[Public-list] Cockpit comings.

Wed Dec 21 06:41:56 PST 2005

John, sorry I forgot to tell you that the IPE has been on Janus for three
years.

-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Joel Lembo
Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2005 6:50 AM
To: 'Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all'
Subject: RE: [Public-list] Cockpit comings.

John, (Janus 449) is in Deltaville, Virginia. jl

-----Original Message-----
From: public-list-bounces at alberg30.org
[mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org] On Behalf Of JOHN GRAVES
Sent: Tuesday, December 20, 2005 9:41 PM
To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
Subject: Re: [Public-list] Cockpit comings.

Joel,
How long have you had the ipe on the boat and what geographical location are
you in?
John
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Joel Lembo<mailto:jlembo at scwwa.org> 
  To: 'Alberg 30 Public List -- open to
all'<mailto:public-list at alberg30.org> 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 20, 2005 6:53 AM
  Subject: RE: [Public-list] Cockpit comings.

  John, It worked out fine, the cost was considerably less than teak. It is
  hard and heavy but it will last and last. I cut the entire toe rail on
  curved to match the boat, no bending. I did use teak plugs which match
well.
  The rub rail is a double step with a small wear strip. I tried a few
methods
  for the topcoat oil, varnish but cetol seems to hold the best. This wood
is
  hard so there is little that get's into the pours. My son is also using
this
  on his Out Island 33. I have a rear seat area on the stern which has Ipe
as
  the seats this gets direct sun, again cetol holds better. Joel 

  -----Original Message-----
  From:
public-list-bounces at alberg30.org<mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org>
  [mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org] On Behalf Of JOHN GRAVES
  Sent: Monday, December 19, 2005 5:49 PM
  To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
  Subject: Re: [Public-list] Cockpit comings.

  Joel,
  How did the ipe work out? Did you finish it with anything? Has it faded or
  turned gray or cracked? I am really interested in this wood for boats. I
am
  in Brazil several times a year and I do some importing. I know a guy with
a
  sawmill and I spoke with him about it. He has several types of wood that
he
  believes will be used in the future as substitutes for teak and mahagony'
  etc. on boats. He said the ipe did not have long fibers and would not be
  great for strutural things because it may crack. I find it a very hard,
  heavy, and beautiful dark wood that seems to be strong. It is being used a
  lot on outdoor decks these days. Let me know what you think and how it has
  been holding up. A picture would be great if you could.
  Thanks,
  John (Trelawney #15)
    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: Joel Lembo<mailto:jlembo at scwwa.org<mailto:jlembo at scwwa.org>> 
    To: 'Alberg 30 Public List -- open to
  all'<mailto:public-list at alberg30.org<mailto:public-list at alberg30.org>> 
    Sent: Monday, December 19, 2005 3:15 PM
    Subject: RE: [Public-list] Cockpit comings.

    Try calling Ackerson-Stevens inc. in ware shoals, south Carolina.
    1-800-677-1617. They will ups. Ask for a product list. I used ipe for my
  toe
    rail and rub rail on 449. This is cheaper and harder than teak. Joel.

    -----Original Message-----
    From:

public-list-bounces at alberg30.org<mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org<mai
lto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org<mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org
>>
    [mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Mike Lehman
    Sent: Monday, December 19, 2005 10:18 AM
    To:
public-list at alberg30.org<mailto:public-list at alberg30.org<mailto:public-list@
alberg30.org<mailto:public-list at alberg30.org>>
    Subject: RE: [Public-list] Cockpit comings.

