/
> you'll see both a cast and a welded gudgeon. You can also machine one,
> but I think the best solution would be to have one cast. Phil Beigel
> has had rudder shoes cast and could tell you where you can get it done.
> In fact, it might be good to get a small supply cast at one time.
>
> As for the rudder stock, please describe your setup in more detail.
> Whitby has used a number of different arrangements over the years. A
> couple of these are mentioned in the Alberg 30 Maintenance Manual.
>
> Do you have a wooden or fiberglass rudder? Where are the pins that are
> sheared?
>
> I don't know of any A30's with zincs on the rudder. It's not normally a
> problem. Even the pin into the rudder shoe usually wears before it
> corrodes off.
>
> - George
>
> On Wed, Sep 29, 2004 at 07:08:41AM -0700, Austin Meyermann wrote:
>> Hello to all!
>>
>> I am the new owner of Inherit the Wind (formerly owned my Mike
>> McGovern). I bought her last May and sailed her from Green Point to
>> Young's Boatyard. On that note, that was my first time captaining a
>> sailboat, my only crew was a friend who had never sailed, and we got
>> into enough wind to take in a reef on the main! But what a day!! We had
>> a blast and she sailed great.
>>
>> I have sailed her most of this year with gear in marginal shape. I
>> figured that this year was my year to sail all that I could and I could
>> fix anything over winter.....well, I did not make it to winter.
>>
>> A month ago, I left my slip and was motoring down the channel when I
>> lost steerage. This resulted in a swim to shore, a tow from Phil (the
>> owner of Young's and a great guy), and a haul out.
>>
>> The 1/4" pins that attach the rudder stock to the rudder had sheared
>> (no zincs below the waterline). Additionally, the gudgeon that attaches
>> to pintle in the rudder was cracked...stainless steel bolts through the
>> bronze....again no zincs.
>>
>> So....this leaves me now with a fun project. Please advise on fixing the
>> gudgeon, I know these are not a off the shelf item (far from it). Should
>> I get a new one machined (don't want to because I think that it would
>> be expensive)?
>>
>> With regard to the other problem with the pins, I think that I have
>> a novel solution. I am going to install a sleeve (1.25" ID) over the
>> rudder stock (1.25" OD) and on that sleeve I am going to weld 2 vanes.
>> The
>> vanes will hug the rudder on both sides and I will cross bolt through
>> the
>> vanes and rudder. To attach the sleeve to the rudder stock, I will use
>> epoxy. The vans should displace the force over the length of the welded
>> on the sleeve and give superior strength to the traditional .25" pins.
>>
>> Any thoughts?
>>
>> I look forward to hearing from and meeting you all soon!!!
>>
>>
>> Austin & Lucy Meyermann #365 Inherit the Wind
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