[Public-list] Original gatevalve sizes

Gordon Laco mainstay at csolve.net
Sun Apr 3 13:34:51 PDT 2005


Hello again - 

I just read the rest of your message...

I went stainless steel for my valves with stainless and bronze for the hose
barbs.  I got the stainless ones from a commercial plumbing supplier who
serves industrial operations such as municipal water treatment plants.  They
make them in 316 in order to be able to deal with corrosive chemicals.

Brass is OK in fresh water but not good at all if you have ambitions of
going into salt water.

I looked at the through hulls carefully and made individual decisions as to
whether to keep particular ones or not.  Generally I threw out all the 3/8"
mostly because that is an obsolete diameter around here.  Three of my gate
valves were seized - very bad state of affairs, but will be set to rights
this spring.

Gord



> Thanks for taking the time to do this, Gord - what with being upside
> down, in wet snow and all!
> 
> The irony is that I'm doing the same job for the same reason.  You
> perchance also with Robertson & Robertson?  Must have mass-mailed the
> call for updated surveys.  (BTW, am I correct in assuming the survey is
> yet to be done?  Who are you lining up?  Perhaps we can get a twofer, or
> some such deal.)
> 
> Where did you source your ball-valves, thru-hulls, locking rings and/or
> nipples?  And, were you concerned about the bronze/brass issue?
> 
> I did some research in the alberg30.org archives and noted that Taylor
> Echlin (#612) had also gone through the experience recently ... with
> some interesting observations on the re-use of thru-hulls, backing
> plates and locking rings.
> http://www.alberg30.org/pipermail/public-list/2004-June/000531.html
> 
> Jack
> Aldabi KC641
> 
> Gordon Laco wrote:
> 
>> Hi Jack - 
>> 
>> I am in the middle of that job now.  I got a note from my marine insurer
>> that this year I need a survey so decided to bite the bullet and change over
>> from gate valves to ball valves.  Fairly horrible miserable job esp the
>> cockpit drains and the scupper hoses... Besides the little flim flam with
>> the changing diameter, we found that the ball cocks are taller than the gate
>> valves.  What that meant was cutting the longitudinal bulkhead to allow the
>> scupper hoses to come in at the right angle.  Then came the ordeal of trying
>> to push the hoses onto the new hose barbs while upside down in the cockpit
>> lockers, with wet snow falling on us.. Etc etc
>> 
>> But, the job had to be done.
>> 
>> Here is what was in my #426:
>> 
>> Engine cooling intake - 1/2"
>> 
>> Cockpit drains - 1" through hulls, but 1 1/4" hoses (did you hear cursing
>> coming from the north the day I discovered that?)
>> 
>> Sink intake - was 3/8", I changed it to 1/2" (that one was one of those
>> 'fake' through hulls Whitby used and I changed it)
>> 
>> Sink drain - 1" and I kept to that size
>> 
>> Head intake - was 3/8" and we went to 1/2"
>> 
>> Head overboard... Being a Great Lakes boat we don't have one of those.
>> 
>> Cheers - Gord #426 Suprise
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> Has anyone gone through a recent gate-valve to ball-valve/seacock
>>> conversion, i.e., from the original gate-valves on a liner-vintage A30
>>> (1977, 1978)?
>>> 
>>> My boat is about 500km/300mi from home, so I'd like to document the
>>> existing arrangement for planning/costing purposes while the water is
>>> still hard.
>>> 
>>> Aside from the engine discharge, what are the nominal sizes of the
>>> following original GATE-valves:
>>> Cockpit/deck drains
>>> Engine cooling intake
>>> Sink intake
>>> Sink discharge
>>> Heads intake
>>> Heads overboard discharge
>>> 
>>> Thanks
>>> 
>>> Jack
>>> Aldabi KC641
>>> 
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Public-list mailing list
>>> Public-list at alberg30.org
>>> http://alberg30.org/mailman/listinfo/public-list
>> 
>> 
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> 
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