    Instead of plywood, why not consider some composite materials that are 
    impervious to water absorption. I think you would be very unhappy in a
few

    years with plywood coamings. Coosa board could be used as the core
  material 
    that you could fiberglass over and make new coamings that would be very 
    strong and last forever.

http://www.coosacomposites.com/<http://www.coosacomposites.com/<http://www.c
oosacomposites.com/<http://www.coosacomposites.com/>>

    Mike Lehman
    ~~~_/)_/)~~_/)~~~

    ----Original Message Follows----
    From: "Joe"
<jtokarz499 at myacc.net<mailto:jtokarz499 at myacc.net<mailto:jtokarz499 at myaccnet
<mailto:jtokarz499 at myacc.net>>>
    Reply-To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all

<public-list at alberg30.org<mailto:public-list at alberg30.org<mailto:public-list
@alberg30.org<mailto:public-list at alberg30.org>>>
    To: "'Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all'"

<public-list at alberg30.org<mailto:public-list at alberg30.org<mailto:public-list
@alberg30.org<mailto:public-list at alberg30.org>>>
    Subject: RE: [Public-list] Cockpit comings.
    Date: Sun, 18 Dec 2005 22:22:47 -0500

    I think I used Philippine Mahogany for most of my projects. I went into
    the nearest wood store and said, "Give me some Mahogany." I bought
    whatever was cheapest. When sanded and sealed with Cetol, you can hardly
    tell the difference. Everything wears well with Cetol.

    If you absolutely want to get rid the wood combings, then you might as
    well make new ones out of King Starboard. You can shape it easily with
    hand tools, and you'll never have to paint or glass over it. I think it
    comes in all kinds of colors. You could choose black, or maybe even
    blue.

    Or , if you're not a purist, you could make your combings out of sheet
    metal, or aluminum flashing. You might try a 1/4" thick piece of
    aluminum. You could drill different size holes in it to give it that
    space-age look. Then just buff it out each season. You could attach all
    kinds of things to it like extra blocks, or jacklines. Although it would
    be like sitting in a frying pan on a sunny day.

    -----Original Message-----
    From:

public-list-bounces at alberg30.org<mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org<mai
lto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org<mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org
>>
    [mailto:public-list-bounces at alberg30.org] On Behalf Of Jonathan
    Whittingham
    Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2005 9:23 PM
    To: Alberg 30 Public List -- open to all
    Subject: Re: [Public-list] Cockpit coamings.

    George Dinwiddie wrote:

     > Jonathan Whittingham wrote:
     >
     >>     1. The coamings are attached with bolts that "disappear" into
the

     >> space bewtween the deck and the underside of the locker. There
     >> appears to be a cavity in there that now has the nut that must have
     >> dropped off when I unscrewed the bolt. Hmmm! What recomendations for
     >> re-attachement? I am thinking about drilling say a one inch hole
from

     >> below into that cavity right where the horizontal hole will be to
     >> pull the new boards into place, so that I can slip a washer and nut
     >> in there.
     >
     >
     > I'm not sure what cavity you mean.  On Calypso, #543, the nuts are
     > mostly accessible by reaching up inside the locker.  There are a few
     > that were embedded in the layup, but not in a cavity.

         Well. George, trust me on this one. It would appear that there is
    indeed a second layup from the hull to the topside of the cockpit sides,

    thus creating a cavity and my lost nuts.

     >
     >>    2. I am considering rebuilding the coamings out of marine grade
     >> plywood and fibreglassing them before installing them. Aside from
     >> possible aesthetic protests from the purist faction, what opinions
     >> about this method?  Any other suggestions.
     >
     >
     > Having used glassed plywood to make some El Toro rudders, I think
     > you'll find that much more work than doing the job right with a
     > board.  If the cost of teak or mahogany is what's giving you pause, I
     > would fall back on "Chesapeake Teak" (pressure treated yellow pine)
     > before plywood.  You might also find that you can rejuvenate the
     > original coamings with a little ingenuity.

             Actually, after seeing the splits I have concludede that
    plywood, whilst I agree the extra work is, well, extra, that the plywood

    will be a whole lot stronger as long as it retains water repulsion.
    However what kind of Mahogany are you proposing? On theWest Coast
    purpleheart is gaining some popularity as a replacement for teak. I am
    told that it wears the elements just about as well, probably better than

    Mahogany and costs a fraction of teak. Regards Jonathan

     >
     >  - George
     >

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