[Public-list] rudder rebuild

[Lincoln Finkenberg]

To replace the hardware on the blade (other than bolts or pins) is difficult b/c they are not available off the shelf.  You can have them cast though.  Presumably the shoe is fine to re-use.  The pintle and gudgeon may have lost some of their strength over the years. The gudgeon was still on the keel when my rudder swam away and I thought it was pretty solid - but then again my rudder swam away. If you find out otherwise you can modify the rudder design using j24 stainless steel pintle/gudgeons versus getting casts made to make them from silicon bronze. If you go the later route I believe I can point you to some folks who can cast them - I think they quoted me $150-200 per.

 

Checkout: http://mysailingphotos.com/Members/Sabrina/Albums/Maintenance/RudderRepair/

he has some pics.

 

Not having had to remove my rudder - my guess on removal is as follows:  Remove the rudder shoe (5 bolts - two on each side and one aft - you’ll probably want to  replace these as these are potentially open to the elements). Remove the pintle - probably two separate straps that clamp onto a pin - but I really don't know for sure.  I believe you will need to remove the blade from the rudder stock - unless the boat is suspended up high in a sling.  To remove the blade - remove the 5 bolts from the part of the stock that attaches to the blade (near the top). You now have your blade.  You can also remove the rudder stock - by removing the hardware in the cockpit - essentially removing the tiller and h-bracket.  Now it may have just been me - but I also had to remove the prop - b/c the stock slid down right onto that @$# prop.

 

If you can salvage the existing rudder - its will save you a time and expense. If you can't I'd follow-up for suggestions on a brand new build.  Mike recommended Coosa as the core - which I should have gone with - but you can get bunzel multi-laminated okume (mahogany) plywood (two 3/4" thick pieces sandwiched make the blade) - okume cost about the same as coosa - but Coosa is lighter (they say a bit stronger - but either is plenty strong) and won't deteriorate when exposed to water.  Of course the mainsheet repair book has a good section on rudder repair you should look at.

 

I've got pics which I'm happy to share - just haven't downloaded them yet.

 

Fee free to drop a line 212-541-1213. 

Good luck - Linc.

 

I am seeking the assistance of anyone who has undertaken removal and 
rebuilding of Alberg 30 rudder. Specifically, I need info on the steps in 
removing the rudder from the boat; parts listing and 
availability(sources) if replacement is required; rebuilding techniques and materials to 
use; and anything else that you could share with me to facilitate the 
work. Pictures would also be appreciated if available. I plan to do a 
major refit of the boat this year(staying on the hard). So if you have 
any other info that you think might help me in my cause, I certainly 
would appreciate anything.
Thank you all!
Simon Croteau

 

		
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